Brand new battery indicating to ‘replace’ 2 days, Car goes haywire when trying to crank. 1998 C70.

acfviola · Post by **acfviola** » 09 Dec 2025, 01:25

Hi all,
Battery died two days ago and thought it was finally at end of its lifespan. Replaced it the next day on the 7th. Now, on the 9th i’ve parked up and my passenger side window (left side) got stuck at halfway and radio kept turning on and off. Turned the car off and tried to start it again and got met with a loud ticking noise coming from the starter aswell as the whole dash going haywire. Popped the bonnet and was met with my brand new batteries health indicator showing red meaning it needed to be replaced. My OBD scanner indicates i’m getting about 10-11 volts. This same issue presented itself when my previous battery died and i’m wondering now what electrical fault could it be that’s killing my battery. Could it be the hot Australian summer frying the electrics or a potential malfunction somewhere causing this? Any help is greatly appreciated.

acfviola · Post by **acfviola** » 09 Dec 2025, 01:49

quick follow up as I realised it may be the alternator is gone, but if anyone has any other suggestions as to what it may be it’s greatly appreciated.

Post by **jreed** » 09 Dec 2025, 05:32

That description does sound like a charging failure. If you get the engine to start, you can read the voltage output from the alternator and confirm if it's not outputting 13.5V or higher.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 09 Dec 2025, 07:32

Yes, I agree, there is something wrong with your electrical system. Perhaps a massive short draining the battery in a short time. Check running voltage and resting voltage. A good system should charge while running to around 13.5 volts. A healthy battery should be around 12 volts with everything off if has been properly charged.
volvolugnut

Jaydiesel · Post by **Jaydiesel** » 09 Dec 2025, 20:13

Check the Battery wires. Going to starter and etc. All the Thick gauge ones. Those wires do have issues over time and you can be to the point those wire are failing you.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 10 Dec 2025, 13:47

Check the grounds - not sure why but they are almost always forgotten.

Post by **scot850** » 10 Dec 2025, 14:32

Also check the trunk light and the glove box lights are not stuck on. Use a cell phone on video setting and make sure the lights go off when closed.

Then next look at do a current draw test and see what the current drain is from the battery when everything is off.

Neil.

Post by **Grantkat** » 11 Dec 2025, 08:56

2 easy tests least eliminate some possibilities:

test #1:
if your car is started, test the voltage at the battery with a mulitmeter, as stated above you should see something at 13.8v or higher. above 13.8 you are good. not at least 13.8 you have a charging issue (bad Alternator, bad connection etc)

test #2: (assuming you have 13.8 or above)
Turn the car off and once the car is off - wait a minimum of 15 minutes before doing anything. I usually give it 20. this ensures all functions are "asleep".
#1 disconnect the postive terminal on your battery.
#2 connect a multimeter - one lead to the battery terminal and one to the battery wire you just disconnected
#3 set your meter to measure amps and use the miliamp setting (mA)

anything more than 50 miliamps is a good sign you have a parasitic drain. below 50 miliamps you have an electrical issue (bad battery connection, bad hot/ground connection etc)

another possibility which is rare but happens, your new battery has a bad cell in it.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 01 Mar 2026, 12:45

Wondering what ended up needing to be replaced or repaired?!

acfviola · Post by **acfviola** » 01 Mar 2026, 18:26

It was the alternator that had finally met its fate

got it replaced and driving with no problems