WTB Manual (M56) Shift Cables for 2000 S70 (Bastard).

[MoVolvos]

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Since you have a NA the cable used IS INDEED the crossed like unit with no clips or attachment points except for the firewall bracket #20 in the center!

https://usparts.volvocars.com/a/Volvo_2 ... 71209.html
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2000 M56 NA.png (445.49 KiB) Viewed 377 times

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The video shows the ties doing some binding as the cable moves fore and aft. The front tie is too tight so keeping back tie from perhaps more forward movement. The second tie is also bunching up the outer covering as it tries to move forward. You can see the spacing or lengthening when the cable is moving backwards. He is having intermittent trouble with that last little bit of forward motion so every little restriction could be causing the problem.

As for the ties they should not be used as the hole shows no sign of having been anything attached and neither does the Volvo diagram. The rust and dirt is consistent with no indentation from a bracket or bolt.

I would remove the cable and soak it transmission fluid and blow it out with compressed air from any opening you can find.
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Binding 1.png (993.24 KiB) Viewed 377 times

Binding 2.png (920.86 KiB) Viewed 377 times

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Lastly, I'm wondering if it's solid cable in a cover in some sections with a twisted strand wiring sheathing and covering in another. Perhaps opening the accordion cover will show if indeed it's solid. The (rusting) stranded wire cabling could be to provide smoother movement of a solid cable inside of it without kinking. The cable coming into the accordion cover seems thinner than the section with the rust and broken outer covering. The video didn't show whether the rusted cable actually moved forward or back with the shift.
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S70 Cable Sizing 1.png (1.25 MiB) Viewed 377 times

S70 Cable Sizing 2.png (1.04 MiB) Viewed 377 times

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[abscate]

I’m still trying to locate my 2000 cables upstate. Will ping you when I do. Up there on the 18th

[s70t5ing]

I have a set.

[tjmartin317]

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I'm wondering if it's solid cable in a cover in some sections with a twisted strand wiring sheathing and covering in another. Perhaps opening the accordion cover will show if indeed it's solid. The (rusting) stranded wire cabling could be to provide smoother movement of a solid cable inside of it without kinking. The cable coming into the accordion cover seems thinner than the section with the rust and broken outer covering. The video didn't show whether the rusted cable actually moved forward or back with the shift.

First and foremost, THANK YOU for such a thorough analysis. I haven’t been on the forum in a week or two due to many life things, but as finally starting to find time to fiddle with this old thing.

I’ll say that, while the video doesn’t show it, the cable boots do stretch and contract just fine. But I don’t know if that rusted section moves on its own or not. Would make sense to me if it was a solid sheath that prevents binding. And in the area where it does dramatically bind, it would make sense if it was no longer one continuous sheath

Working theory is that, if I prevent the dramatic binding, I’ll get my shifting back. So I’m going to graft together some form of a brace around the cables (either individually or together) using PCV pipe and zip ties, eliminating the ones that you see in the photos and backwards. This would act as a sheath so the cables keep their shape, but look more like a shitty exoskeleton. And the zip ties don’t allow for forward or backward movement, you’re right, so using something like the pcv instead might. Though the car didn’t shift without them in the first place.

Astute observation about that “bracket hole.” Makes total sense that if there’s no markings there shouldn’t be one.

If I can get actual cables from some of the good folks on this site then those will go in. But in the process I’ll yank these out, study them a little more carefully, and see if I can make heads or tails of the design. That way, creating a cottage shed version becomes a doable thing. Just don’t want to dissect and accidentally destroy the only “decent” cables I have access to.

[MoVolvos]

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I'm wondering if it's solid cable in a cover in some sections with a twisted strand wiring sheathing and covering in another. Perhaps opening the accordion cover will show if indeed it's solid. The (rusting) stranded wire cabling could be to provide smoother movement of a solid cable inside of it without kinking. The cable coming into the accordion cover seems thinner than the section with the rust and broken outer covering. The video didn't show whether the rusted cable actually moved forward or back with the shift.

First and foremost, THANK YOU for such a thorough analysis. I haven’t been on the forum in a week or two due to many life things, but as finally starting to find time to fiddle with this old thing.

I’ll say that, while the video doesn’t show it, the cable boots do stretch and contract just fine. But I don’t know if that rusted section moves on its own or not. Would make sense to me if it was a solid sheath that prevents binding. And in the area where it does dramatically bind, it would make sense if it was no longer one continuous sheath

Working theory is that, if I prevent the dramatic binding, I’ll get my shifting back. So I’m going to graft together some form of a brace around the cables (either individually or together) using PCV pipe and zip ties, eliminating the ones that you see in the photos and backwards. This would act as a sheath so the cables keep their shape, but look more like a shitty exoskeleton. And the zip ties don’t allow for forward or backward movement, you’re right, so using something like the pcv instead might. Though the car didn’t shift without them in the first place.

Astute observation about that “bracket hole.” Makes total sense that if there’s no markings there shouldn’t be one.

If I can get actual cables from some of the good folks on this site then those will go in. But in the process I’ll yank these out, study them a little more carefully, and see if I can make heads or tails of the design. That way, creating a cottage shed version becomes a doable thing. Just don’t want to dissect and accidentally destroy the only “decent” cables I have access to.

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Hope you can get it going meanwhile before securing a set of cables. Start by cutting ties with those ties to see if it improves. Next, if possible lightly remove a little of the rust around the compromised sheath / covering. See if silicone spray can penetrate. If so massage in some silicone grease. Perhaps that area has enough rust inside to cause the intermittent binding. Unless it easy I wouldn't remove the cable just yet in case something happens and the car is put out of commission. However, proceed as you see fit as I'm not familiar with the cabling or spacing in that area.
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