Brakes problem, lots of parts changed

[firstv70volvo]

The reason I asked about the master cylinder or brake booster replacement is that if either of these parts are replaced the brake booster push rod length adjustment must be checked. If out of adjustment and the rod length is too long the master cylinder will be compressed some and can cause the brakes to drag. If the problem didn't immediately show up after these parts were replaced then that's not the problem. I think you're going to need to check each wheel for a dragging brake. Could be a mechanical problem such as the caliper is not sliding freely on the caliper pins or emergency brakes not releasing. I don't think the brake problem would be with the abs module causing the problem but, if you find one wheel with the brakes dragging and no obvious mechanical problems you could loosen the bleed screw to see if there's residual hydraulic pressure but I would think this would be a long shot.
The brake pedal travel sensor issue happened to me and others, it's usually due to a bad solder connection within the sensor. They can be repaired but safer to replace this part on the brake booster.

[kontad]

The reason I asked about the master cylinder or brake booster replacement is that if either of these parts are replaced the brake booster push rod length adjustment must be checked. If out of adjustment and the rod length is too long the master cylinder will be compressed some and can cause the brakes to drag. If the problem didn't immediately show up after these parts were replaced then that's not the problem. I think you're going to need to check each wheel for a dragging brake. Could be a mechanical problem such as the caliper is not sliding freely on the caliper pins or emergency brakes not releasing. I don't think the brake problem would be with the abs module causing the problem but, if you find one wheel with the brakes dragging and no obvious mechanical problems you could loosen the bleed screw to see if there's residual hydraulic pressure but I would think this would be a long shot.
The brake pedal travel sensor issue happened to me and others, it's usually due to a bad solder connection within the sensor. They can be repaired but safer to replace this part on the brake booster.

Thanks for spending your time writing your response sir. When my mechanic changed the brake booster and master cylinder nothing changed at all, so I think that was not the problem. Did you had simptons in your bad brake pedal travel sensor?

I just connected the diagnosis machine again and the brakes are not blocked anymore, but they are soft like in the beginning, so I changed one problem for another again :/ I didn’t touch any adjustment on the VIDA machine because I don’t find anything to adjust as my car don’t have dstc. For this reason I think that it’s not mechanical, it seems like the computer is trying to self adjust the brakes but definitely is not being able to adjust them correctly… I am not an expert so if I am saying something crazy please tell me

[firstv70volvo]

The reason I asked about the master cylinder or brake booster replacement is that if either of these parts are replaced the brake booster push rod length adjustment must be checked. If out of adjustment and the rod length is too long the master cylinder will be compressed some and can cause the brakes to drag. If the problem didn't immediately show up after these parts were replaced then that's not the problem. I think you're going to need to check each wheel for a dragging brake. Could be a mechanical problem such as the caliper is not sliding freely on the caliper pins or emergency brakes not releasing. I don't think the brake problem would be with the abs module causing the problem but, if you find one wheel with the brakes dragging and no obvious mechanical problems you could loosen the bleed screw to see if there's residual hydraulic pressure but I would think this would be a long shot.
The brake pedal travel sensor issue happened to me and others, it's usually due to a bad solder connection within the sensor. They can be repaired but safer to replace this part on the brake booster.

Thanks for spending your time writing your response sir. When my mechanic changed the brake booster and master cylinder nothing changed at all, so I think that was not the problem. Did you had simptons in your bad brake pedal travel sensor?

I just connected the diagnosis machine again and the brakes are not blocked anymore, but they are soft like in the beginning, so I changed one problem for another again :/ I didn’t touch any adjustment on the VIDA machine because I don’t find anything to adjust as my car don’t have dstc. For this reason I think that it’s not mechanical, it seems like the computer is trying to self adjust the brakes but definitely is not being able to adjust them correctly… I am not an expert so if I am saying something crazy please tell me

The symptom I had when the brake travel sensor went bad is that I lost cruise control and had a code but can't recall what it was. There's nothing in the brake system that self-adjusts the brake as far as I know. Soft pedal is typically the result of air in the system or too much travel due a mechanical issue such as a binding caliper slide pin or incorrectly installed front caliper springs.

[kontad]

The reason I asked about the master cylinder or brake booster replacement is that if either of these parts are replaced the brake booster push rod length adjustment must be checked. If out of adjustment and the rod length is too long the master cylinder will be compressed some and can cause the brakes to drag. If the problem didn't immediately show up after these parts were replaced then that's not the problem. I think you're going to need to check each wheel for a dragging brake. Could be a mechanical problem such as the caliper is not sliding freely on the caliper pins or emergency brakes not releasing. I don't think the brake problem would be with the abs module causing the problem but, if you find one wheel with the brakes dragging and no obvious mechanical problems you could loosen the bleed screw to see if there's residual hydraulic pressure but I would think this would be a long shot.
The brake pedal travel sensor issue happened to me and others, it's usually due to a bad solder connection within the sensor. They can be repaired but safer to replace this part on the brake booster.

Thanks for spending your time writing your response sir. When my mechanic changed the brake booster and master cylinder nothing changed at all, so I think that was not the problem. Did you had simptons in your bad brake pedal travel sensor?

I just connected the diagnosis machine again and the brakes are not blocked anymore, but they are soft like in the beginning, so I changed one problem for another again :/ I didn’t touch any adjustment on the VIDA machine because I don’t find anything to adjust as my car don’t have dstc. For this reason I think that it’s not mechanical, it seems like the computer is trying to self adjust the brakes but definitely is not being able to adjust them correctly… I am not an expert so if I am saying something crazy please tell me

The symptom I had when the brake travel sensor went bad is that I lost cruise control and had a code but can't recall what it was. There's nothing in the brake system that self-adjusts the brake as far as I know. Soft pedal is typically the result of air in the system or too much travel due a mechanical issue such as a binding caliper slide pin or incorrectly installed front caliper springs.

I understand but the thing is that I spend months with the exact same feel in the brake pedal, it wasn’t till I connected the VIDA machine where the brakes changed and the ABS yellow check light appeared on the dashborad :/

I checked the caliper springs and they were bad installed on the rear wheels (I already corrected that) but fine on the front ones, will re check again.

[cmayo1]

Kontad, did you ever find a solution?

[jonesg]

every time I connect VIDA the ABS light comes on.
When I disconnect vida it goes off.