S70 Turbo Contactless ETM Needed Topic is solved

[abscate]

Well what I found at the JY today, was a 2001 V70XC. I was hoping to find a white label, but the car had a yellow. The newer '04XC had a ETM that looked totally different, so when exactly did the use the white label ?

See the “ which cars have it?” Thread in the ETM room forum.

The C70s used it all the way to 2004, the latest model

I would grab a yellow from a junkyard especially of you can confirm mileage on car

Jane Bonds ETM went to another car working at 300k +

[Sveedy]

Well sometimes I swear that too much info complicates things. I'm still not clear on which years are easily interchangeable.
Yes I see that the yellow is used up till '14, but is the new white label contactless unit the one with a cylindrical shape on the drivers side ?
Really some pictures of the 3 or 4 variants, and a chart of what they do or don't fit, would simplify things greatly.

[abscate]

Physically, all three units fit all these cars, they mount with 4 M6 longish bolts.

Software in the ETM must match and marry with software in the ECU. There is no way to tell what software is in a junkyard ETM unless you can power it up in a car. There have been many upgrades , too, so the date and part number dont tell you what is actually installed.

Most cars wont use more than one replacment, so a yellow label ETM almost always has life left in it.

[ericmci]

Finally got a clear shot of the label on my ETM
Seems like the original lasted longer than most

[ericmci]

Finally got a clear shot of the label on my ETM
Seems like the original lasted longer than most

20251018143818~2.jpg (23.62 KiB) Viewed 166 times

[ericmci]

Well I made it out to Allentown and they did have a 99 S70 GLT but it doesn't seem like it was the updated part after all.
I still picked it up for 50.00.
Even though the VIN did confirm the correct contactless part number I believe this is a case of the Volvo genius superseding part numbering system where the 'replacement' etm part # is now tied to the VIN instead of what it shipped with.

I am including some picts to see what you all think about the cleaning job I did with plate and the bore and if it is good enough.
There is some staining but the plate seems to move freely.
It was very dirty. I am now wondering what will happen if if just give mine the same cleaning.
I figure between the two I should be back and running full strength( at least for a while) and I can save and send the unit I don't
use to XemoDex at some point to become contactless.

What say you all?

And-- Thanks!

[scot850]

That is the problem with the labels on these, that if you use cleaners the info disappears on them! The main parts to try to make sure are clean is the area near the throttle plate. Build up in the areas where that operates is where most of the issues happen. That and the wipers that determine where the throttle plate should be wear out. No amount of cleaning fixes that.

I have spent hours cleaning ETM's and have managed to get them pretty clean. The bigger disappointment for me is how rough the castings are in the first place.

It is a pain getting the connector separated at the bottom of the radiator area on the engine harness. You can plug in the 'new' on and get someone to switch the ignition on to Posn II and watch the throttle plate as it zeros. If it moves and buzzes initially it is likely going to work, but how good it is you won't know until you fit it.

Cleaning your own one may improve it, but if you are getting codes thrown it is unlikely. I guess just say never say never!

Good luck!

Neil.

[ericmci]

In that case everything is moving freely so probably clean enough but I will give it another pass.
I will test it with a 'plug in'- then probably just mount it and consider my original later.
As it is in limp home mode and ETM codes and ever since we owned in in 2010 it has thrown the occasional TPS code.

Any tips on removal? I don't mind removing a few extra things for more space but also a big fan of minimalism in removal too.

At least this is a direct 99 turbo GLT to same.
Hopefully it has some life in it or it's yellow label action next.

[scot850]

I have listed my personal approach to tackling this. The hardest part is loosening the clamp for the intake pipe onto the bottom of the ETM. It may be useful to have a mirror on a stick and a flashlight to loosen the clamp. A 1/4" drive ratchet and maybe 2" extension with a 7mm hex socket will help. You just need to loosen the clamp enough to rotate the turbo intake pipe back towards the engine once you have disconnected the intake rubber hose from the top of the intercooler. Doing that and a little persuasion, will give just enough room to remove the engine cooling fan and it's frame from the back of the radiator upwards and out. This will give you a lot more room to tackle the ETM removal.

You can now remove the intake pipe fully. Take a good look at it so you know how it fits together. The intake pipe end at the ETM can be a bit of a challenge refitting onto the ETM.

This is again easiest with a mirror and a 10mm socket on the 1/4" drive Remove the rear 2 first, then remove the left one as you look at it. Leave the RH front one as you look at it to last as you will need the other hand to support the ETM as you undo the last bolt. Lower the ETM down onto the engine harness. The wiring harness for the ETM is routed behind the starter motor if it has never been off. You will have to remove the starter or at least the bracket on the left hand end to be able to remove the cable. Abscate and others recommend throwing the support bracket away as it was not used on the later P2 cars. I do refit it, but that is me, but I route the cable to the front of it and ziptie it out the way so I don't have to remove the starter again for this job. Either works, just pick what works for you.

I recommend a new gasket is available. They can often be reused due to the way they are made. But if it gets damaged during removal you are goosed without a spare.

To separate the cable ends can be a bear. I have resorted to spraying it with silicon oil at the join and using two adjustable pliers to get them apart. Be careful as there is a metal U plate wit ha flimsy plastic clip on it holding the connectors to it. I have never found an easy way to remove it from the connectors to make working on separating them easier. It is difficult to explain how it slots into the bottom of the connector.

Once separated, you can connect the new ETM and turn the ignition on to make sure it initializes before fitting it.

Good Luck,

Neil.

[ericmci]

This is great!
Thank you.

Luckily I have a very hand borescope that should be able to help with some of the tricky angle viewing.
Today will just be about testing the 'new' one.
I will trace back the pig tail and find out where it is at now I suspect just where you predict as I doubt it has been removed.
Then manage to separate and temp plug the replacement in to see if it buzzes and moves/zeroes.

Replacement will need to wait till the weekend when I have access to a friends garage, this kind of thing on the street in Philadelphia is--
distracting.