Our family went abroad this summer for 5 weeks. Both the 850 wagon and the '98 V70 stood outside without being moved for that time. Now both of them exhibit the same problem when braking: There is a very pronounced sort of brake shudder, but not the "steady" vibration kind. It feels like there is a single bump on the rotor, so when braking once per wheel rotation the pads grab something.
I thought it might be some rust and wear off after a while, but after driving for a week it is still there. Also, I was expecting the wheels to get out of sync and that the wheels would individually produce this sound/feeling, at least two wheels. But it remained the same as if there is only one wheel doing it, however it's the same on both cars.
I took the wheels of the V70 but, of course, that gives me access only to the outer side of the rotor. I found a rough spot on a rear rotor, but I was suspecting the front rotors, although I cannot tell where the tremble comes from.
What now? Garages around here do not grind rotors anymore, as far as I know. But I do not feel like buying a complete set of rotors either. Maybe I can isolate the rotor by temporarily clamping brake lines?
Any ideas or similar experiences out there?
After 5 weeks summer rest rotors trouble
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MadeInJapan
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I would say that your rotors developed some rust on them. Drive them hard and brake hard...get rid of the rust and you should be back to normal (of course I could be wrong). Could also be the rear e-brake that has become seared (also from rust) and is catching as you go down the road.
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
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vegasjetskier
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The same thing happens to my cars. Since I live in an area with corrosive air, when my cars sit for while the rotors rust everywhere except where the pads are touching. Then when I drive I get the pulsation. I just live with it because as soon as I fix it, it just happens again. I guess the solution would be to keep the cars in a garage, but that's not an option for me. Good luck.
.
SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
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SOLD - 2001 Volvo S80 T6: Mobil 1 Oil & Synthetic ATF, Brake Performance drilled and slotted front rotors, Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Yokohama Avid V4S tires, 91K miles.
Help this site: Amazon.com link
Hi All,
It takes about fifteen minutes per rotor but it works. Take an 4 inch angle
grinder with a 60 or 80 grit flat 4 inch flap wheel grinding disk and chamfer the 1/4 of the edge of both sides of the rotor, at a 45* angle. Calipers can be removed but not necessary. I usually do it during a brake pad change.
Long sweeping motions without taking off too much in any one area. The back side of the rotors is a bit of a challenge, but it can be done at the cost of one flap grinding disk and one and half hours of your time. Excluding positioning, jacking the car and wheel removal.
It takes about fifteen minutes per rotor but it works. Take an 4 inch angle
grinder with a 60 or 80 grit flat 4 inch flap wheel grinding disk and chamfer the 1/4 of the edge of both sides of the rotor, at a 45* angle. Calipers can be removed but not necessary. I usually do it during a brake pad change.
Long sweeping motions without taking off too much in any one area. The back side of the rotors is a bit of a challenge, but it can be done at the cost of one flap grinding disk and one and half hours of your time. Excluding positioning, jacking the car and wheel removal.
Doug <///><
1999 Volvo V70 LT AWD X/C 143k back from the dead.
1995 Jeep Rangler Rio Grande 243k
1994 BMW 325i Sedan 226k
1999 Volvo V70 LT AWD X/C 143k back from the dead.
1995 Jeep Rangler Rio Grande 243k
1994 BMW 325i Sedan 226k
It turns out that on both cars it was the REAR driver side disk which had big corroded areas inside and outside. I suspect part of the problem may have been cheap metal-based pads. Next time I will buy the more expensive ceramic ones...
I just put new rear rotors on my wife's V70 and used her good passenger side rotor to replace my bad driver side rotor.
Still I am puzzled, why both cars on the same rotor? The pad should not be touching the rotor, so why localized corrosion?
I just put new rear rotors on my wife's V70 and used her good passenger side rotor to replace my bad driver side rotor.
Still I am puzzled, why both cars on the same rotor? The pad should not be touching the rotor, so why localized corrosion?
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