Help with my pickle(s) - 98 V70 T5 - water pump bolt + fuel delivery line

stickinthemud · Post by **stickinthemud** » 10 Oct 2025, 14:51

Hi all,

This forum has been such an amazing resource - thanks for everything and thanks in advance for any support you might offer me as I untangle myself from some messes of my own creation. Context - I'm doing timing belt + water pump service on my 98 V70 T5. It's my first time doing it.

Pickle #1
While moving fuel delivery line out of the way I attempted to disconnect from the rail and it having been a few years since I did this, I wrenched too hard and the line snapped at the rail + a little twist at the end of the line. Thankfully, I've found a replacement part on ebay, fingers crossed its the right one since they do not seem to be available otherwise, but I'm looking for advice on how to best disassemble where it fits into the rail. Do I need to remove fuel injectors to get there? Trying to not dig an even deeper hole.

Pickle #2
Torquing down the bolts to spec (12 Ft Lbs. is what I had) on the new water pump... I'm thinking its weird I haven't maxed out yet and starting to doubt my torque wrench... and a bolt snaps

. So... lazy me wonders if I can just finish the job and pray there's no leak and cross the bridge of getting that bolt out the next time the water pump needs doing. Can anyone tell me if this is a horrible idea and guaranteed to fail? Do I need to just bite the bullet and try to get that bolt out? Such a tight space. I might be able to just get it out with a vice grip and not have to tap but otherwise its going to be a huge pain.

Needless to say, thinking again about my life choices today

Cheers

Post by **scot850** » 10 Oct 2025, 17:40

Check you have the correct bolts. The original pumps had bolts that were I think 30mm long. Newer pumps like those from Aisin have thinner pump bodies/flanges. 5/7 of the bolt holes are are through holes if I recall, and 2 (the top most left side bolts) bottom out. The through holes though are not threaded all the way through.

The pump will likely leak unless you are lucky or used sealant both sides of the gasket. The bigger issue is the timing belt pulls on the pump so yo have removed about 18% of the strength of the pump mounting. As to how easy it will be to remove will depend on which bolt snapped.

Not quite sure what you are trying to do with the injector rail. Recommend at least using new injector seals at least.

Neil.

stickinthemud · Post by **stickinthemud** » 10 Oct 2025, 18:30

I went ahead and just ordered new 25 mm bolts since I was going to need one anyways. I agree its likely to be an issue. Its the top left bolt that snapped. I'm hopeful there will be enough thread that I can just grab it with a vice grip and back it out that way.

As for the fuel line. I've attached a photo from the parts diagram. The green line is were it broke. The area circled in red is seated inside the fuel rail and I'm trying to figure out how it wants to be removed so I don't cause a new problem! New injector seals are a good idea if I do need to pop injectors out although I did totally rehab them a few years ago when I did PCV.

: GR-70625_1.jpg (24.46 KiB) Viewed 229 times

Post by **scot850** » 10 Oct 2025, 19:28

I would like to help you, but it has been a long time since I took a 98 fuel line off. Hopefully someone else will chime in. I will try to see if I can figure it out.

Neil.

Post by **Sveedy** » 10 Oct 2025, 19:39

You might damage one of the injectors while trying to get that fitting out, so just take out the injectors. The seals should be fine. Just use a little Vaseline on them when you put everything back together. If it was me, I'd check the local junkyard for a fuel rail, and not fool with that fitting.

Post by **abscate** » 11 Oct 2025, 02:10

A junkyArd rail seems like the way to go here , you might have to swap injectors for a T5

stickinthemud · Post by **stickinthemud** » 05 Nov 2025, 08:53

Thanks all.

I had a little streak of luck to make up for my novice mechanic skills - ebay had a reasonable priced brand new OEM replacement for the part I broke and I was able to get that bolt out with time and a small pair of vice grips.

So now I'm trying to finish what I started (and am coming to regret) and for the life of me I cannot figure out why the timing belt is does not fit.

The sticker on crank case cover shows engine serial # 1013663. It has a hydraulic tensioner. This is the part I ordered and I verified its the one I received. I'm kicking myself for throwing the old belt away already, but I'm pretty sure I checked them against each other when I removed it and they were same size... though not 100% sure. Anyways... this should be the right part!

Here's some photos. Any idea what I've got wrong here? Is it somehow the wrong belt? Am I just doing it wrong? Without the tensioner in place I can thread the belt fine but there's not enough give to install tensioner with belt in place and when tensioner is bolted in raising the pully I can no longer thread the belt. I am pretty sure belt is tight around crankshaft pully. Hopefully this is just something stupid/obvious I'm missing.

jmartin919 · Post by **jmartin919** » 05 Nov 2025, 09:59

I assume your tensioner is compressed?

stickinthemud · Post by **stickinthemud** » 05 Nov 2025, 10:10

Yes tensioner compressed with pin in - its a new part.

Post by **abscate** » 05 Nov 2025, 10:36

Get under and get the teeth set into crank pulley first. It helps to have someone else up top pulling up on both sides of the belt to keep it there, then work it around all the pulleys and tensioners - they all have to be in place to get the belt on right