What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[kcodyjr]

Did you do a write up or use another link somewhere for reference? If so can you provide that?

I followed this guide.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/refur ... lvo-turbo/

The header paint was my idea. I also ran a tap through all the holes, and ran a die down all the bolts. That's an aftermarket WG actuator that I found on ebay. I opted to replace all the studs and nuts. I went aftermarket (FCP) for that because there's just no good reason to use that kryptonite alloy the originals were made of. I had to drill one out and it really sucked.

I don't recommend using a dishwasher for the parts clean step, both because heat plus water plus iron bad mmmkay, and because most wives aren't that forgiving. In fact, if I tried that, she'd do things that would be on the 6:00 news. I immersed the parts in gasoline, then wiped them down with acetone.

The only internal parts that got reused, were the turbine+shaft, and the compressor wheel.

[P80GLT]

It's been 5+ weeks since I was last out in Kära so today I visited a mate and then went for a drive to blow away the cobwebs. In a couple of weeks time she will be 19 years old and I have to say for an 'old burd' she can still put a smile on my face when the loud pedal is pressed, that 5 cylinder turbo engine is addictive.

I downloaded a GPS speedometer app to my phone to see how accurate the speedometer was and it seems to be 2mph slow at 50mph and around 3mph slow at 70mph and 'presumably' a little more inaccurate when 3 figures are achieved which is all good to know with all the cameras that are watching our every move nowadays...

Once home I vacuumed the interior and she was put back into her bed

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[hiroku]

The speedo on my 2001 reads about 10% faster than the actual GPS-measured speed. It's weird because AFAIR the wheels and tires currently on the car are the factory original ones according to VIDA.
I guess that makes the car seem faster, which is a good thing?

[kcodyjr]

Finished reinstalling my hand-rebuilt turbo, all four coolant and oil lines, crank down on the turbo-to-manifold nuts, and ready to install the new cheap aftermarket downpipe.

Of course, this was an epic display of contortionism and profanity, considering I was replacing the coolant hoses and didn't remove the angle gear. Getting the lower supply line back on and clamped would have netted a small fortune if I kept a swear jar, which is exactly why I don't.

Catback and intake piping boostability kit still pending from IPD. It'll be on the blocks awhile longer.

[erikv11]

Cleaned the throttle body on the 06 S60 R. It threw a throttle body code and ran poorly back in May, finally had the car here to work on it. I can't tell if it runs better now but the TB was pretty dirty, I cleaned it up quite a bit. Don't think it had ever been done. At least it won't likely throw another code on my daughter.

As a guide I used this excellent post from Swedespeed: https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/how- ... ng.550426/. Replaced the gasket with a Volvo branded one, raised side up. The electrical connector to the TB was very difficult to remove but otherwise this was a super straightforward job, about 4 hours in total working slowly and cleaning up the engine bay as I went.

Also the car came in with a burnt out daytime running light (9006 bulb). Turned out the connector socket was fried in the + end. I had to replace the socket with a generic one from O'Reilly's.

[br0dy519]

Also the car came in with a burnt out daytime running light (9006 bulb). Turned out the connector socket was fried in the + end. I had to replace the socket with a generic one from O'Reilly's.

I picked up some ceramic sockets a while ago off ebay... been putting off installing them for 2 years mine are all mangled and half are just the female spade connectors left no plastic...

[erikv11]

Also the car came in with a burnt out daytime running light (9006 bulb). Turned out the connector socket was fried in the + end. I had to replace the socket with a generic one from O'Reilly's.

I picked up some ceramic sockets a while ago off ebay... been putting off installing them for 2 years mine are all mangled and half are just the female spade connectors left no plastic...

I actually did use ceramic from the FLAPS.

I was wondering if I could just replace the bulb and safely use the burnt/mangled connector for now, that's good to know. Decided I probably better fix it since this is currently my daughter's car and she lives six hours away.

[br0dy519]

My ceramic sockets have pigtail wire ends. Consensus is it necessary to solder/heatshrink these connections or would a simple crimp butt connector work ?

[kcodyjr]

My ceramic sockets have pigtail wire ends. Consensus is it necessary to solder/heatshrink these connections or would a simple crimp butt connector work ?

If you don't want to solder and heatshrink itself, use "Heat Shrink Solder Sleeve Butt Connectors" (just search Amazon for that). It does it all in one step with a cigarette lighter.

I'd be concerned about moisture getting into it, PLUS the fact that I just don't like crimp connectors.

[ZionXIX]

My ceramic sockets have pigtail wire ends. Consensus is it necessary to solder/heatshrink these connections or would a simple crimp butt connector work ?

If you don't want to solder and heatshrink itself, use "Heat Shrink Solder Sleeve Butt Connectors" (just search Amazon for that). It does it all in one step with a cigarette lighter.

I'd be concerned about moisture getting into it, PLUS the fact that I just don't like crimp connectors.

Yea this is what I used for my ceramic pigtails. The heatshrink solder connectors are so easy to use. No crimping needed. Just heat.