Power steering pump leak - o-ring?

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 20 Apr 2026, 18:05

Pics of the oil pump installed with new crankshaft seal:

I think these pics show the seal is in the correct position.What do you think?

Post by **abscate** » 21 Apr 2026, 13:07

That looks great.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 24 Apr 2026, 20:35

Almost ready to set the timing - have the marks lined up with the upper TB cover marks, crank in line with oil pump mark, rear of both camshafts on the mark with seam. The timing belt was taught from the crank to idler pulley to intake camshaft, but was loose on other side between the water pump and exhaust camshaft. When I checked the tension between the camshaft sprockets, the exhaust camshaft moved forward, making the tension very weak with lots of play up and down.
The camshaft sprocket bolts have all been torqued.
I was able to torque the 4 bolts on the harmonic balancer, but still need to torque the crankshaft nut.
Am working on removing the starter so the crankshaft nut can be torqued.
Any ideas on what I might do next with the timing belt and/or camshaft sprockets?
Appreciate your help!

Post by **abscate** » 24 Apr 2026, 22:19

You haven’t pulled the pin yet on the tensioner, right ?? You need to turn the engine over by hand twice to move the slack out of the belt through its length , the pull the pin.

If it is the mechanical tensioner, same thing. Two full turns of engine with timing belt on all pulleys and water pump.

1998s can have either one as they switched mid model year

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 25 Apr 2026, 11:09

I have not pulled the pin on the hydraulic tensioner yet. I was trying to eliminate the slack on the belt first. But, when I turn the crank, the belt moves up between the camshaft sprockets hitting the upper timing belt cover, and as I keep moving the crank the belt tightens up between the sprockets, but then there is slack between the water pump and the exhaust sprocket. I'm not sure if I need to adjust the location of the bolts on the camshaft sprockets. The old timing belt and the new one look to be similar in length - I could remove the new belt and count the teeth on both belts to be certain!

I have watched numerous YT videos and read through quite a few posts and articles about installing a timing belt, but there were very few that went through the process of re-installing the camshaft sprockets and then installing the timing belt (those that did installed the sprockets and belt on an engine that was removed from the vehicle). None really talked about what to do if the slack could not be eliminated or in my situation, having a belt tight in one section but loose in another. I did read the article on "advance and/or retarding" location of the camshaft bolts - for a turbo, the author stated the camshaft sprockets should be as far away from each other as possible.
I will adjust the forward (intake) section of the belt so it is a little loose and see if that lessens the slack on the back (exhaust) side of the belt. I will keep you posted.
Thank you for your reply and suggestions!

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 10 May 2026, 20:38

I started over - took the timing belt off, then re-strung it around the crankshaft, compressor, idler pulley, camshaft pulleys, etc...and it worked - somehow - not quite sure how, but the belt was not loose anywhere, pulled the pin on the HT, did the two revolutions, and low and behold, everything lined up!!!
And then somehow managed to get the serpentine belt on - what a challenge that was! Spent the last week installing the alternator, power steering pump, the PCV unit (put clamps on all the hoses to be on the safe side), the intake manifold with a new gasket, the fuel rail and injectors with new o-rings, the IAC and attached hoses, vacuum lines, the turbo hoses, the air filter housing, the MAF, vacuum lines to the turbo/air snorkel, vacuum lines to the intake manifold, the brackets that hold down the fuel lines. Yet to re-install are the coolant reservior and hoses/sensor, add the coolant and some oil, put the spark plug cover back on, and am almost done.
I decided, based on the oil spray and its direction, that the hoses to the PCV breather box were not tight enough - some of the hoses were clamped to the box, but in my case, there were molded elbow-shaped rubber hoses that were not clamped to the rubber vacuum lines (I had replaced the broken OE lines/hoses with rubber vacuum lines - these both end or are attached to the end of turbo snorkel closest to the turbo). All of my adaptations seemed to be quite tight, but apparently not tight enough.
So I clamped those as well and placed two spring clamps on the nipple to the side of the IM - where the hose attaches to the elbow-shaped rubber hose and where that hose slides over the metal nipple on the side of IM - no chance of that hose coming loose or of oil leaking out!

I still have yet to figure out a way to torque the crankshaft nut without the crank pulley moving - any ideas?
I can't see spending almost $70 for a holding tool. I still have the harmonic balancer/pulley removal tool set. Is there a way I can use that to hold the crankshaft without ruining the bolt holes/threads on the balancer to the timing belt gear/pulley behind the balancer?

And one last question, I have come across a few posts and YT videos that indicate different torque values for the crankshaft nut - from 133 foot lbs plus another 90 degrees, up to 188 foot pounds. What would be the correct torque value?
Appreciate your insight and experience!
Hope you all are well and enjoyed today, May 10th with family and mom or her spirit!

Post by **abscate** » 11 May 2026, 04:16

Crank pulley specs

Center nut .................... 180 Nm

Vibration damper -2002
Flanged screws x4
Stage 1 .................... 25 Nm
Stage 2 .................... angle-tighten 30°

180 Nm is about 126 foot pounds, so a good shoulder pull on a 24 inch breaker bar. I have used the damper bolts as a counterhold to get the big nut tight , I’ve also used my small impact and then marked the nut on four axis to check it for movement over the next month. It’s never moved.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 24 May 2026, 08:51

After changing out the battery and making sure all the points were lined up (crankshaft mark and camshaft sprocket marks), I started the car!!! And it stayed running! Can you believe that?
I turned off the car after about ten minutes and once the motor was cooled I added more coolant. No leaking hoses that I could see or smell!
Still need to inflate a few tires - after sitting for three months or so, they were almost flat!
There are still studded snow tires on the car, but did have a pair of non-studded snow tires that I thought I could use.
But, they are a slightly different size - the studded tires are 195-60R15's and the non-studded tires are 195-65R15. Is it okay to run these together and if so, does it matter which tires on the front or back? or on the left versus right?
I have a set of all season tires (205-55R16), but one is not useable, so I need to replace that. But, I also need to be able to drive to the garage that is about ten miles away.
Appreciate your thoughts!
Enjoy your Memorial Day - am off the watch the local parade of veteran's, sons of veteran's, women's auxiliary, flags, etc!

Post by **abscate** » 24 May 2026, 15:41

You can run those tires mismatched fine on a FWD car. Match them side to side , same tire left and right .

The criteria for tires for getting a car to a garage 10 miles away at 45 mph are

Round
Hold air
Drive like adult
No heavy rain, snow, ice