ignition switch replacement

[januwan]

Last Thursday I replaced the third ignition switch on my 97 850NA. I could not move from Park to Drive unless I rotated the key counter-clock slightly. After the replacement, I couldn't start the car. The starter was spinning but the engine didn't fire. I used the URO switch and thought this was the problem. Today, I got a Volvo one but the problem is the same. Before the replacement, the car was starting fine. It looks like there is no spark. Any idea what is wrong?
Any suggestion is greatly appreciated.

[Clemens]

A 97 could have the antitheft transponder in the key and a matching receiver ring near the ignition switch.
This could cause a no spark.
A European 96 upwards definitely has the transponder key, the US got them a bit later afaik.

[scot850]

Most cars here in North America did not get them until 99 model year. I have come across the odd car which had it a year earlier, but I believe these were personal imports which had Euro specs. In Canada the 97 850 AWD did have the chip. So I think it is unlikely you have one but to be sure can you post a picture of your key and the ignition barrel where the key goes in.

Have you done the basic alarm system reset by locking and unlocking the the driver's door manually?

When you were swapping the barrels, was the battery disconnected?

Neil.

[januwan]

I did not replace the cylinder lock, just the ignition switch, and yes the battery was disconnected. The car does not have an antitheft transponder. It's a basic model with automatic transmission. I looked at the distributor cap and there was a lot of carbon build-up. I ordered a new one (I'm still on the original) to eliminate one variable. It would be an exceptional coincidence if it failed just at the same time I was replacing the ignition switch.

[scot850]

I agree, that would be a coincidence. Are you sure it is just carbon build up and there is not oil residue from a leaking cam seal? If you are replacing the cap, do the rotor arm as well.

Neil.

[januwan]

No, it's not an oil. I replaced the seal a few years back. And, yes I ordered both. There was some kind of erosion on the rotor contact.

[scot850]

You do get a certain amount of corrosion (green color) on the contacts. Just clean it off. I use a small flat screwdriver to crape the inner face on the contacts to clean them off. A very gentle rub with fine sandpaper on the face of the rotor arm tip will clean that up.

If you are seeing erosion or pitting on the faces it may possibly be an issue with the coil sending too much voltage.

Neil

[BEJinFbk]

Sounds like you were trying to fix the shifter.
FWIW, the shift lock is connected to the mechanical
portion of the ignition switch, not the electrical.
That's a whole different issue that's covered by
numerous posts in this forum.

But -
When you unplugged the ignition switch,
did you leave the plastic contact retainer
cap on the electrical connector, or did all
of the contacts fall out and come loose?

And if they did get loose, is it possible that
not all of them made it back onto the
right pins? That could cause your
current No Start problem.
.

Screen Shot 2024-03-04 at 6.45.52 PM.png (118.23 KiB) Viewed 515 times

.
Just a thought.

[januwan]

I think your thought is good. I unplugged the black plastic retainer (on the left side of your diagram) and then unscrewed two screws. When I was removing the ignition switch (the part with pins) it fell apart. The black portion of the switch was separated from the silver housing.
It is too late to check now but tomorrow I will check if there is anything foreign in the retainer cavities.

[januwan]

The new distributor cap did not help. I also checked the cavities in the plastic retainer nothing was there, very nice and shiny.
What else can I check before I tow the car?