car won't start. - 2009 - S60 Topic is solved

atillabjk · Post by **atillabjk** » 13 May 2025, 08:22

Hello;
I am very pleased to have found a forum site related to Volvo and to have joined you.

I have a Volvo s60 vehicle
2009 model
140,000 KM

I changed the timing set at 110,000 km. Approximately in 2023.

My vehicle had been having difficulty starting for a long time. Sometimes it would start immediately. Sometimes it would have difficulty. That was the only problem. I parked it in the garage when there was no problem. I had checked the battery. I saw that it was a little weak and I removed it from the vehicle and put it on charge until the morning.
I connected the battery to the vehicle in the morning and it did not start after that.
The starter motor is working, the timing belt is turning. There is a smell of raw gasoline from the exhaust.

I bought a new battery. I tried it that way and it did not work.
I checked the spark plugs.
I checked the ignition coils.
Fuel is also coming to the engine.
I checked the camshaft position sensors.

I wonder what the problem could be.

Ekte aracın çalıştırma videosunu ekliyorum


wont start.mp4: (3.01 MiB) Downloaded 55 times; wont start

Ekte camshaft pozisyon sensörünün verdiği tepkiyi de ekliyorum.


camshaft position sensor.mp4: (6.76 MiB) Downloaded 48 times; camshaft position sensor test

Thank you in advance.
Good day to everyone

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 13 May 2025, 20:37

Merhaba
1. Check your timming marks and verify they are good.
2. There is some whistling sound when you turning the engine which throws me off a little, but let's ignore it for now.
3. The car was not "staring good" for a long time...please elaborate further after what event it started, or you bought this car like that?
4. For how long this car was in garage between you leaving it and attempting to start?
5. Any new parts recently installed?
6. How you tested ignition coils? By resistance or you verified that there is am actual spark?
7. Any chance you can check compression in this car? I would remove all plugs and disconnect wires from ignition coils and injectors not to flood the engine further. You most likely flooded engine already so can add 20ml of clear oil into each cylinder and turn by hand slowly couple times and remeasure compression after that.

any chance you are able to have access to a scanner tool. I would be interested to know what engine temp sensor shows and what fuel pressure sensor shows(common failure item).
You probably have ton of codes now due to low baterry, no start.. so i would erase all and try to start again and reread the codes if any would populate. However without knowing at least fuel pressure reading and engine temp it will be hard to even suggest something further.

atillabjk · Post by **atillabjk** » 15 May 2025, 10:33

Hello;
Thank you very much for your valuable answer. I am grateful to you. Thank you again for taking the time to answer my problem.
I will check the timer marks. Finally, the timer marks and compression are left.

Whistling sound;
There was no whistling sound when the vehicle was first started. It started after this problem. But it does it occasionally. I think it is when I force the starter. I came across it in the video.

At first, the vehicle was difficult to start. Yes, but I thought it was the battery. It would start immediately most of the time. But when it started with difficulty, it would start in 5-6 seconds.

Lastly, I put the vehicle in the garage on May 5th and noticed that the interior lights were dim. I disconnected the battery and connected it to the charger. I put it on charge in the evening, took it out in the morning and connected it to the vehicle and started it, the vehicle worked very badly, it started by shaking excessively and I turned it off and tried again and it did not work again.

The last changed part in the vehicle;
Air flow meter (MAF sensor)
was changed in April last year.
Her complaint is; there was excessive idle fluctuation, it was very unstable. It was not stable and it was getting very high and it felt like it was going to stall. I connected the scanner tool and it gave a fault code. It was the maf sensor. I replaced it with a new one and it stopped and the vehicle returned to normal.
You can see the photo of the old and new parts below.

: airflow _ old

: airflow _ new

How did we check the spark plug and ignition coil;
There was a voltmeter but my uncle said let's check it the old way. We will see if both the coil and the spark plug are working.
We took them out one by one and checked them. We cranked and sparked.

Unfortunately I don't have a chance to do compression;
I don't have the tools. However, I will call a master to the garage to talk to him and have him do it. I left that job for last.

Scanner tool;
Yes I have a scanner tool. When the vehicle first started like this I connected it and it didn't give any fault codes.
It only gave a fault saying (ENGINE LOW PERFORMANCE) when trying to start it.

Low battery;
It gave many fault codes because of this. It gave warnings and errors such as ABS - brake system - anti-skid disabled.

I deleted these with the scanner tool. After checking the camshaft sensors and crankshaft position sensor, only the (Low Engine Performance) message appeared in our starting attempts. Other than that, no error or code appeared.

In the attached photos, I connected the vehicle to the scanner tool. I am sharing the information with you.

: scanner tool_1

: scanner tool_2

I am grateful for your help.

Best regards

Post by **jonesg** » 15 May 2025, 19:22

The writing printout is too small for me to read.
How is the fuel pressure.

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 15 May 2025, 19:42

So we verified that the spark is there "old schoold way". That's great. It appears that you are getting the fuel as well given the "smell", I would still verify that your are getting command signal to it.(small marker bulb with 2 wires will work great. Google how to test injector circut and you will find guys with needle like probes test at injector connector to see flickering light which will indicate computer sending signal). Unfortunately I was not able to see value for the fuel pressure. Try to play with your tool and maybe somewhere under fuel system it will give actual and desired pressure reading(if the pressure is reported to be way too high it will not start). Engine temp look great at 18C especially with outside temp showing 20C. So that's a check. You can always check air filter and make sure no rats made nest in there and there is blockage(or just can unclip the air filter housing and lift up part with maf and try to start). I would also carefully check all the air pipes around starting at maf-intercooler-turbo possibly one of the pipes "popped " and that's your issue.
0n the other note. Just rewatched your video. On the fuel injector rail to the right there is blue cap like tire inflation valve. You can check fuel pressure by connecting gaige there and try to start the car(should be around 3bar on working car and around 0.5-1bar of pressure after you attempted to start and left the car with gauge attached).
So items to check
1. Fuel pressure (i think any cheap bycicle type gauge might work for 1 time if no dedicated tool available
2. Check if fuel injectors are being commanded to "spray" via small 2watt bulb
3. Inspect air filter
4. Inspect air pipes for cracks or disconnect. Especially at turbo and Intercooler.
5. Try to unplug and plug back throttle body.
6. Look up electronic throttle body calibration or reboot and try that.
7. Remove spark plugs and inspect them. Put 20cc of oil into each cylinder and turn engine over slowly 1-2 times(restore oil coating on cylinder walls for compression) put spark plugs back(if looking clean and not damaged and not covered in oil deposits) or new ones and try to start. Off course would be great to do compression test prior to putting oil into cylinders, but desperate times..
8. Almost forgot. With starting of the car do you see the tachometer move? Try to see if your tool shows the RPMs upon cranking of the engine.

atillabjk · Post by **atillabjk** » 24 May 2025, 05:43

Hello;
I have done almost all the checks.
I have done all the procedures as you described.
I have checked the air filter. I have tried to cancel the maf sensor.

I have checked all the air pipes. I have not found any cracks, slits or bursts.
I have checked the fuel pressure from the part like the tire inflation valve on the blue cover on the right as you described. It is close to 1 bar. It increases when I try to start.
I have checked the fuel injector socket with an auto control pen. They all have a spray command.
When I start the car, the tachometer does not move.
I will also say one more thing.
I have checked the camshaft sensor, there is voltage. I have also done its test. However, when I connect the sensor, I get 0v. However, the 5.00v value is given when I bring a metal part close to it. In the sensor test of another vehicle on YouTube, there is a 5.00v current. When a metal part is brought close to the sensor, it gets 0v. I do not know if there is a problem here. I am not sure.
Also, I couldn't get any V in the crankshaft position sensor test. In a few videos, they only read the OHM information on the part. I had a value between 150-200 ohms.

NOTE:
What I didn't do;
I didn't look at the electronic throttle and body calibration.

Removing the spark plugs and adding 20cc oil.

I have a question;
I disconnected and connected the battery. There was no problem before doing this. I wonder if there was a problem in the ECU while disconnecting or connecting the battery.
In a YouTube video; a different car. It starts but doesn't work just like my problem. He takes the ECU to the mechanic to have it checked. They detect that the ECU is broken during the checks. After reloading. He connects it to the vehicle and tries again and the vehicle starts.
Is it possible to have such a problem?

But when I connect it to the OBDII device, it enters the ECU and reads it. I'm really confused. I have never experienced such a problem before :S
In the videos, there are people who reset the ECU on the car. It returns to factory settings.
Thank you for reading my entire article and trying to find a solution for me.
I would like to express my gratitude.
Best regards

Post by **cn90** » 24 May 2025, 08:50

Search forum for PEM.

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 24 May 2025, 10:08

Why PEM? He gets 1 bar of pressure on residual and states it increases upon trying to start. So if there would be pem problem he would most likely get 0 pressure.(i am not saying it is not possible, but pressure is there)
I would try to do the 20cc oil into the cylinders and try to start it that way.
So the timming marks were checked and all correct?
Despite being concerning that tachometer is not
working i would try to see the engine rpms with your scan tool. Connect tool, find rpm value and try to start the engine. Hope you will see 200-350 value.
What was the pressure that you scanner tool showed? This sensor is known to fail and cause no start issues. But it would be best to diagnose rather than throwing parts.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0261230110
If all that is not working, you have 2 path. 1-buy vida/dice clone and with factory data meticulously check all inputs and try to fix it that way. Path 2- if able to afford mechanic who has scope it would be great. Good 2-4 channel scope will make all the difference when attached to pro mechanic.

Post by **jonesg** » 24 May 2025, 21:59

I would want to see 50+psi fuel pressure at key on prime.
Almost any decent scanner will show FP.
A used PEM is only $60, thats as common failure.

Vova585 · Post by **Vova585** » 24 May 2025, 22:15

jonesg wrote: ↑24 May 2025, 21:59 I would want to see 50+psi fuel pressure at key on prime.
Almost any decent scanner will show FP.
A used PEM is only $60, thats as common failure.

Same as fuel pump, wiring, ecu, sensors etc...he is from Turkey and might not have the same financial abilities as you or me. Also doubt volvo is a popular car in Turkey so parts are not easy to come by. At the same time he mentioned that his pressure was 1 bar on residual and was increasing upon trying to start. You suggested "research pem" without any explanation why and what to look for. If you would ask him to clarify the pressure upon cranking and if prior to cranking battery was charged, thats would be different story. We can also suggest to try spray "engine start" fluid upon cranking into intake pipe and if starting you issue is more than likely fuel system(but once again pressure sensor, pem, pump, wires?)
I am totally supporting DIY, but if you have no money to play "parts cannon" and need to get the car on the road asap, it is better to pay professional for a guaranteed diagnostics.