1999 S70 GLT Ticking Sound

[ericmci]

Hey everyone, I wanted to upload a recording of a pronounced ticking noise that is not normal for my Volvo S70 GLT. It almost sounds like a classic Volvo S70 lifter tick, but it becomes much more pronounced at certain times and then completely goes away. It usually happens after the car has been sitting at idle in park. The sound does increase when I press the pedal, but it can disappear for days at a time.

This seemed to start right after the E T M issue, probably just coincidence. I did drive the car a lot in limp home mode during that problem, but the oil level was always good. I also changed the oil a few weeks before replacing the E T M.

To me the noise does not sound dangerous, but I would really appreciate everyone’s expert opinions on whether this seems normal or not. I want to make sure I am not dealing with any kind of oil starvation. For example, last night it was ticking in the grocery store parking lot, but when I drove home and parked, the sound was completely gone and the engine sounded fine.

Am I looking at something related to lifters or something similar

The recording is attached and should be clear and easy to hear.

Thank you so much for any insight!

[abscate]

Classic lifter tick with the fan joining in harmony mid clip....

[ericmci]

Hah, that's exactly what happened.
The fan was like wait let me get my headphones on and get in on this.

It's just strange how it is so much louder in those occasional periods.

Is she trying to tell me something?
Anything I should be preparing to remedy?

As always I appreciate the help!

[scot850]

I think your engine is past the engine number break that means it has solid lifters, not hydraulic. Maybe someone else can confirm that is the case?

I repaired a 96 10V 850 2.5. It had been sitting for a while and it sounded like a bag of nails. It wasn't until we actually drove the car that after maybe 1/2 mile the engine stopped ticking loudly. Now in it's case it was a hydraulic lifter car and they just needed exercise. Sometimes these engines can seem noisy due to the injectors and if you have the hood open.

The only other suggestion is if you like a bit of a challenge, is to replace the o-rings between the oil pan and the block and re-seal the pan. This may give a return of more oil pressure to the upper part of the engine.

Neil.

[MoVolvos]

Hey everyone, I wanted to upload a recording of a pronounced ticking noise that is not normal for my Volvo S70 GLT. It almost sounds like a classic Volvo S70 lifter tick, but it becomes much more pronounced at certain times and then completely goes away. It usually happens after the car has been sitting at idle in park. The sound does increase when I press the pedal, but it can disappear for days at a time.

This seemed to start right after the E T M issue, probably just coincidence. I did drive the car a lot in limp home mode during that problem, but the oil level was always good. I also changed the oil a few weeks before replacing the E T M.

To me the noise does not sound dangerous, but I would really appreciate everyone’s expert opinions on whether this seems normal or not. I want to make sure I am not dealing with any kind of oil starvation. For example, last night it was ticking in the grocery store parking lot, but when I drove home and parked, the sound was completely gone and the engine sounded fine.

Am I looking at something related to lifters or something similar

The recording is attached and should be clear and easy to hear.

Thank you so much for any insight!

.
Potential air cavitation? I tested my 00 S70 SE Base using 15-40W diesel motor oil and an o-ring conditioner. The sound went away.

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Se ... =8-30&th=1
.

.

[abscate]

Here is the engine number change for hydraulic to mechanical lifters. If you can read the sticker on your timing belt cover the engine number is there. It happened early in the 1999 model year, my 11/98 build T5 m56 ( I just love writing that) has hydraulic lifters

If the top plastic cover is off, you can tell my looking! Mechanical lifters will have little adjust ports for each valve!

Knowledge…

RN engine: mechanical (solid) valve lifters introduced in 1999
While RN series engines generally have mechanical valve lifters, engines produced up to mid-1999 had hydraulic lifters like the N Series engines. AustralianCar.Reviews understands that mechanical lifters commenced from engine number 1817653 and that, for these updated engines:
The intake ports were approximately 20 per larger;
The coolant and oil passages were modified;
The base circle on the camshaft increased by 2 mm;
Valve stem diameter decreased from 7 mm to 6 mm; and,
Valve length and lift also changed.
The intake and exhaust valve diameters, however, were unchanged at 31 mm and 27 mm, respectively

[ericmci]

I believe I have hydraulic lifters but I need to fetch my torque bit drivers from my friends garage in order to look but will confirm soon. 
I am thinking about trying a little Liqui Moly hydraulic lifter additive to clean things up.
Is it safe to use in these engines and has anyone had luck with it?

I also have been chasing a small idle issue ever since I did the ETM replacement. The car runs well, but every now and then I get a slightly rough feel between about twenty five hundred and three thousand RPM. My long term fuel trim is usually in the ten to twelve range, so I am pretty sure I still have a small air leak somewhere.

I want to pull the turbo intake pipe off again and re-tighten the ETM gasket. The gasket was annoying to line up the first time because it is one of those one size fits all designs but I am certain it is as close to lined up as possible with this slightly smaller size.
Even though spraying carb cleaner around the area did not change the RPM at all, I want to make sure everything is torqued properly.
I will also go through every clamp and hose one more time just to rule out anything loose.

The lifter tick only shows up at warm idle, so I am wondering if a tiny i air leak somewhere could be letting in more air than the ECU expects, which might be causing short dips in oil pressure once the oil is fully hot. That could explain why the tick only appears when the engine has been running for a while.

I am also thinking about picking up an oil pressure tester kit from Harbor Freight for about thirty dollars since I cannot find a rental anywhere in Philadelphia. It seems worth having for peace of mind.

Any thoughts on the Liqui Moly additive or on tracking down this kind of small leak would be appreciated.

[hotdog067]

I believe I have hydraulic lifters but I need to fetch my torque bit drivers from my friends garage in order to look but will confirm soon. 
I am thinking about trying a little Liqui Moly hydraulic lifter additive to clean things up.
Is it safe to use in these engines and has anyone had luck with it?

I also have been chasing a small idle issue ever since I did the ETM replacement. The car runs well, but every now and then I get a slightly rough feel between about twenty five hundred and three thousand RPM. My long term fuel trim is usually in the ten to twelve range, so I am pretty sure I still have a small air leak somewhere.

I want to pull the turbo intake pipe off again and re-tighten the ETM gasket. The gasket was annoying to line up the first time because it is one of those one size fits all designs but I am certain it is as close to lined up as possible with this slightly smaller size.
Even though spraying carb cleaner around the area did not change the RPM at all, I want to make sure everything is torqued properly.
I will also go through every clamp and hose one more time just to rule out anything loose.

The lifter tick only shows up at warm idle, so I am wondering if a tiny i air leak somewhere could be letting in more air than the ECU expects, which might be causing short dips in oil pressure once the oil is fully hot. That could explain why the tick only appears when the engine has been running for a while.

I am also thinking about picking up an oil pressure tester kit from Harbor Freight for about thirty dollars since I cannot find a rental anywhere in Philadelphia. It seems worth having for peace of mind.

Any thoughts on the Liqui Moly additive or on tracking down this kind of small leak would be appreciated.

hi ericmci,
I am experiencing that same problem. ticking intermittently... i noticed the ticking only because the oil pressure warning light sarted to blink recently... so I did what you were thinking of installing an oil gauge to see what the pressure is when the ticking start to become audible... lo and behold, the pressure on the cheap a-s gauge is below 20... I also noticed bubbles in the oil when I peek thru the oil filler (after shutting off engine, I can see the bubbles initially, and the bubbles gradually disappear, in less than 30 seconds). Looks like i have to replace the o-rings in the oil pan.

Does anybody here know the measurements of the o-rings that need to be replaced? I am not sure if they are available from local dealerships, I may have to look for them in specialty shops. I could remove them and bring them along for easier comparison but my fear is they may not be available. If not, I may just try a thicker oil or additives and hopefully it goes away...

[hotdog067]

I'm going to try first this product called Lucas Oil Stop Leak (https://www.lucasoil.com/product/engine-oil-stop-leak/), or this 9982 Oil Stop Leak Sealant (from a company called Senfineco Germany https://www.senfineco.de/en/?action=acc ... eview&id=7 )...

Has anybody tried these products before?

[abscate]

I am trying to remember if they are standard o rings or if the have a special profile

You want the right parts here as this is critical engine function. Skip the additives and stop leaks, that won’t help here.