What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[jsrnsis]

Last night I took my rear brakes apart because of one side seeming to lock up, heat up, and producing a bad brake smell. I checked the pins, caliper and loosened the ebrake and took a test drive and everything seemed fine but today the issue came up again. I had akebono ceramic pads on the rear which are now at the end of their life 25,000 miles later, and I have new pads and rotors on order supposed to be here tomorrow. Potentially an e-brake issue as they've never worked right on this car but AWD e-brake cables seem like a real pain to do.

My job commute went from 5 minutes to 40 minutes so it's a little frustrating having to drive the car with a known issue.

[RedBrickCollector]

Got a used knuckle with the lug bolts and control arm thrown in for free. Now that I see them side by side I don't think the lug bolts that came with the car were original.

[scot850]

AWD parking brakes are an issue if a) you never use them or service them b) the cables will fail near the pivot point on the rear axle near the springs (held in place with a 10mm headed nut).

In the 2nd case, as per FWD parking brakes, when you go to fit your new rotors, while you have access to the parking brake adjuster, make sure it is free and lubed (DO NOT lose the small tapered pin). Hold the end of the cable with a pair of pliers and get a helper to pull on the parking brake lever. You should feel the cable retracting inwards. Then get the helper to release the parking brake and as they do pull with the pliers on the cable and feel if it returns easily. What often happens is the cable strands brake at the mount area on the rear frame and the cable strands act as a non-return feature causing the parking brakes to stay on, on that side. Obviously check both sides.

Other than the cable retainer clip (NLA but others have found replacements from different vehicles), as long as the small retaining nut comes off, the cable replacement is not much different to the FWD cars. You have to loosen the front mounts on the rear subframe trailing arms at the round jacking point a small amount to allow you to get the cable out. The cable is locked in place by a rivet at this mount. Daft design requires the rivet to be installed from the top which is impossible. I use a small #8? washer and place it above the mount and then use that as the anchor for the rivet, and rivet from the bottom.

Adjustment is through one of the lug-nut holes. Note the location of the star adjuster on each side. After replacing the rear rotor, crank it with a flat blade screw-driver until the rear hub locks. Then release the star adjuster by 3 clicks. The wheel should now be loose to turn, maybe with a light drag. Then after fitting and adjusting the other side, adjust the parking brake lever (remove the small panel in the center arm rest cubby) using the Torx bolt until it locks the rear hubs on 4-5 clicks.

Done!

Neil.

[scot850]

Those tapers on the wheel lug-bolts are wrong and will likely allow the wheel to loosen. Check the wheel has not been compromised by having them fitted as they could have damaged the taper in the rims. Check all wheels!

Neil.

[jsrnsis]

AWD parking brakes are an issue if a) you never use them or service them b) the cables will fail near the pivot point on the rear axle near the springs (held in place with a 10mm headed nut).



Done!

Neil.

I assume the parking brake was never used by the previous owner. The sheath is cracked and cable rusty, the brittle plastic brace that is bolted to the shock retaining plate had broken on one side but I used zip ties to keep it in place. On a previous car I actually "flossed" the parking brake cables with my dad while we sprayed penetrating oil down the tubes from inside the car, just took the center console off and parking brake expander and grabbed the ends with vice grips and got flossing. From then on the parking brake always worked flawlessly on that car.

The pads need to be replaced anyways, they were very low. Not sure why that would cause binding and heat generation but I guess I'll find out if changing those is the fix. Very limited AWD rotor selection on RockAuto, I wanted to try PowerStop as I've had good luck with them on other cars.

[scot850]

Like you I have used Akebono, but 25k miles does not seem like a lot on a P80. What can happen is the pads need to be filed slightly on either end as the dust and corrosion can cause the pads to stick in the rear calipers and not release fully. The only other issue might be a collapsing flexi-hose not allowing the caliper to release.

These parting brake cables do like to break strands at that area you are talking about. No amount of cleaning/lubing will fix that. The OE cables used to be sheathed in a nylon sleeve, but is that cracks, water gets into the strands of the cable and causes it to swell and eventually it prevents the cable moving freely, especially in the release direction. You should be able to replicate that by getting the rear wheels in the air, applying the parking brake and releasing it and see if the brakes release or not.

The rear rotors are getting harder to find as are all rear end parts for AWD cars. I may have a spare parking brake cable anchor for the broken mounting for the cable on an AWD if you can't find one. Just PM me if you need one. This part:

https://www.volvocarstorontoparts.ca/p/ ... 50367.html

You can remove this plate/anchor by loosening the rear shock. The drill out the original stud and use a m6? bolt in it's place.

Neil.

[xanthefin]

AWD parking brakes are an issue if a) you never use them or service them b) the cables will fail near the pivot point on the rear axle near the springs (held in place with a 10mm headed nut).

In the 2nd case, as per FWD parking brakes, when you go to fit your new rotors, while you have access to the parking brake adjuster, make sure it is free and lubed (DO NOT lose the small tapered pin). Hold the end of the cable with a pair of pliers and get a helper to pull on the parking brake lever. You should feel the cable retracting inwards. Then get the helper to release the parking brake and as they do pull with the pliers on the cable and feel if it returns easily. What often happens is the cable strands brake at the mount area on the rear frame and the cable strands act as a non-return feature causing the parking brakes to stay on, on that side. Obviously check both sides.

Other than the cable retainer clip (NLA but others have found replacements from different vehicles), as long as the small retaining nut comes off, the cable replacement is not much different to the FWD cars. You have to loosen the front mounts on the rear subframe trailing arms at the round jacking point a small amount to allow you to get the cable out. The cable is locked in place by a rivet at this mount. Daft design requires the rivet to be installed from the top which is impossible. I use a small #8? washer and place it above the mount and then use that as the anchor for the rivet, and rivet from the bottom.

Adjustment is through one of the lug-nut holes. Note the location of the star adjuster on each side. After replacing the rear rotor, crank it with a flat blade screw-driver until the rear hub locks. Then release the star adjuster by 3 clicks. The wheel should now be loose to turn, maybe with a light drag. Then after fitting and adjusting the other side, adjust the parking brake lever (remove the small panel in the center arm rest cubby) using the Torx bolt until it locks the rear hubs on 4-5 clicks.

Done!

Neil.

I have heard rumours some Volvos came from factory without adjustment thingy but with flat H iron plate on top instead.

[melmaclifeform]

Went and picked up a bumper for my S70 that is actually an S70 bumper. Excited to get it on after the car has sat around with an XC bumper for 5+ years.

Speaking of, does anyone have a photo of the fender skirts? I've got the necessary rivets, but not the other miscellaneous hardware and want to see what parts I need to scrounge up.

[jsrnsis]

Ok so I looked further into this. It seems some awd rear caliper brackets leave more room on the outside between the brake rotor. I measured one at 10mm and the other at 11mm after removing rust scale and there's a visible difference after mounting them. My car came with the stamped steel dust covers that mount on the caliper brackets and would act as washers to push the bracket further out. I don't know if some cars don't come with those, they seem prone to rusting out.

All in all, I changed the hose (it was only 2 years old but I might have damaged it by over flexing with the recent bearing work), I changed the caliper to one off the car that's been sitting for a year, and exercised it by pumping the brakes with it unmounted and then retracting with a tool, and put on the bracket that gives an extra mm clearance on the outside of the rotor. It's now 90% better, only minimally more heat than the other side. Also new rotors and pads on both sides. New caliper on the way for Monday.

Slide pins have always been greased well and not hydro locked, also ebrake has been confirmed to be a non issue.

[Chieber]

Had to clean up the garage a bit, because this is the aftermath of ordering parts for the car.

So far I’ve crossed the following items from the list.
Someone help calculated what this would cost at the dealer hahaha

Interior:

• Repaired dab aerial that was attached to the pioneer double din head unit

• Replaced dashboard instrument lights with led

• Replaced light bulb gear selector

• Repaired non working passenger lights

• Replaced drivers side door stop

• Replaced drivers side door actuator

• Replaced new drivers door park light

• Replaced the leaky heater core

• Added US style door and belt chime

• Added fog lights

• Replaced all dashboard switches with new bulbs

• Replaced both blinkers

Exterior:

• Replaced the 2 rubbers on the door handles

• Replaced chipped left headlight glass and rear upper tail light

• Replaced side mirrors

Engine bay:

• Drain and filled the steer pump

• Replaced all cabin, oil and fuel filter

• Replaced oil and coolant

• Repaired abs module but it still gives rear right side abs error. The abs light is off now, so I guess the sensor is bad

• Replaced the accelerator cable

• Replaced the bonnet release cable

• Replaced the battery for a larger one

• Replaced spark plugs with oem Volvo

• Replaced window washer pump and repaired hose joint in the boot

• Repaired the whole ac system, except for the hoses and pipes