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1998 S70 Turbo Cold-Start Nightmare Below Freezing - [SOLVED NEW FUEL PUMP RELAY] Topic is solved

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kai7
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Post by kai7 »

I spent way too many freezing mornings wrestling with this issue couldn't really find a solution online. So I hope this helps at least helps someone who may have the same issue.

Problem:

My 1998 S70 Turbo flat-out refused to start whenever temps dipped below 0 °C. Crank, crank, crank… nothing. It would eventually catch if I played games with the key and gas petal, but as winter got serious, even that stopped working.

Bought the car last summer as my first ride for a steal, but it needed a laundry list of mechanical parts to pass inspection. Summer? Drove like a dream.

Then winter hit.

When it got around to below freezing (-5°C - +1°C) when starting it would repeatedly crank, it maybe started after 10–15 seconds of cranking, but only if was slightly warmer the day before or if there was some fuel pressure still in the lines. I figured out that if I left the key in position II for about 5-10 minutes first, then when I would go to start it I would have to give the throttle a quick flick. With those steps, it would start 70% of the time, although if it didn't start in that moment I would have to wait and try again. The colder it got, the longer I had to wait with the key in position II. Once below -15 °C (5 °F), forget it... Even an hour with the key in pos II did nothing. Engine would just crank without firing. (I would try cycling the key on and off to continually to start the fuel pump, but I don't think that made a difference).
But once I got it running in the cold it was perfect. No stalling on idle or when driving, not much of a rough idle, no weirdness at all. Drove great.

What I tried:

- Tested fuel pressure with pressure gauge: 39 - 41 psi at cold start idle (at exterior air temp around 5°C to 10°C). A touch low, but in spec-ish. (Regret not checking the fuel pressure fall off after turning off the car to see if there was a leak).

- Replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor. No dice.

- New battery. Still nothing.

- New Wix fuel filter (replacing the original 28-year-old one :shock:). No resolve.

- Inspected the fuel pump itself. Ran fine, no issues.

- Reviewed wiring, spark plugs, grounds, everything, nothing seemed off.

I took a look at the fuel pump relay 103. It looked brand new, no cracks, no burnt pins, nothing visually obvious. But I've heard that this could cause issues, but I figured since my fuel pump ran fine, then there shouldn't be a need to replace.

But I ordered a new relay from Professional Parts Sweden off of RockAuto for CAD$28.37 (USD$20.54) anyway since it was a good price. I popped it in…

Instant fix. One turn of the key and she fired right up, in -10 °C weather. No pre-heating the key, no throttle dance. Just started like a normal car again. Mind blown.

I still can’t fully wrap my head around why this relay would only fail in cold weather. Maybe temperature-sensitive contacts, a solder joint inside that only acts up when it gets cold, or something with the electronics inside getting finicky below freezing. I don't know...

The fuel pump always primed and ran once I turned the key over, so I never suspected it. But apparently these 103 relays do cause starting issues on the 850/S70/V70 platforms.

If anyone has a solid technical explanation for the cold-only behavior, that would be greatly appreciated!

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Great write up! These fuel pump “relays” are actually complicated devices that need a signal ftom the engine to keep closed and both hot weather and cold weather intermittent failures are on these Fora.

That would have caught me , though, as that fuel pressure test would have tuled out the relay-controller for me, too.

Aftermarket relays on these cars don’t have a great history do you may want to look for a oem one for your glovebox
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850 LPT
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Post by 850 LPT »

This is great information, thank you.

I have a 98' S70 non turbo 5-speed that displays a similar problem. And same as you I went through all the obvious. I also have Abscate's 98' S70 non turbo auto that fires right up in the exact same cold situation. Could not figure it out, until now possibly.
98' S70, base, 5-speed manual, pewter/ tan, 148k miles
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kai7
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Post by kai7 »

abscate wrote: 14 Mar 2026, 03:19 Great write up! These fuel pump “relays” are actually complicated devices that need a signal ftom the engine to keep closed and both hot weather and cold weather intermittent failures are on these Fora.

That would have caught me , though, as that fuel pressure test would have tuled out the relay-controller for me, too.

Aftermarket relays on these cars don’t have a great history do you may want to look for a oem one for your glovebox
Thanks for the reply,

But what I don't understand is how leaving the key in helped it get started. Like it literally warmed it up electrically or something...

This relay I have now will last me until the cold weather gives up, so I'll spend this summer finding an oem one.

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Post by WinDVD »

kai7 wrote: 17 Mar 2026, 17:28
abscate wrote: 14 Mar 2026, 03:19 Great write up! These fuel pump “relays” are actually complicated devices that need a signal ftom the engine to keep closed and both hot weather and cold weather intermittent failures are on these Fora.

That would have caught me , though, as that fuel pressure test would have tuled out the relay-controller for me, too.

Aftermarket relays on these cars don’t have a great history do you may want to look for a oem one for your glovebox
Thanks for the reply,

But what I don't understand is how leaving the key in helped it get started. Like it literally warmed it up electrically or something...

This relay I have now will last me until the cold weather gives up, so I'll spend this summer finding an oem one.
If I had to guess the capacitors were failing inside the original relay. Possibly leaving the key in could have given more time for them to build enough charge to work?

When my relay failed, I had luck replacing the capacitors inside the relay and it worked like new. Honestly it looks like they underspecced the capacitors in there. I saw one of the capacitors that seems to fail more is a 16v cap and it should have more voltage headroom than that for reliability since its 12-14v system. I'm not sure why Volvo did this.
I put higher voltage and hour rated Rubycon capacitors as a replacement so I'm thinking it should last longer than the original caps.

I got these ones but there are plenty of other options.
RUBYCON / 25YXJ100M5X11 / 100UF 25V / 5000 Hrs @ 105c 25v
RUBYCON (VA) / 50YXM22MEFRT15X11 / 22UF 50V / 10000 Hrs @ 105°C 50v

If you are handy with soldering, you could possibly try replacing the capacitors on your original relay. Could be useful as a spare if nothing else. and also good quality caps are dirt cheap so it's an affordable repair.

It's also possible something else failed in the relay, but from what I've seen capacitors seem to be the leading cause of failure on these.

Chieber
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Post by Chieber »

WinDVD wrote: 06 Apr 2026, 09:35
kai7 wrote: 17 Mar 2026, 17:28
abscate wrote: 14 Mar 2026, 03:19 Great write up! These fuel pump “relays” are actually complicated devices that need a signal ftom the engine to keep closed and both hot weather and cold weather intermittent failures are on these Fora.

That would have caught me , though, as that fuel pressure test would have tuled out the relay-controller for me, too.

Aftermarket relays on these cars don’t have a great history do you may want to look for a oem one for your glovebox
Thanks for the reply,

But what I don't understand is how leaving the key in helped it get started. Like it literally warmed it up electrically or something...

This relay I have now will last me until the cold weather gives up, so I'll spend this summer finding an oem one.
If I had to guess the capacitors were failing inside the original relay. Possibly leaving the key in could have given more time for them to build enough charge to work?

When my relay failed, I had luck replacing the capacitors inside the relay and it worked like new. Honestly it looks like they underspecced the capacitors in there. I saw one of the capacitors that seems to fail more is a 16v cap and it should have more voltage headroom than that for reliability since its 12-14v system. I'm not sure why Volvo did this.
I put higher voltage and hour rated Rubycon capacitors as a replacement so I'm thinking it should last longer than the original caps.

I got these ones but there are plenty of other options.
RUBYCON / 25YXJ100M5X11 / 100UF 25V / 5000 Hrs @ 105c 25v
RUBYCON (VA) / 50YXM22MEFRT15X11 / 22UF 50V / 10000 Hrs @ 105°C 50v

If you are handy with soldering, you could possibly try replacing the capacitors on your original relay. Could be useful as a spare if nothing else. and also good quality caps are dirt cheap so it's an affordable repair.

It's also possible something else failed in the relay, but from what I've seen capacitors seem to be the leading cause of failure on these.
How long do you have to leave the capacitors alone to lose their charge before taking them off the board?
1/2 a shitbox V70 1998 2.5 NA

aeg
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Post by aeg »

Chieber wrote: 06 Apr 2026, 15:22 How long do you have to leave the capacitors alone to lose their charge before taking them off the board?
There's not enough energy in those caps to hurt you. You can unplug the relay and touch any part of the internals immediately.

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