Experiences with Cam/Crank Locking tools?

ionianp2 · Post by **ionianp2** » 13 Mar 2026, 11:57

Hi Folks,

I hope all is well. Bit of an odd problem here: about time to change the timing belt and I stumbled upon a cracked crankshaft timing gear

I have no idea how this could have happened as I've owned the car for more than a decade and never abused it.

I'm comfortable with timing belt changes but seeing as I have replace this gear, I may have to bite the bullet and get a cam/crank timing kit to keep the crank locked in place as I pull the old and re-press the new gear. I am well aware of CTA tools 2863 and I would also need the crankshaft pin, however these seem to be quite expensive (to the tune of $400!)

Has anyone had any good experience with the cheaper timing kits e.g. found on ebay/amazon or elsewhere? I am reading mixed reviews but would like to hear anyone's take here if possible.

: Volvo_crank_gear.png (814.15 KiB) Viewed 137 times

Thanks in advance,

Ionian P2

Post by **erikv11** » 13 Mar 2026, 16:45

As an aside, how consequential is that crack in the crank gear? I'd be interested to hear from those with actual engine/machine experience (though I'm sure armchair/internet quarterbacks will be eager to chime in!).

My thoughts on the cheap timing tool sets:
- cheap set works just fine
- buy replacement cam bolts immediately, don't use the worthless, cheese-made bolts that come with the kit
- FWIW, I prefer to use the cam tools for timing belt jobs on P2 cars (I don't, however, use the crank pin)
- others report breaking off the little ears on the back of the camshafts during usage; this hasn't happened to me yet in three tries (yes, breaking them is unrelated to what quality of cam tools you use)
- I haven't yet used the crank lock piece on a P2 but that is not very technical so would not expect issues with the cheap tool - others get by with shoving a screwdriver in there etc.
- every kit comes with a crank lock pin, that's not a separate purchase (maybe you already know this, wasn't sure from your post).

ionianp2 · Post by **ionianp2** » 13 Mar 2026, 17:36

Thanks for the insight Erik! I had changed the timing belt back almost a decade ago, without any locking tools, and for other cars and was able to get by fine.

To your point, most of the complaints I heard were about the bolts in the kit being subpar. My eagerness to use the crank pin comes from whether I have to replace this crank gear; between using the proper puller and pressing the new one in with a rubber mallet, I don't want the crank to move at all.

At least the crank gear seems keyed, so there's only one way it goes in.

When I see that crack it concerns me that if it gets worse to the point where it breaks, I don't want to say goodbye to an otherwise perfectly good engine

But who knows, maybe I'm overthinking this

Post by **cn90** » 13 Mar 2026, 18:35

- Idk why you remove the pulley to do TB. No need to do that.
- Personally, I'd not worry about that tiny cracks. That is a solid piece of steel, so a bit of crack is inconsequential in my book. The load on that crank gear is light.

Post by **jonesg** » 13 Mar 2026, 20:16

Swap the crankgear out, I only paid around $90 for mine.
I think you will find spline damage when it comes off, it might fight removal. I used a steering wheel puller.
No crank lock needed, zip it off and back on again with a bit of blue loctite.
I made my own timing marks rather than trying to see the tiny ticks on the gear.
Install belt before tightening the crank nut, it won't matter if it moves.

Post by **cn90** » 13 Mar 2026, 20:48

Well,

If the OP decides to replace the crank gear (PN 8692286), then time to replace the Front oil seal too. Corteco or Volvo brand.

But anyway, this crank gear is indestructible. Never heard of it being a problem in Volvo forum.

ionianp2 · Post by **ionianp2** » Yesterday, 07:52

Thank you all for your insights.

So the consensus:

- small crack could be nothing, but if you change it, do the front seal too.
- any steering wheel puller (e.g. a rental) could get it out but it may fight me along the way
- cheap "Amazon" kit should work fine, but swap the bolts for beefier ones.

Post by **cn90** » Yesterday, 08:51

If this were my car, I'd put the belt pulley back on and that is it.

Anyway, if you replace the oil seal, then there are tricks:
- Brand matters, Volvo or Corteco brand.
- Pay attention where it sits w.r.t. bore housing so new seal goes in correctly, i.e., how deep.
- Search for trick using tacky red grease on garter spring. You don't want the garter spring to fall off.
- Use electrical tape to wrap the crank splines to avoid damage to the seal lip.
- Use rubber hammer and as little force as possible to install new seal to avoid dislodging the garter spring.

PS: someone sells the tools on Etsy to make your life easier...

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1745488157 ... l-tools-pn

Post by **abscate** » Today, 04:03

I’m struggling with that crack.

The load is spread out over the 26? Splines so any one spline sees very little load, but on the von side, the pulley is getting 2000 strikes per second of impact. That impact is damped by the pulley so the timing belt system doesn’t feel it.

I’m a viscous cheapskate but if I had this that far apart, I would replace it, especially since it’s hard to inspect.

That crack is probably at least 50% longer than it looks, and it’s headed for the locator pin.

I’ve got the CTA kit down here on Long Island, I’m sure we have some boston people to coordinate with to borrow , msybe?

$128 at FCP

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... gImmPD_BwE

Post by **cn90** » Today, 07:27

New $130.
Used (eBay etc) ~$20.

This is a part that I feel comfortable buying used. It is a solid piece of steel. Never seen anyone in forums replace it. Basically you have to use a grenade to blow it up...

Attached is a random photo from eBay so you can see...

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