Chaosrob 1999 v70R 601 save, Going to need a lot of parts, lot of help and do a lot of reading.. Topic is solved

[abscate]

Trying to ID those wheels..

Thors?


Link to rear delta link swap

viewtopic.php?t=97555

[chaosrob]

I believe they are factory 99 wheels on the R, at least I have seen three others with wheels like that

It's down but I need to do a thorough cleaning of the tank so I am going to wait until tomorrow to put it all back together.

Questions:
1)Are the bolts that secure the subframe to the body reusable?
2)Did the factory slather these bolts with red lactate or did the people who did the fuel pump previously? They were an absolute nightmare
3)When I got it dropped I noticed there is another pump on the drivers side as well. I can only assume this is a transfer pump of some sort since the tank is basically saddle bags, is that correct? If so is this pump still available anywhere? I would hate to put this all back together and find out I can only use half a tank due to a faulty second pump. thought you guys/gals might know and save me the effort.

Thanks all

Trying to ID those wheels..

Thors?


Link to rear delta link swap

viewtopic.php?t=97555

[matthew1]

Trying to ID those wheels..

Solar

https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.matthew ... ochure.pdf

[scot850]

Not Thors. I have a set of Thors on mine but they came from a P2. I did not recognize them at all, so great work from Matthew figuring them out.

Chaosrob.

Answers to your questions:
1) Yes they are re-useable if they are not damaged by reacting with the aluminum frame.
2) Yes they did use Loctite, but the biggest issue for me and others in the north where there is a lot of salt used in the winters is the bolts react with the aluminum frame. In my case bad enough the bolts snapped as the had become one with the subframe which had degraded so badly it had cracked through. I think Abscate linked my trials on my 00R.
3) Only the RHS is a pump. The LHS is called an 'ejector' or 'ejector pump'. It is not actually a pump but more of a pressure pump the moves the fuel from the left saddle to the right where the pump is. It does this using the return pressure to from the fuel system. It also gives half of the signal to the fuel tank level information.

Neil.

[abscate]

Well done getting that dropped! That red stuff is a thermal setting glue that gets activated by the heat of friction of tightening. You can reuse them if the heads are in perfect shape and you punch mark them to make sure they don’t move., the watch them for a week, month, and year. I use Nickel antiseize, not loctite , on these because I am in the nasty salty Northeast.

Inspect the wiring very carefully, my fuel pump wires disintegrated when I dropped the Kat AWD tank, so I made a pass through conn3ction from NiCopp which I filled with a 3 cm plug of epoxy to seal.

If you think you will run the car long term, I would use new hardware. It’s still all available and it isn’t to expensive. All the part numbers are documented in my ‘ Resurrection of Ekaterina” thread.

They are easy enough to take out amd replace later once you are committed on the car, too.

For a V70R in 601 Red, I’d commit now! Probably only about 10-20 of those shipped to North America

[chaosrob]

Searching around for a fuel pressure regulator for this thing, no joy, it seems it is part of a fuel line that is disco. Is there an appropriate part that will cross over or will I have to completely redo these lines and go with a rising rate fpr? please excuse my ignorance but I really would prefer to not have to go through this again even if it means making all new lines and adding aftermarket components. TIA

[abscate]

Fuel pressure regulator is NLA new. Good news is it uses the 1999style “ insert wierd Swedish engineering term here” type that uses the evap canister vacuum and returns fuel to the tank from near the tank.

Return lacking fuel supply system

viewtopic.php?t=102927&hilit=Return+lacking&start=10

[V50M66]

I believe they are factory 99 wheels on the R, at least I have seen three others with wheels like that

It's down but I need to do a thorough cleaning of the tank so I am going to wait until tomorrow to put it all back together.

Questions:
1)Are the bolts that secure the subframe to the body reusable?
2)Did the factory slather these bolts with red lactate or did the people who did the fuel pump previously? They were an absolute nightmare
3)When I got it dropped I noticed there is another pump on the drivers side as well. I can only assume this is a transfer pump of some sort since the tank is basically saddle bags, is that correct? If so is this pump still available anywhere? I would hate to put this all back together and find out I can only use half a tank due to a faulty second pump. thought you guys/gals might know and save me the effort.

Thanks all

Second “pump” is a transfer siphon with no electrical parts besides a level sensor, and siphons fuel utilizing the Venturi effect. It’s not available anywhere (genuine or aftermarket), so don’t touch it.

Wheels are factory ‘99 R 16” Solar.

Rear subframe bolts are reusable, with the exception of the forwardmost two that secure the long forward control arms with the round mount to the body. Those are stretch bolts, and must be replaced.

The rest don’t have loctite, or at least didn’t on my ‘98. I wouldn’t upon re-assembly - they galvanically corrode, which is why they’re such a pain to get out. You’re lucky you didn’t snap one, which is common.

I HIGHLY suggest the delta link swap. Get rid of all the unreliable, problem prone, expensive, and impossible to find AWD crap and replace it with the simple rear suspension it was designed to have. Save 500 lbs, better handling, actual parts availability, and better mileage. Food for thought, especially since you already have it apart.

[chaosrob]

Thank you for all the information.

I just cannot bring myself to make it fwd. I may be making a mistake and regret it later but I guess I will deal with that when It happens. I am not looking to seriously mod this I just want to try to bring it back to 0. I have plenty of fast cars and muscle cars, this thing just intrigues me, not sure why, I have never even driven one.

I believe they are factory 99 wheels on the R, at least I have seen three others with wheels like that

It's down but I need to do a thorough cleaning of the tank so I am going to wait until tomorrow to put it all back together.

Questions:
1)Are the bolts that secure the subframe to the body reusable?
2)Did the factory slather these bolts with red lactate or did the people who did the fuel pump previously? They were an absolute nightmare
3)When I got it dropped I noticed there is another pump on the drivers side as well. I can only assume this is a transfer pump of some sort since the tank is basically saddle bags, is that correct? If so is this pump still available anywhere? I would hate to put this all back together and find out I can only use half a tank due to a faulty second pump. thought you guys/gals might know and save me the effort.

Thanks all

Second “pump” is a transfer siphon with no electrical parts besides a level sensor, and siphons fuel utilizing the Venturi effect. It’s not available anywhere (genuine or aftermarket), so don’t touch it.

Wheels are factory ‘99 R 16” Solar.

Rear subframe bolts are reusable, with the exception of the forwardmost two that secure the long forward control arms with the round mount to the body. Those are stretch bolts, and must be replaced.

The rest don’t have loctite, or at least didn’t on my ‘98. I wouldn’t upon re-assembly - they galvanically corrode, which is why they’re such a pain to get out. You’re lucky you didn’t snap one, which is common.

I HIGHLY suggest the delta link swap. Get rid of all the unreliable, problem prone, expensive, and impossible to find AWD crap and replace it with the simple rear suspension it was designed to have. Save 500 lbs, better handling, actual parts availability, and better mileage. Food for thought, especially since you already have it apart.

[V50M66]

Thank you for all the information.

I just cannot bring myself to make it fwd. I may be making a mistake and regret it later but I guess I will deal with that when It happens. I am not looking to seriously mod this I just want to try to bring it back to 0. I have plenty of fast cars and muscle cars, this thing just intrigues me, not sure why, I have never even driven one.

Going full “stage 0” on the AWD cars is incredibly difficult (NLA parts being the main issue there) and very expensive . Been there, done that - before FWD swapping my ‘98, I tried to make the AWD great, and it simply wasn’t worth the time, money, and headache, and I eventually threw in the towel after one too many AWD-specific failures of unobtanium parts. I wish I had just done the swap from the beginning - it’s so much better now.

They are very good cars, and I’m sure you’ll thoroughly enjoy this one once running. Speaking from personal experience, you’ll enjoy it far more (both from a driving dynamics and maintenance standpoint) by getting rid of the factory-retrofit AWD system and enjoying it as the engineers originally intended.

It’s not a bad system if in good shape from a function standpoint, it’s just the reliability and parts availability that leaves a lot to be desired. Hopefully yours is in nice shape if you elect to keep it, but I wouldn’t hold out hope.