P2 front window regulator replacement alternative brand - Dorman

[volvolugnut]

I am replacing the passenger side front window regulator on my 2001 V70. I have previously replaced the driver side regulator. I have used Dorman brand replacement regulator with good success. Photos of Volvo and Dorman regulators are attached.
First photo is Volvo brand. It has 3 rivets at the center pivot. The frame arm with the hole is 0.075 inch thick. The frame arm without hole is 0.065 inch thick - this is the arm I have seen bend and fail. The main frame is 0.080 inch thick.

The second photo is the Dorman brand regulator. It is made heavier. The center pivot has 5 rivets. The main frame is 0.095 inch thick. The arm with hole is 0.085 inch thick. The arm without hole is 0.125 inch thick.

I have so far not had a regulator motor fail so I have purchased the regulators without motor. I have always had to replace slide brackets when I replace regulators. I have also used a couple of Dorman regulators for Mercedes replacements. They are very similar.

volvolugnut

[rosietheleadsled64]

Hey there, I am about to do this job myself, but I cannot find many resources online for replacing just the regulator and not the motor. The only useful things I have seen online have been replacing the whole assembly prebuilt from the factory. Was it pretty straightforward, or was there anything trick I need to look out for?

Thanks

[jonesg]

did you watch this? it helped.

[vtl]

Is it an early model years problem? I have/had a couple of 05 XC70 for a long time, never had a regulator bent. In current 05 I even swapped glass to laminated, which is heavier and has lot more friction sliding in stock glass weather seals.

[jimmy57]

If you take the time to pull door panels and use Wurth HHS2000 or WD40 spray Gel Lube on the slide channels on glass that the arms use to move glass, they will likely never break. Silicone spray inside the weatherstrips where glass travels is also recommended. Not just Volvo P2 but any brand vehicle. Friction of the moving bits is what stresses them. Sap on the glass also kills them quick, as in within warranty period quick. If window tint comes off the adhesive needs to be cleaned off as that is another window lift killer.

[rosietheleadsled64]

did you watch this? it helped.

This video helps a lot, thank you. He does not show anything about swapping the motor over though, is that a matter of a few bolts/screws, or is it more in depth than that?

Thanks

[jonesg]

its very simple, get on with it.

[volvolugnut]

As I recall, motor swap is 3 screws and the electric connector. I don't think there is any rotation position problems when installing the motor.
volvolugnut

[jonesg]

I recall needing to use channel lock pliers to get the ball end of the arms to seat into the plastic slider blocks, other than that its simple.