V70 stalls when warm. Reason to suspect Fuel Pulse Damper Topic is solved

[dalel]

...
An old distributor can for sure get worn bearing and get side to side play. The gear drive at the bottom can also get worn, but that leads to poor ignition timing consistency.
volvolugnut

Yes, for sure. But OP posted concerns about the camshaft and that is almost certainly not the problem.

Just to be sure... you guys know that this engine does not have a distributor per se. It has a distributor cap and the rotor screws onto the cam.

I took the new cap off today to check for possible groves. All looks good.

Well, except for condensation. What do you guys do to make sure the cap seals? I'm going to reseat everything and screw it down again. Should I consider dielectric grease to seal the cap?... Dale

[Vova585]

"No" to dielectric grease.
Slight condensation should all be gone after engine will reach operating temperature.
Please focus on diagnostic plan of figuring out what is missing as suggested above.
Fuel- there based on gauge and fact that it starts and runs
Compression- there it starts and run good
Ignition&injector pulse-? Is only one of them missing or both during car's "no start"? Figure this first and you will have the answer where to look next.

[dalel]

"No" to dielectric grease.
Slight condensation should all be gone after engine will reach operating temperature.
Please focus on diagnostic plan of figuring out what is missing as suggested above.
Fuel- there based on gauge and fact that it starts and runs
Compression- there it starts and run good
Ignition&injector pulse-? Is only one of them missing or both during car's "no start"? Figure this first and you will have the answer where to look next.

It is not slight condensation. It is significant. Enough so that I'm surprised that it now runs (since replacing crankshaft position sensor, fuel relay, MAF sensor and most recently rotor and distributor cap.)

Previous posts state that fuel pressure was solid before, during and after stall and that there was spark after the stall. If this is all going to come down to whether or not I can give you exact compression stats, well, you win.

Look, I'm trying here and it just seems that some things are being missed. No biggie. It happens to everyone.

It now stands that I have a car that runs after a new distributor cap and rotor but I don't like the idle nor the amount of water in the distributor cap. If there is something that you are sure I have done wrong then that is great. Please be specific... Dale

[abscate]

Any moisture in the distributor is death. It will leak the HV to ground. It needs to be as dry as Death Valley inside.

[misha]

Are you sure it's just a condensation or oil vapor mist?

[dalel]

Are you sure it's just a condensation or oil vapor mist?

It was gone (evaporated?) in about an hour. So I'm kinda leaning toward water. Here's a close-up.

[erikv11]

Check if rear cam seal is dislodged. Very common for PCV issues to blow them out.

[erikv11]

...

Just to be sure... you guys know that this engine does not have a distributor per se. It has a distributor cap and the rotor screws onto the cam.

...

Yes.

Rotor does not screw into the cam per se, it screws into a metal plate. The plate screws into the cam and can be installed upside down by mistake, and still allow assembly.

[dalel]

Check if rear cam seal is dislodged. Very common for PCV issues to blow them out.

That's it. THANK YOU. You may be a genius. I'll do the glove test for PCV but it makes so much sense about the seal behind the rotor.

If that seal is allowing oil to blow through then the car will start and degrade as the oil is sprayed into the distributor cap.
I should be able to make this "moisture" form again and then, best I can think of is saturate the corner of a paper towel and see if it burns. Although, I really believe you got it. Ha, I've already checked to see if I'm going to be able to get an "intake cam seal" (if that's the wrong label you guys can correct me.) ...Dale

[abscate]

That’s a monsoon of water in your cap. It comes from combustion byproducts and will give you wonky running , a highly technical SAE term

You can alleviate it by sacrificing a oil filler cap with a fitting and hose and dumping your excess oil vapors under the car with a pipe

Warning will Robinson


If you fix the cam seal to fix the water issues and don’t fix high pcv pressure , the rear main engine seal blows next. Thats a 12-15 hour engine out/in $5 seal job totaling $500 in your garage, $2000 at your Indy, and $5000 at the dealer