What did you do to your P2 Volvo today?

[vtl]

Warm, dry day, after week of cold and rain, and before week of cold and rain. Sneaked under to check it is really the driveshaft that clicks under the console. It is... U-joint spew grease, vibration destroyed the rubber. Or vice versa. Anyways, I think I'll bite a bullet and get this Dorman driveshaft: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-77824-936-876.aspx Quality maybe lower than OE (but who knows), but at least it is fully serviceable.

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[vtl]

XC70 also needs a fuel pump. I have to do I->II twice in the morning before attempting to start the engine, otherwise fuel pressure is too low. 20 years and 277k miles, not bad. Better than 5.5 years and 57k miles in my Tundra that needs a new fuel pump, too Luckily, Tundra is under recall, so 38 gallons of gas in the tank is not my problem.

[abscate]

XC70 also needs a fuel pump. I have to do I->II twice in the morning before attempting to start the engine, otherwise fuel pressure is too low. 20 years and 277k miles, not bad. Better than 5.5 years and 57k miles in my Tundra that needs a new fuel pump, too Luckily, Tundra is under recall, so 38 gallons of gas in the tank is not my problem.

I think on the P2 fuel pump you don’t have to axle dropping nightmare of the p80, right?

[vtl]

I think on the P2 fuel pump you don’t have to axle dropping nightmare of the p80, right?

There's access hole under rear bench and carpets.

[SacredHeart]

I just did my first oil change on my V60 and no sludge. It was probably a little before it needed to be by millage and time, but I wanted to get the appropriate oil in the car and know where I stood. I followed the directions in the Oil Change thread in the DIY specs. I did notice that and I do not have the plastic tray under that part of the car and my oil plug is a little different. It does not have the magnet and the crush washer appears to be part of the plug itself or it might have been installed so tight that it would not budge. I think that I will get a standard plug for my next oil change in fall. I will probably look at see about a new tray as well. It looks pretty clean down there. I didn't notice anything unusual. mainly because we are below the rust belt and the previous owner kept it in his garage mainly. With a plastic oil filter bowl I am thinking that it is for among other things, protection for that. In anyone opinion, is that tray a must have or a not a big deal and don't worry about it?

Edit, I am going to get an Under Engine Air Guide Splash Cover. HD one on IPD next time I place an order.

[tfo]

yesterday i took apart my radio + ccm to fix two intermittent knobs: volume, and fan speed. volume never worked and fan speed tended to skip a tick or go backward a tick (relative to intended direction). job like this makes me very glad i have VIDA to clear the SRS warning that comes up, since the CANBUS line for the airbag runs thru the radio and ccm (very weird design decision- disables airbags and remote/central locking when removed).

i felt like i was at my job doing this solder work! i'm a part-time repair tech at a local retro games store, i work on old Nintendos mostly.

pics of the knobs before any intervention: example of bad joints (first; volume) and good joints (second; tune/source).

just applied some liquid flux (honestly closer to gelatin or a jam than liquid) and added a small amount of solder until the joints were mostly silver on the surface. the volume knob worked great after this, and the fan speed knob was much closer to perfect. i think to improve this, i would have tried to remove the gunk on the joints- seems to be from factory no-clean flux or something? it didnt act/look like oxidization so i wasn't sure. it stayed there as i applied fresh solder and made it harder to make it "look clean."

i'll probably end up taking the CCM out again since the fan speed plastic knob looks like a dog used it as a chewtoy (or more likely, someone tried to remove it with metal tools and failed), and i want to replace it. should be easy to grab from my local pit.

see also my thread on the R headlight swap, i finally resolved that! next on my to-do list is to figure out which bullet to bite in terms of my coolant expansion resevoir. the cap original to the car cracked and didnt hold pressure, so i got an aftermarket one from Advance Auto, probably CarQuest brand. I dont remember if it thread on correctly, but my coolant boiled over again. To check my sanity, i returned it to Adv. Auto and said it was defective: and the replacement didnt thread correctly either, like it was cross-threaded, but only after it got halfway down. I'm thinking my resevoir's threads are warped now, which sucks, because I think it was replaced when i got my belt + water pump job done ~8k mi. ago. Now I have to worry about oes/Behr parity with coolant caps.

Luckily it's still been cold here in VT, but today's the first day over 60⁰F / 20⁰C since fake spring, two weeks ago. Can't have coolant issues when it's hot out.

[abscate]

she/her
the sea of estrogen in question

PYXIE: 2007 XC70 ~169k mi.

I’ve got a 2004 parts car near VT if you need stuff….

[BlackBart]

I felt like i was at my job doing this solder work! i'm a part-time repair tech at a local retro games store, i work on old Nintendos mostly.

pics of the knobs before any intervention: example of bad joints (first; volume) and good joints (second; tune/source).

Now....if I tried that I would cause a tsunami of lead puddles, ruining everything.

Oh wait.....I DID try that on the back of my instrument cluster and ended up buying a rebuilt one from the guys in Canada.

(We love you Canada, this is only temporary, everything will be back to normal in a few years!)

[SacredHeart]

I can only adjust the volume on my radio through the controls on the steering wheel and my fan speed knob also does that as well. I am guessing this is my issue. I guess that I will be taking this on sometime soon. Thanks for taking this on!

[vtl]

Warm, dry day, after week of cold and rain, and before week of cold and rain. Sneaked under to check it is really the driveshaft that clicks under the console. It is... U-joint spew grease, vibration destroyed the rubber. Or vice versa. Anyways, I think I'll bite a bullet and get this Dorman driveshaft: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-77824-936-876.aspx Quality maybe lower than OE (but who knows), but at least it is fully serviceable.

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It's here. Visual quality is very high. Fully serviceable, U-joint is bigger. Driveshaft itself is bigger and heavier, too, which would perhaps affect car's snappiness and collar sleeve's life span.

Unfortunately, I'm under weather and can't install it yet.

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