What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[GreenVolvoGoldenDog]

Also, anyone have the part# or name identifier for this plastic part highlighted in red? Visible when disassembly of heater core components/area.

Totally didn’t lose it.

[abscate]

I think I have a spare. Pm me your address.

I’m home from Japan late Wednesday evening

O rings in the core are bad or cheap. I use Volvo here.

Hopefully my S70 is waiting for me atEWR parking

[ZionXIX]

Finishing up a heater hose replacement @ junction on the V70. No more leaks from the engine connection just above where the tran sits.

However… now getting leak @ heater core coupling assembly. Where the aluminum hoses (and new o-rings) slip into the heater core assembly and get torqued in via a T25 six point screw. (See here)

Years ago I added some copper washers to the heater core connection for a tighter seal. I did have to both drill out the inner diameter and file down the outer diameter.

20181206_111646.jpg (68.54 KiB) Viewed 576 times

[CIK7]

I have gone through my notifications preference and I cannot figure out how to turn off notifications for this thread. In other words, what did you do to your Volvo today thread?

[GreenVolvoGoldenDog]

I think I have a spare. Pm me your address.

I’m home from Japan late Wednesday evening

O rings in the core are bad or cheap. I use Volvo here.

Hopefully my S70 is waiting for me atEWR parking

Arigato! Much appreciated, I located mine - no need to send one, hopefully it can help someone who may need it more in the future — The current setup ended up becoming a core bypass by using 2 90-degree elbows and a bit of extra piping to make the heater hoses “U” while still passing the firewall.

Note to be made here, since I’m waiting for a new throttle pedal base I left the interior “unstitched” and can see the core. A U-shape bypass will need to be cut closerr to the firewall since my ‘00’s ETM/Throttle takes up more space in the footwell than the FBW.

[GreenVolvoGoldenDog]

Finishing up a heater hose replacement @ junction on the V70. No more leaks from the engine connection just above where the tran sits.

However… now getting leak @ heater core coupling assembly. Where the aluminum hoses (and new o-rings) slip into the heater core assembly and get torqued in via a T25 six point screw. (See here)

Years ago I added some copper washers to the heater core connection for a tighter seal. I did have to both drill out the inner diameter and file down the outer diameter.
20181206_111646.jpg

This is a great idea… did you keep the same pitch/thread for the T25 six-point that screws between the two openings?

[GreenVolvoGoldenDog]

I have gone through my notifications preference and I cannot figure out how to turn off notifications for this thread. In other words, what did you do to your Volvo today thread?

I’ll have to remember @ names so that I can make it one long message, apologies in advance for the inbox fill!

I am seeking a bit of brain assistance if anyone has it. Stitched up the engine last night —

Replaced: CBV diaphragm+sprg , turbo intake (plastic w ptc nipple)+vac lines refresh , turbo cooling hoses+coolant flush , +MAF that I got from jyard.

Engine ran well this morning, got up to temp and topped off until good. Made 30min drive no problem.

Disconnected battery and come back 1hr, top off coolant+ wait for temp to open thermostat to top off before beginning another 30min drive.

**driving, throttle response is muted and the car struggles to get up to speed. Transmission (auto 4spd V70XC) slow to shift, when WOT= ~3k RPM max, trouble shifting and hard to get up to even 30mph.

Found PTC nipple power disconnected+ rubber hose that connects to aluminum tubes fell off, so reconnected and reseated. Start car again but low throttle resp+idle is rough. Sounds like car is cammed.

2 more painful traffic lights w rough idle (wants to shut at idle, steady 1k in Neutral) and the car finally fails to get going. I roll through the intersection at WOT doing 5-8MPH at most and I roll into a spot to call home.

Car starts, but with all connections and hoses checked and rechecked… rough idle and throttle response is low/ no-go.

I am going back to reinstall the original MAF that the V70 had, but if this doesn’t work I will have no good guess as to why it’s limping, and a tow will be needed.

Any ideas/experiences/anecdotes would be greatly appreciated, as always!!

Edit: Got the car back home. MAF un-replacement did not help, through further investigations the rough idle and no throttle response has evolved into a crank no-start. Limp Mode before the total failure to start.


Ladies and Gents, I believe I have a faulty ETM. Will have to contact XeMODeX tomorrow and inquire. The link @ end of this post was incredibly useful in getting my commitment to this plan, I also plan to troubleshoot the Air Pump and Main Engine Relays.

viewtopic.php?t=19102

[ZionXIX]

Finishing up a heater hose replacement @ junction on the V70. No more leaks from the engine connection just above where the tran sits.

However… now getting leak @ heater core coupling assembly. Where the aluminum hoses (and new o-rings) slip into the heater core assembly and get torqued in via a T25 six point screw. (See here)

Years ago I added some copper washers to the heater core connection for a tighter seal. I did have to both drill out the inner diameter and file down the outer diameter.
20181206_111646.jpg

This is a great idea… did you keep the same pitch/thread for the T25 six-point that screws between the two openings?

Yes. No other changes were needed. The washers just give a little extra squish of the o rings. I haven't had a problem in 7 years.

[CIK7]

Today I rebuilt the fuel injectors with fresh filters and orings, replaced the pcv box (not the hoses), cleaned out the egr valve, and replaced the fuel rail oring. Somehow I managed to have one open vacuum port on IM, not vacuum tree. Maybe it was already like that. I need to refer back to vacuum routing.

[levalexi]

Replaced my front mount finally after owning the car for 6 years....

And I ordered the other 2.

I replaced the gas struts for the hatch, and tried to install a new drivers switch, but it won't go in for some reason