Car almost stopped on the road, '97 855 Topic is solved

[DennisCA]

Mine is a non turbo though

[DennisCA]

Maybe this is what my car needs. (Similar problems)

Stage Zero is a must for these cars to perform properly! They are 30yrs old by now.

When I got my 96R 9 years ago I did stage zero most everything, especially the ignition and fuel system. And I'm glad I bought everything Volvo or OEM, otherwise I'd have to do it all over again by now.

I've had to do a lot on this car despite owning it for a month or so. A lot of this was because the service book is lost, no idea what service it has received except what I can read on stickers, like repeated rust treatments.

-Timing belt swap (using timing tools)deasdeas
-Serpentine belt
-Coolant flush and replacement
-Oil & filter change
-PCV system clean and rebuild (I used fuel hose to replace broken parts)
-Cleaned MAF
-Repaired flapper valve in airbox (disabled it, permanently in cold mode)
-SAS delete (stopped working)
-Cabin blower repair, also replaced the resistor and relay.

Ignition system is up for replacement next, but since it's working now, I'll probably do a piecemeal replacement of the most likely wear parts. I know the leads are old so probably them and the plugs first.

[Clemens]

cap, rotor, plugs, and if you have the funds, Bourgicord wires. if Bourgicord is NLA, I don't know what works

[scot850]

I concur on the brand of plugs leads but they are getting hard to find. 10V are harder to find than 20V. I have a friend with the 20V in a 98 and has been running NGK cables for about 6 years with no issues as a possible alternate.

Neil.

[DennisCA]

I have bought new OE plugs, rotor and distributor cap yesterday. I could not find Bougicord leads only Bosch or NGK so I haven't got those.

A new coil might also be a good idea though they rarely fail I have heard.

[DennisCA]

Okay new cap, rotor and plugs installed, old ones were Bosch 4 electrode plugs, looked fine though. The leads however, I found cracks on 4 out of 5 of them where the grey plastic tube is that is inside the engine. As a temporary fix I wrapped them all in electric tape and then in vulcanizing rubber tape over that.





Went for a 10km test drive, everything is working fine right now. Hope the fix holds until I get new cables. I could've bought new ones last night, they had Bosch and NGK leads. But I figure it's best to get Bougicord ones.

[scot850]

Sorry for my typo above, I meant NGK plug leads not plugs (although though those work ok too).

Neil.

[DennisCA]

I was able to find Bougicord online for about the same price as NGK so I decided to go with that. But yeah they seem to be hard to find, good to know NGK works though.

[DennisCA]

I do wonder if they will fit, they are the blue ones based on the photo and I read somewhere they are for the 10V engines... But they match up with the number I get out of VADIS for my car.

https://www.mister-auto.fi/sytytysjohto ... 11-6469-p/

[scot850]

Unless there is a difference in the way the lead fits into the head (like the plug well is deeper or shallower), I'm not sure why a 10V and 20V set of leads were different. I had a 10V I repaired and one of the leads in the car was damaged. I fitted a replacement from a 20V and the car is still running 3 years later just fine. I will be interested to hear how you get on with these.

Neil.