What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Post by **volare** » 27 Mar 2026, 21:58

I'm tempted but good, the Baja gets me around and this robo-shoulder still has several months of healing ahead before I can even dink around with it again. Appreciate you much!

levalexi · Post by **levalexi** » 28 Mar 2026, 11:16

abscate wrote: 27 Mar 2026, 06:54
My passenger side caliper is still sticking, so I got some rebuilt ones from the O'Reilly's. To my surprise they were OEM.
OEM cores, but the rebuilder can use either good or crap parts unfortunately.

Take a minute and pull the guide pins and test with a magnet for SilverCheesium(tm) - in the Pine Tree State, I would use real stainless steel pins only.

Protect the CV boot with asbestos or wood - then blast that bad boy with Mapp gas for 67 seconds before trying that extractor socket; will come with heat, verve, and élan.

Since I have used a semicolon, an Oxford comma, and an accent all in one post, I retire for the day.

I'll go get my asbestos blanket next to my smallpox blankets!

I kid!
I actually should have a piece of welding fiberglass blanket or some salmon cloth. I just need to find it.

I drove home to Maine yesterday, so worst case scenario, I just weld a nut on it.

Unfortunately when I went to start the car this morning, it stuttered and started, but died. It did this same thing 3 times before staying running. I hooked up my reader and got these

: P0332

: P0236

Like any good mechanic, I hit clear. I let it idle a bit more and shut it off. She refused to start after that.

I went inside and calmed down and came back out a bit later and she started.
No more knock code, but the p0236 stayed and was joined by a p0237

: P0236

: P0237

Maybe I was too rough when doing the motor mount the other day and fucked up some wiring?

I ordered some knock sensors just in case, and I'm going to my brother's house tomorrow to steal my throttle body pipe from my v70r.

*Edit* I'm choosing to ignore your cleverly placed 67

Post by **rolsen11** » 28 Mar 2026, 16:13

Has anyone here had issues with the 17" wiper blade size for the rear? I just changed out the old beam style blade with a conventional style blade in the same 17" size but am still having an issue with the blade sticking up over the top of the window and leaving a spot in the middle of the window that doesn't get wiped due to the blade lifting in the middle when it goes over the top. Will probably move to a smaller 15" blade or less next time.

Post by **Goupil** » 28 Mar 2026, 16:48

Started putting my engine back together, wasted a good 40min on that stupid coolant pipe gasket behind the head, then nothing wanted to work properly... Still have to time the engine tomorrow, then put everything back on, fun times !
No pics because also managed to break my phone while working on another car today

Post by **CIK7** » 28 Mar 2026, 17:34

rolsen11 wrote: 28 Mar 2026, 16:13 Has anyone here had issues with the 17" wiper blade size for the rear? I just changed out the old beam style blade with a conventional style blade in the same 17" size but am still having an issue with the blade sticking up over the top of the window and leaving a spot in the middle of the window that doesn't get wiped due to the blade lifting in the middle when it goes over the top. Will probably move to a smaller 15" blade or less next time.

16" beam is what I've used wo issue I think. The conventional might have more tension somehow.

Post by **abscate** » 29 Mar 2026, 02:56

levalexi wrote: 28 Mar 2026, 11:16
abscate wrote: 27 Mar 2026, 06:54
My passenger side caliper is still sticking, so I got some rebuilt ones from the O'Reilly's. To my surprise they were OEM.
OEM cores, but the rebuilder can use either good or crap parts unfortunately.

Take a minute and pull the guide pins and test with a magnet for SilverCheesium(tm) - in the Pine Tree State, I would use real stainless steel pins only.

Protect the CV boot with asbestos or wood - then blast that bad boy with Mapp gas for 67 seconds before trying that extractor socket; will come with heat, verve, and élan.

Since I have used a semicolon, an Oxford comma, and an accent all in one post, I retire for the day.

I'll go get my asbestos blanket next to my smallpox blankets!

I kid!
I actually should have a piece of welding fiberglass blanket or some salmon cloth. I just need to find it.

I drove home to Maine yesterday, so worst case scenario, I just weld a nut on it.

Unfortunately when I went to start the car this morning, it stuttered and started, but died. It did this same thing 3 times before staying running. I hooked up my reader and got these
20260328_102944.jpg20260328_102938.jpg

Like any good mechanic, I hit clear. I let it idle a bit more and shut it off. She refused to start after that.

I went inside and calmed down and came back out a bit later and she started.
No more knock code, but the p0236 stayed and was joined by a p0237
20260328_114828.jpg20260328_114821.jpg

Maybe I was too rough when doing the motor mount the other day and fucked up some wiring?

I ordered some knock sensors just in case, and I'm going to my brother's house tomorrow to steal my throttle body pipe from my v70r.

*Edit* I'm choosing to ignore your cleverly placed 67

Make sure you can return those knock sensors.

That’s the the king of spurious codes. Get the Volvo equivalent code of those, I think your code reader has bad data match table, which is common

Post by **scot850** » 29 Mar 2026, 09:02

With the tailgate wiper, make sure you regularly lube the pivot on the arm as well as the motor shaft where it passes through the rear screen. If the arm loses tension you will get areas where the blade does not touch.

Neil.

Post by **rolsen11** » 29 Mar 2026, 20:16

The shiftlock in my car has not worked almost the entire time I owned it, even after replacing the microswitch. Today I repaired the shiftlock by fixing a failing solder joint within the solenoid and modifying the shiftlock circuit by wiring in a relay. This way, instead of energizing the coil in the solenoid with the low power microswitch, the microswitch energizes a much smaller coil in a relay and the relay is what energizes the solenoid. This should allow the microswitch to last much longer. I may create a writeup on exactly what I did and how do do it in the future. I also bent the rocker arm of the switch slightly upwards to that it gets pressed all the way in when putting the shifter in Park, because the switch is having resistance problems when not depressed all the way (I'm going to replace this switch because of this at some point in the future probably).

Post by **abscate** » 30 Mar 2026, 03:33

rolsen11 wrote: 29 Mar 2026, 20:16 The shiftlock in my car has not worked almost the entire time I owned it, even after replacing the microswitch. Today I repaired the shiftlock by fixing a failing solder joint within the solenoid and modifying the shiftlock circuit by wiring in a relay. This way, instead of energizing the coil in the solenoid with the low power microswitch, the microswitch energizes a much smaller coil in a relay and the relay is what energizes the solenoid. This should allow the microswitch to last much longer. I may create a writeup on exactly what I did and how do do it in the future. I also bent the rocker arm of the switch slightly upwards to that it gets pressed all the way in when putting the shifter in Park, because the switch is having resistance problems when not depressed all the way (I'm going to replace this switch because of this at some point in the future probably).

I’ve got parts already of my 1999 in case you need them. We have to be a bit careful to match numbers as 1999 and 2000 are different transmussions

Post by **CIK7** » 30 Mar 2026, 05:32

abscate wrote: 30 Mar 2026, 03:33
rolsen11 wrote: 29 Mar 2026, 20:16 The shiftlock in my car has not worked almost the entire time I owned it, even after replacing the microswitch. Today I repaired the shiftlock by fixing a failing solder joint within the solenoid and modifying the shiftlock circuit by wiring in a relay. This way, instead of energizing the coil in the solenoid with the low power microswitch, the microswitch energizes a much smaller coil in a relay and the relay is what energizes the solenoid. This should allow the microswitch to last much longer. I may create a writeup on exactly what I did and how do do it in the future. I also bent the rocker arm of the switch slightly upwards to that it gets pressed all the way in when putting the shifter in Park, because the switch is having resistance problems when not depressed all the way (I'm going to replace this switch because of this at some point in the future probably).
I’ve got parts already of my 1999 in case you need them. We have to be a bit careful to match numbers as 1999 and 2000 are different transmussions

Wow those 99s and 00s really are bastards!