More A/C fun with 1998 T5

rudsaki · Post by **rudsaki** » 30 Jul 2025, 13:34

Previous Post: viewtopic.php?t=106850

Yesterday was 96 so went for another test drive. Everything good with 40 deg at vent for 15 miles then went warm in AUTO mode. Switched to full manual cold setting and back to 40. This morning noticed spot under car and it was the quick connect to drier had popped off with one O'Ring showing. All refrigerant lost.
Popped it back on and pushed all I could, but could not break it loose Evacuated it again and added 2 cans. New test drive at 80 deg outside with vent temp 40-35. At some point not getting much fan speed. Putting fan on high full manual made moaning sound, but not much wind force. Back at home turned A/C off, but vents still cold for quite awhile. Lots of evaporated water running down driveway.
Did it freeze evaporator blocking air? Don't think compressor was cycling off at all. Does high pressure sensor control this?

Post by **abscate** » 30 Jul 2025, 13:52

With no interior fan amd 40F delta the evap,will freeze, yes. The high pressure switch will then shut down the AC , or maybe the low pressure side drops first?

Some,times the springs don’t quite seat right on the snout and then you pop the line. I’ve had that happen once or twice

rudsaki · Post by **rudsaki** » 30 Jul 2025, 16:26

Dang blew out quick disconnect again. A much as I can see it the spring looks good. The 2nd hidden o-ring is enough to hold the pressure. I cannot pull it hard enough to connect it again.
Ordered a high pressure switch assuming its not turning compressor off at high pressure which blows connection out. Also when I replaced that dryer maybe clamped in a way its putting strain on connection?

Post by **abscate** » 30 Jul 2025, 18:03

Are using the tool to reinstall the dryer line? You need to expand the spring, push together, then remove the tool. I like to hear the click as the spring closes back over the snorkel or trombone lip.

You could also zip tie on both sides and then copper wire it closed. Not pretty but it’s a “ get it done “ solution

Both Neil and I have had some ac fittings which required filing on the trombone to catch the spring

On edit

Hose clamp the aluminum line, then big vice grips to squeeze it back onto the evaporator warm side

rudsaki · Post by **rudsaki** » 31 Jul 2025, 08:07

Did not use tool to reinstall connector. Probably let gas escape to start over using tool since i also might have damaged inner oring.
Could combine your hose clamp idea with wire to make a safety lock.
Check out this old eBay ad photo where a company had a solution.

Post by **abscate** » 31 Jul 2025, 10:49

If your R134A charge went "bang whoosh" you should add about 80-100mL PAG oil to the dryer to replace any lost. Thats enough to lubricate well, but not too much to worry about over oiling. Full charge oil is 250 mL, I think.

rudsaki · Post by **rudsaki** » 05 Aug 2025, 18:02

Started over using new orings and the tool to open up the spring lock which you can see in photo is now over drier lip. Probably not needed, but added safety strap.
Vacuumed it out and let it sit overnight with gauge. Lost 2 psi!

.
Found original yellow orings in garbage, repeated whole process and no overnight vacuum loss
Test drive today good 40 at vent, never lower and no freezing. Only 81 degrees today so will test again on hotter day.

Post by **scot850** » 05 Aug 2025, 18:51

Creative engineering for sure! Glad to hear you have success, long may it continue.

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 06 Aug 2025, 03:49

I wonder if copper wire could be wrapped around the snout, the brought over the steel part and then wrapped to secure, a bit neater look.

I have to finish securing the drier on Evita, canister currently zip tied in