2004 XC70 no start - faulty fuel pump and/or electrical connections? Topic is solved

Post by **jonesg** » 30 Sep 2023, 04:18

I repaired that leak 5 years ago with success but you're better off replacing the pump at this point.
the leak was bad but never prevented a start.

another possible location for the pem is passenger footwell behind the kick panel near the door hinge.

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 30 Sep 2023, 06:11

jonesg wrote: 30 Sep 2023, 04:18 I repaired that leak 5 years ago with success but you're better off replacing the pump at this point.
the leak was bad but never prevented a start.

another possible location for the pem is passenger footwell behind the kick panel near the door hinge.

Did you do the JB-Weld marine epoxy repair (shown here viewtopic.php?t=91717) with success? Could be a temporary fix until replacement.

Post by **jonesg** » 30 Sep 2023, 15:01

yes, jb weld worked for me, scrupulously clean with brake cleaner, don't scuff or sand the plastic.
allow 24 hrs to fully cure.

goldxc70 · Post by **goldxc70** » 01 Oct 2023, 23:39

abscate wrote: 22 Sep 2023, 17:42 I think it is a metal vs plastic parts split for the PEM on the early P2s

My 04 has plastic tank and no PEM.

goldxc70 · Post by **goldxc70** » 01 Oct 2023, 23:43

enotslim wrote: 29 Sep 2023, 23:44 ...
My question here is: could this leak be related to the failure to start that began this thread? Or are they just coincidental? The leak is recent so I don’t think it’s a direct cause. Could failed starts and the leak be related to some underlying issue?

The pump will be replaced soon regardless.

I started to smell gas in the car weeks before my pump problem showed itself. When I did remove the old pump, there was nothing to suggest how the gas smell got into the car. I seem to remember reading on some forum that a smell of gas in the car was an indication of a failing fuel pump.

Post by **jonesg** » 02 Oct 2023, 00:33

nylon expands and contracts more than metal.
the pump still pumps but leaks out the cracked top plate.
after 20 years its probably near worn out anyway, if mine leaks again I'll replace it.

Post by **abscate** » 02 Oct 2023, 03:27

enotslim wrote: 29 Sep 2023, 23:44 OP Update: Car continues to start without fail. Changed fuel filter 2 weeks ago. An initial hesitation when starting persisted for several days, long after the fuel line should have been fully primed. I thought this was odd but it always started. Starting is now back to normal. However, I soon noticed a fuel smell in interior. Discovered the top of the fuel pump is leaking. I am pursuing replacement by a dealer under the recall for this failure (NHTSA PE09-039, see also viewtopic.php?t=25517&start=10) but without much hope for success dono's despite experience recounted at the link. I will install a new fuel pump myself if the dealer won’t do it under recall.

My question here is: could this leak be related to the failure to start that began this thread? Or are they just coincidental? The leak is recent so I don’t think it’s a direct cause. Could failed starts and the leak be related to some underlying issue?

The pump will be replaced soon regardless.

I am going to say a strong no here. Remember you had the top of the pump under inspection for wiring problems up thread, if you lost enough fuel pressure for a no start due to leaking, you would have been working in raw gas at that time

enotslim · Post by **enotslim** » 20 Apr 2024, 18:11

Finally! After 6 months of prefect behavior the car finally failed to start yesterday, with very strong cranking, reproducing the issue that initiated this thread. In my driveway with the tank half full. Removed the rear seat and fuel pump electrical plug to discover the pump is receiving a ~1-second 12-volt burst (actually 11.8 V) at ignition - but doesn't pump. Simplifies things enormously.

However, and oddly, cruise control also stopped working on Tuesday, numerous codes are now present that were not there last week, and I saw for the first time ever the message "IMMOBILIZER SEE MANUAL". (Two different keys that both worked last week now fail to start.)

Current new codes:
ECM-9400 Brake pedal sensor: Signal too high
ECM-4007 EVAP system ; Signal too low
REM-8D11 High mounted stop lamp ; Faulty signal
BCM-0012 Wheel sensor, left front ; Mechanical error
BCM-0011 Wheel sensor, left front ; Faulty signal
BCM-0103 Pedal position sensor ; Faulty signal
BCM-0065 Stop (brake) lamp switch ; Signal outside its permitted range
CCM-0021 Air quality sensor ; Internal fault

Are all these errors/codes just coincidental? I don't think they're real. Is it possible that some electrical aberration disabled several components/systems, including the fuel pump itself, in a reversible manner? I ask because I had numerous unexplainable codes during previous no-start episodes but I have had none for months (without fixing anything relevant to the codes). And now everything "fails" all at once. The fuel pump failure has been reversible through 3 or 4 cycles of this stuff.

During the past six months I've had explainable codes for the headlight level sensor and a blown headlight ballast. Both conditions were repaired/replaced, codes cleared and I was code-free. A code for left front ABS resolved when I fixed a leak in the exhaust flex pipe. That was a strange association/coincidence but the ABS error remains gone. Otherwise I've been code-free until this week when the fuel pump failed and everything else above happened.

Removing the pump now seems inevitable but I don't want to replace it and have the same failure occur. Is there some component of the pump (disassembled) I can examine for reversible failure?

Finally, is there some way to remove fuel from the half-full tank so it doesn't spill when the fuel pump is removed. Dealers must have a way to prevent spillage.

Thanks.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 20 Apr 2024, 18:24

You can empty some/most? fuel tanks using a small tube into the fuel filler tube. The tube must be about 3/8 inch or smaller to get it worked past the anti syphon flapper in the tube. If it gets stuck, twist, push and pull to work it loose. A hard nylon tube has worked best for me. Soft rubber will not get to the bottom of the tank. You will not be able to see where the tube goes, so you must twist and push the tube until you can pump out fuel.
There are small hand crank pumps that work, but are slow. You could also set up an electric replacement fuel pump to do the work of pumping out of the filler tube.
volvolugnut

Post by **erikv11** » 21 Apr 2024, 19:41

I use this cheap siphon rig, works well on P2 cars (S60, V70, XC70 01-07). Just did an S60 fuel pump with it this weekend. The nylon tubing I just had laying around, not sure the dimensions, but 7/16 OD x 1/4 ID is close. With the tubing cut to an angle on the input end, the point slips right past the flapper mentioned by volvolugnut.