2000 S70 New shift bushing but still can’t grab gears

[foggydogg]

The bushings on the transmission end of the cables were pretty soft when new - to keep vibration down I suspect - and the years are not kind to rubber parts on cars. Robert fixed his in place instead of running new cables.
I bought a ten pack a while ago, but available as singles too.
www.amazon.com/8x22x7-Rubber-Sealed-Bea ... 50&sr=8-13

[foggydogg]

And if you haven't done so already, subscribing to his Y/T channel helps him a little bit on the algorithm side of things. He said the other day that one of his vids that took an hour or 2 to film, edit and post and had an average number of views for his content netted him a check for $5. In some markets that can buy a cup of coffee.

[tjmartin317]

New photos for you Neil of the rear bushing:

6EAF566F-AD36-4065-9F20-5FDF87B1483F.jpeg (554.01 KiB) Viewed 430 times

FBF06505-1E41-44C4-A77A-356354745E21.jpeg (585.74 KiB) Viewed 430 times

Feels SUPER crusty at the top. I’m guessing a new one will help get the engine raised a little and back into place?

Also discovered that a previous owner, at some point, disconnected some hoses and took emissions into their own hands:

B59F4D1D-1DA6-436F-AEA0-4D93A78F546C.jpeg (513.35 KiB) Viewed 430 times

Looks like something is supposed to be plugged into that nipple there, but oh well.

[tjmartin317]

The bushings on the transmission end of the cables were pretty soft when new - to keep vibration down I suspect - and the years are not kind to rubber parts on cars.

This is the first thing I tried, replacing it with new stainless steel bushings. Helped a bit but not enough. This was actually the first thing that clued me into having a different shift cable system, because after numerous attempts and sources, the skateboard bearings he recommended were far too small. SNABB performance made the ones I needed and they fit like a glove!

[foggydogg]

The bushings on the transmission end of the cables were pretty soft when new - to keep vibration down I suspect - and the years are not kind to rubber parts on cars.

This is the first thing I tried, replacing it with new stainless steel bushings. Helped a bit but not enough. This was actually the first thing that clued me into having a different shift cable system, because after numerous attempts and sources, the skateboard bearings he recommended were far too small. SNABB performance made the ones I needed and they fit like a glove!

All my fleet are pre-'00, so that could be the difference in cable design from the 850 era cars. Looks like you're working your way through the checklist; I've not had the pleasure of splitting one of these cases yet, but I have a dim memory of Robert having to deal with the nylon or other hard plastic face on the forks on a client's car. I don't think subframe bushings can flex enough to have a big impact on shifter travel. Some folks swear by the C70 brace to stiffen up handling. I have one, and it didn't help, but to be fair it is still sitting in the corner of the shop.

[tjmartin317]

If the mounts don’t fix it and it’s all internal, that’ll be a bit of a nightmare… would like for that not to be the case, as that takes the car out of commission for far longer than I’d like it to be…

[scot850]

The bolt should self cut the thread into it. You have to use a little downward force. Otherwise you need a steel self thread cutting bolt.

That kit you have from Amazon, does it fit? It does not list P80's as an option??

Yes you can fit the mounts in a day.

For the crank mount, first make sure you can loosen the 2 bolts from the engine block. They can seize in place so soak with penetrating oil.

For fitting the front and rear cone mounts.

Disconnect the bolt for the top torque mount and lower mount and disconnect the lower torque mount

Raise the car on axle stands and remove the RHF wheel.

Place a floor jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood between them to spread the load. Jack the motor until you feel some resistance and then loosen the 2 bolts into the engine on the crank pulley mount. Just crack them loose for now, but remove the 2 bolts for the mount to the top of the subframe. This is so while you work on the front and rear mount should the jack fail the motor won't fall.

Now you have to work on the front and rear mounts. The rear is a pain to access but other than the locating tab on the top is not terrible.

Front mount is les accessible. May find it easier to remove the mount brackets and not just the mount.

Last mount to do is the crank mount and then fit the lower torque mount and finally put the bolt back in the upper torque mount.

There are torque values for all the mounts. I don't have those to hand just now.

Neil.

[tjmartin317]

You’re right, that won’t fit, it’s for the later models… still, as soon as they show up, I’ll get a free return from Amazon and my money back, so no real loss.

Ordered a correct set of the front and rear motor mounts. I’m just going to have to hope the pulley mount I got from FCP is 1.) going to work (looks exactly the same as mine but fitment is only up to 1998) and 2.) it gets here by Friday…

Very grateful for your extensive step by step guide! Will be following it quite religiously on Saturday!

[scot850]

Yes, unfortunately there is a chassis break on the crank pulley mount but it may be for different models. It looks like IPD lists the same mount for 98-00 S70:

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5930/En ... 1698-Volvo

Neil

[tjmartin317]

The IPD and FCP niners are the same except IPD has 8631698 - 108177 instead of just the part number…