Voice of reason. Replacing it is not a lot of money, compared to value of one lot of peace of mind.abscate wrote: 15 Mar 2026, 04:03 I’m struggling with that crack.
The load is spread out over the 26? Splines so any one spline sees very little load, but on the von side, the pulley is getting 2000 strikes per second of impact. That impact is damped by the pulley so the timing belt system doesn’t feel it.
I’m a viscous cheapskate but if I had this that far apart, I would replace it, especially since it’s hard to inspect.
That crack is probably at least 50% longer than it looks, and it’s headed for the locator pin.
...
Experiences with Cam/Crank Locking tools?
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erikv11
- Posts: 11913
- Joined: 25 Jul 2009, 14:03
- Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
- Location: Iowa
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'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 201k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 223k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 201k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 223k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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volvolugnut
- Posts: 6511
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My thoughts:
Cracks tend to grow when exposed to cycling loads.
If the crack grows and the hub splits it will get looser and if the nut does not hold in place, hammer out the crank nose spline. A bad crank is likely a death sentence for older engines.
It is mostly disassembled and a used hub is $20.
I would change the hub without locking the crank and never worry about it again.
volvolugnut
Cracks tend to grow when exposed to cycling loads.
If the crack grows and the hub splits it will get looser and if the nut does not hold in place, hammer out the crank nose spline. A bad crank is likely a death sentence for older engines.
It is mostly disassembled and a used hub is $20.
I would change the hub without locking the crank and never worry about it again.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.
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ionianp2
- Posts: 61
- Joined: 13 Aug 2019, 10:58
- Year and Model: 2004 Volvo s60
- Location: Greater Boston Area
- Has thanked: 16 times
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Thank you all for your insight. 
I went ahead and ordered the replacement gear. I ended up going with a new OEM one, which was on sale. After-all, I am keeping this car for the long haul. It's only a humble 2.4 NA, but the fact that I can row my own gears makes it an awesome daily for me.
I'm still scratching my head for how this one developed a crack in the first place. They shouldn't crack, but that dissuaded me from going with another used one.
At this point I'm researching for which "Amazon" toolset is decent enough to do the job. I'm even looking for used decent sets (if anyone has one feel free to PM me).
It's not that I'm uncomfortable with doing the timing belt job, I've already done it in the past; it's more the fact that to my eyes it gear looks a little offset and I am anticipating a bit of a fight to get it out, and put the new one in... Hence why I really wanted to lock the crank in place...
Once again my thanks to all of you!
I went ahead and ordered the replacement gear. I ended up going with a new OEM one, which was on sale. After-all, I am keeping this car for the long haul. It's only a humble 2.4 NA, but the fact that I can row my own gears makes it an awesome daily for me.I'm still scratching my head for how this one developed a crack in the first place. They shouldn't crack, but that dissuaded me from going with another used one.
At this point I'm researching for which "Amazon" toolset is decent enough to do the job. I'm even looking for used decent sets (if anyone has one feel free to PM me).
It's not that I'm uncomfortable with doing the timing belt job, I've already done it in the past; it's more the fact that to my eyes it gear looks a little offset and I am anticipating a bit of a fight to get it out, and put the new one in... Hence why I really wanted to lock the crank in place...
Once again my thanks to all of you!
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volvolugnut
- Posts: 6511
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- Year and Model: 2001 V70
- Location: Oklahoma USA
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There is no 'one set and done' tool set. There will always be new tools needed for specific jobs. I have built my tool collection in small sets purchased new and individual tools purchased new and used. Once even a barrel of used tools at an auction.
Know the better brands and seek them out for new or used purchase. A cheap tool that breaks in use will be frustrating and may get you hurt.
volvolugnut
Know the better brands and seek them out for new or used purchase. A cheap tool that breaks in use will be frustrating and may get you hurt.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.
-
volvolugnut
- Posts: 6511
- Joined: 19 Jan 2014, 09:51
- Year and Model: 2001 V70
- Location: Oklahoma USA
- Has thanked: 987 times
- Been thanked: 1076 times
vtl, what do you mean by using a coin for puller?
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
John Deere 214 lawn tractor about 1977 model
And others.
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vtl
- Posts: 4936
- Joined: 16 Aug 2012, 13:35
- Year and Model: 2005 XC70
- Location: Boston
- Has thanked: 130 times
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The recess in the crankshaft where the puller will be applying pressure - it is old, dirty and rusty.You may damage the puller and/or crankshaft. I've added a sacrificial coin for lesser friction.
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