Power steering pump leak - o-ring?

[5rivers]

I'm back...after figuring out how to remove the bottom bolt to the thermostat housing - used a t40 bit that I ground down from 1" to 13/16" to fit in the space between the bolt head and the bracket that holds the power steering pump and alternator (I could not figure out a way to remove this bracket, and it couldbe that it is not removeable!). Also used a 1/4" ratcheting combination wrench to hold the bit in place and another wrench to apply more leverage to break the bolt loose. Had to put a few rags below the bolt in case the bit didn't want to stay in place - actually had to ground down two t40 bits, as the first one jumped out and landed somewhere (still looking for it!). The ratching combo wrench was handy to loosen the bolt a few more turns, but then had to use the open end of the wrench to eventually get the bolt out - this took a while as the small space above and below the bolt was so small, that I could move the wrench only a tiny bit before pulling it out and starting again. With the extraction of the bolt in very small increments, at a certain point I was able to move the top part of the housing to the left and that made turning the bit slightly better. As the space for the bit decreased, I began using a pair of long needle nose pliers that is bent almost 90 degrees near the end on the bolt threads below the head. The bolt came out after a dozen or so turns of the threaded part just below the bolt head. The 1/4" ratcheting combo wrench was key as the bit fit perfectly on both ends.

IMG_1118.jpeg

Now that the housing is removed, I need to clean off the old gasket (it did not seem to be broken anywhere, but the gasket for the thermostat did seem a bit irregular and this could have been the source of the coolant leakage...that led to the smoke emanating from behind the thermostat), then find some bolts with a 10mm head to replace the torx head bolts (I'm guessing these are M7 x 1.00 x 1 3/8" long from the top of the bolt head to the end of the threaded part). In one of Robert's videos on the thermostat housing removal he said a water pump bolt or a manifold bolt would work well, but these bolts are slightly shorter (by 1/16"). Is this going to be a problem? Appreciate your insight!

On the oil that was sprayed onto the top of the alternator, I am still trying to find the source of that leakage. The seam between the valve cover and the cylinder head on the left side of the motor was void of any oil. I did notice as I was cleaning the intake manifold that there seemed to be more caked on oil at the nipple area on the left side of the manifold where a small vacuum hose to/from the turbo hose is located. I did not see any drips or channels of oil underneath the thermostat housing, and the hoses attached to the PCV breather unit were void of any oil residue (although where these hoses attach to the motor, the openings needed to be cleaned as some thick oil sludge was present). I plan on using a different rubber elbow on the nipple of the manifold with a clamp to secure it on the manifold, in case that was the sight of the oil leakage, plus secure all the clamps to and from the breather unit.
I still need to take a closer look at the rear of the motor to see what kind of shape that is in, i.e., oil leakage. I am about to remove the hose that runs from the air filter to the turbo as I need to remove the camshaft sensor (gosh, there is so much in the way!) to be able to visualize the horizontal lines as the crank undergoes the two revolution procedure for a more precise timing. I've loosened the bolts to the distributor cap and will remove the cap and the rotor before starting the timing process.
I do have another power steering pump that I've cleaned up and will use it to replace the pump that is/has been on the car. Again, still trying to find the oil leakage resulting in oil being sprayed on the top of the alternator. The bottom of the power steering pump was also covered with oil like the alternator, but it was not red/pink in color, therefore not p.s. fluid (ATF fluid is used). I'll replace the p.s. pump anyway, just to be on the safe side.
Appreciate your thoughts as I attempt to solve the oil leakage source!

[5rivers]

the above pic is of the 1/4" ratcheting wrench with the t40 bit that had to be ground down about 3/16" (from its original 1" length) to fit into the space to break loose the lower bolt on the thermostat housing. I had to use an extra wrench attached to the open end to add the leverage needed to break the bolt loose. Turning the bolt in very small increments with the wrench and needle nose pliers, the bolt finally came off.
I remember replacing this housing gasket on another '98 V70 but had the cylinder head off, so it was much easier to reach and remove.
A similar size bolt with a 10mm hex head will definitely be easier to install/remove whenever the gasket next needs to be removed. The threaded portion of torx bolts used to secure the housing are 1 and 3/16" in length, but the water pump bolts are 1" - will this difference in length be problematic? I can't seem to find a similar length bolt with a hex head and the same thread size (M7 x 1.0) at the local auto stores. Maybe a search online will prove fruitful.

[5rivers]

I ordered some bolts from a place in Minnesota and will post a photo of them with the original torx head bolts removed from the thermostat housing. Once those arrive, I will begin to reinstall the housing, the new thermostat, alternator, power steering pump, etc. I need to remove the oil pump in order to remove the rounded bolt to the lower timing belt cover (!) and have a new gasket and outer o-ring for the pump and new seal for the crankshaft. I removed the coolant reservoir in the hopes of cleaning the bottom of it - there are colored deposits on the bottom. Any recommendations on what type of cleaner to use?
On the gasket for the housing, I have read that 2 gaskets are recommended, but I have only one at the moment. Do I really need 2?

[5rivers]

Greetings!
I managed to remove the oil pump from the car ostensibly to remove a rounded bolt head to the lower timing belt metal cover. There was just not enough room with the pump on to get a good grip on the bolt. As it turns out, I ended up using a bolt/nut removal socket to get the bolt loose. So, I'm about to reinstall a few parts that I removed to locate the source of the oil spray that was accumulating on the top of the alternator and bottom of the power steering pump. I have not found that source yet!
In the picture below of the motor where the oil pump is located (see all the burnt on oil?), the seal around the crankshaft does not appear to be seated properly. There is about 1/16th of inch clearance around the bottom of the seal, but the top portion is even with the outer/surface diameter of crankshaft opening. (I'll see if I can get a better picture.)
I'm not sure if I should attempt to reposition the seal so it is seated evenly around the shaft or order a replacement seal.
Any thoughts?
I'm guessing a replacement would be the best way to go, in which case, do I remove the old seal in the same way I did with the camshaft seal (drilling a screw into the seal and use plyers or vice grips to pull it out)?
Appreciate your feedback!
Hard to see the difference but enlarge the pic and look at the bottom then top of seal

the oil pump and gasket when removed:

[5rivers]

I forgot to add this pic of the rear seal:

[abscate]

I’ve never been that deep into an oil pump on a p80 before but is it possible the eccentric nature of the pump is messing up the visual? By that, I mean the pump works because the impeller spins off-center with respect to the shaft.

It’s hard to imagine the seal could walk without getting really messed up

[5rivers]

I am having problems getting the oil pump back on. If I have the pump sitting evenly on the housing and the bolts in the pump ready to be bolted in, I can't seem to apply enough pressure to the pump so the bolts catch. Is there a special process for doing this re-installation (besides having more muscle!)?
Should I install the timing belt gear and balancer and turn the nut for even pressure?
I'd have to remove the gear, balancer, and nut to install the new crankshaft seal, then re-install the gear, balancer, and nut to finish that part of the project.

[5rivers]

I finally found my rubber mallet - that helped to install the oil pump - a tap here and a tap there....finally went in, then was able to insert the bolts to secure the pump. I did notice that on the old crankshaft seal, there was some rust on the inside of the seal, the tiny circular spring also had some rust on it. It was definitely due to be replaced. Here are some pics of the new installed seal - looks like its in far enough. But appreciate your feedback on it.

On the camshaft seals, the rear of both have some oil residue - mostly dried stuff - but am wondering if I should replace them since the camshaft sensor and distributor cap are off. The only seal not showing any wear is the front exhaust camshaft seal. I ended up replacing the front intake camshaft seal thinking that was what was causing the oil spray, but it was not. I did insert the seal a little further than the original, is that going to be a problem?

Appreciate your feedback, always!

[abscate]

If the seal is in a few extra mm that’s ok. The sealing surface is pretty wide. The fronts are also easy to do if they leak



Leave the others alone if they aren’t leaking. They are also easy to do and you watch over your cars so you’ll catch them. They can easily go 150000 miles

[5rivers]

Thanks for your feedback/reply, Steve!
The car has 178k miles on it now, and the seals are Volvo ones (but I don't know if these are replacement Volvo seals since I don't know the repair history of the vehicle). So, you think its time to change them or just leave them alone for now?