Hello,
I have a 2002 V70 X/C (lifted) with a coolant hose leak.
The hose in question is maybe 6 inches long, and looks to go from the thermostat housing to the intake manifold. (?!) I have been unable to find this hose on any coolant diagram.
1. Is my routing of the hose correct?
2. What should this hose be called?
3. How the h… do you get in there to replace it? I’m seeing the power steering pump coming off, but that still leaves one of those crimp clamps to remove, and no space to get to it. Please don’t tell me the intake manifold has to come off to replace this little hose. How do you undue these crimp clamps?
Thanks. Any volunteers? Champaign IL.
V70 X/C Coolant Hose Leak
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cn90
- Posts: 8249
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- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
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You probably have over 200K miles?
I recently replaced the Tstat. All tricks are there in the link below, incl the T40 socket. I undid the PS Pump and Alternator to avoid removing the I.M.
Use a tiny screwdriver and gently spread the Oetiker clamp to remove it.
Time to replace Tstat too (Wahler: Germany vs Facet: Italy).
The hose itself, just find the correct heater hose (what size is it).
Also, replace the banjo bolt too!
viewtopic.php?t=83473&start=20
The whole system has a 2 banjo connectors. The tstat side has heater hoses on both sides of the banjo bolt. Hopefully, it only leaks at the Tstat side...
See photo below...
---
I recently replaced the Tstat. All tricks are there in the link below, incl the T40 socket. I undid the PS Pump and Alternator to avoid removing the I.M.
Use a tiny screwdriver and gently spread the Oetiker clamp to remove it.
Time to replace Tstat too (Wahler: Germany vs Facet: Italy).
The hose itself, just find the correct heater hose (what size is it).
Also, replace the banjo bolt too!
viewtopic.php?t=83473&start=20
The whole system has a 2 banjo connectors. The tstat side has heater hoses on both sides of the banjo bolt. Hopefully, it only leaks at the Tstat side...
See photo below...
---
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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MoVolvos
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.cn90 wrote: ↑24 Oct 2024, 06:53 You probably have over 200K miles?
I recently replaced the Tstat. All tricks are there in the link below, incl the T40 socket. I undid the PS Pump and Alternator to avoid removing the I.M.
Use a tiny screwdriver and gently spread the Oetiker clamp to remove it.
Time to replace Tstat too (Wahler: Germany vs Facet: Italy).
The hose itself, just find the correct heater hose (what size is it).
Also, replace the banjo bolt too!
viewtopic.php?t=83473&start=20
The whole system has a 2 banjo connectors. The tstat side has heater hoses on both sides of the banjo bolt. Hopefully, it only leaks at the Tstat side...
See photo below...
---
Screenshot_20241024-074756.png
It's been awhile so have forgotten as I've only replaced one PCV and it was in 2012 on a 98 S70 T5. Are P2's so different that you have to undo the PS Pump and Alternator? What is the I.M.?
.
Blessings,
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
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jonesg
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I.M......intake manifold.
I looked at mine today, I wouldn't touch the PS pump or alternator...unless you swap the banjo.
maybe drain half the coolant and pop the big hose off.... but it looks do able without moving the big hose.
I took a short video.
I looked at mine today, I wouldn't touch the PS pump or alternator...unless you swap the banjo.
maybe drain half the coolant and pop the big hose off.... but it looks do able without moving the big hose.
I took a short video.
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cn90
- Posts: 8249
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
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The 2006 S60 2.5T with 106K miles...I replaced the tstat preventively using Facet brand (made in Italy).
It works great but a few days later noticed coolant leak around tstat area.
Turned out the small hose is getting tired lol...
Tightend the clamp and it stopped leaking for a while.
But I wanted a permanent fix.
Went to O'Reilly auto parts, they told me Gates has not sent them heater hoses for months lol!
Went home and used the Trans Cooler Hose (3/8-inch type) I had lying around.
Tricks:
1. Definitely need the 7-mm wrench for the large rad hose clamp.
2. Remove the Large Hose on the tstat side only (no need to remove the rad side), life will be MUCH easier.
3. The length is ~ 5 inches long.
4. Use a socket to enlarge the hose inside diameter a bit bc the space is tight.
5. Gently pry the factory Oetiker clamp and throw it away. Use new clamps.
6. Pour a cup of water to clean any spilled coolant (cover alternator with some plastic to avoid water
running into it).
7. The generic hose is not molded to S-shape, but it will work.
Just gently squeeze it a bit and watch it in the next few weeks to be sure it is not kinked completely.
Of course, the coolant flow is not as good as factory hose (bc factory hose is molded for the S-shaped curve),
but this is good enough to stop the leak.
8. Also, position the clamp in such a way that it is easy to access later (such as tightening or removing it).
HTH...
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It works great but a few days later noticed coolant leak around tstat area.
Turned out the small hose is getting tired lol...
Tightend the clamp and it stopped leaking for a while.
But I wanted a permanent fix.
Went to O'Reilly auto parts, they told me Gates has not sent them heater hoses for months lol!
Went home and used the Trans Cooler Hose (3/8-inch type) I had lying around.
Tricks:
1. Definitely need the 7-mm wrench for the large rad hose clamp.
2. Remove the Large Hose on the tstat side only (no need to remove the rad side), life will be MUCH easier.
3. The length is ~ 5 inches long.
4. Use a socket to enlarge the hose inside diameter a bit bc the space is tight.
5. Gently pry the factory Oetiker clamp and throw it away. Use new clamps.
6. Pour a cup of water to clean any spilled coolant (cover alternator with some plastic to avoid water
running into it).
7. The generic hose is not molded to S-shape, but it will work.
Just gently squeeze it a bit and watch it in the next few weeks to be sure it is not kinked completely.
Of course, the coolant flow is not as good as factory hose (bc factory hose is molded for the S-shaped curve),
but this is good enough to stop the leak.
8. Also, position the clamp in such a way that it is easy to access later (such as tightening or removing it).
HTH...
---
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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cn90
- Posts: 8249
- Joined: 31 March 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
- Location: Omaha NE
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 466 times
Update,
This small hose...I used to have a mysterious leak, every few wks, the coolant goes down to Min. And this factory hose only leaked overnight when the engine is cold, drop by drop. So, if you don't use a flashlight and look down there, it is difficult to see the leak bc it goes down the engine block and splash shield.
Anyway, the new generic heater hose fix works. No more leak.
This small hose...I used to have a mysterious leak, every few wks, the coolant goes down to Min. And this factory hose only leaked overnight when the engine is cold, drop by drop. So, if you don't use a flashlight and look down there, it is difficult to see the leak bc it goes down the engine block and splash shield.
Anyway, the new generic heater hose fix works. No more leak.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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