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Cabin Temp Sensor Replacement + Measurements Topic is solved

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Fix Your P2 Volvo Cabin Temp Sensor – DIY Replacement + Measurements
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rolsen11
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Post by rolsen11 »

I recently replaced the cabin temperature sensor in my 2004 S60 R since at some point, somebody stuck something into the little vents in the CCM and broke one of the leads of the thermal resistor (thermistor) causing it to rest on the other lead creating a 5V short. This made the CCM throw a code and resulted in a substitute value of 25C being used as the cabin temperature at all times. This obviously made the climate controls not work very well, usually not enough AC as I want during these warmer months since I bought the car at the end of this May.

Function

The Climate Control Module (CCM) uses a thermistor to determine the temperature of the inside of the car. When the temperature increases, the resistance of the thermistor decreases and as it gets colder, the resistance increases. The CCM measures the change of resistance to determine cabin temperature and automatically adjusts the blend door, blower speed and other items according to the temperature you have set with the knobs. If you have the temp set to 70F after the car has sat in the sun for a while, the car will try to get the cabin temp down to as close to 70F as it can using the data from the cabin temp sensor. As I mentioned, if this sensor (thermistor) is broken, it substitutes a value of 25C and the climate control doesn't do a good job of managing the temperature.

Measurement

I used what is called a Resistance Decade Box to determine what resistances correspond to what temperature using VIDA software. The resistance decade box has a number of switches on it that you can flip to add any number of values together for a specific resistance value. I managed to get the leads from the old temp sensor to poke through the CCM slots so I could hook up the decade box using alligator clips. The temperature range that the CCM can measure according to VIDA is -40C to 85C. Unfortunately VIDA does not have any information on resistance values which is why I needed to do this test. I started at -40C and kept punching in resistance values until I got the correct resistance corresponding to the temperature I want to get. Here is the following table I made showing resistance for each temperature in C going up by ten with the exception of 25C (which is the base value of the resistor and VIDA as it is considered "room temperature") and 85C as it is the end of the CCM measurement range:

Degrees C-----Resistance (Ohms)
-40 -------------- 190k
-30 -------------- 114k
-20 -------------- 69k
-10 -------------- 43k
0 ----------------- 28k
10 --------------- 17.5k
20 --------------- 12k
25 --------------- 10k
30 --------------- 8.2k

40 --------------- 5.7k
50 --------------- 4.1k
60 --------------- 2.95k
70 --------------- 2.24k
80 --------------- 1.6k
85 --------------- 1.4k

The yellow highlight indicates roughly the range that you can set the temperature dials to.
Exposed leads, coating stripped off
Exposed leads, coating stripped off
Resistance Decade Box
Resistance Decade Box
Hooked up to old thermistor leads using alligator clips
Hooked up to old thermistor leads using alligator clips
Live temp readout using VIDA
Live temp readout using VIDA

Replacement

DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE REMOVING CCM IF YOU DO NOT HAVE VIDA OR A HIGH END SCAN TOOL, FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN SRS AIRBAG CODE THAT WILL NEED TO BE CLEARED

After gathering the data on resistance values, I found a similar glass bead NTC thermistor with values similar to what I measured to be as accurate as reasonably possible. I bought PN B57550G1103F000 thermistor made by TGK from DigiKey. This is a 10 kilo Ohm 32mW thermistor. It ended up being quite a bit smaller than the original thermistor so in hindsight I would recommend getting a higher mW rated thermistor, maybe 50mW or higher which is also available on DigiKey and other sites.

Here are photos of the replacement process. Read photo captions for step by step.

Removing pen holder trim piece using bone tool
Removing pen holder trim piece using bone tool
Remove both T25 screws. Clean up grime while you're in there too
Remove both T25 screws. Clean up grime while you're in there too
Slide CCM out from dash using bone tool and remove connectors
Slide CCM out from dash using bone tool and remove connectors
Back of CCM
Back of CCM
Back of CCM. This would also be a good time to replace the backlighting bulbs if some of yours are burned out
Back of CCM. This would also be a good time to replace the backlighting bulbs if some of yours are burned out
Remove 2 Phillips screws holding the cabin temp sensor fan in place and pull fan assembly straight out. Clean the dust out of this fan as well
Remove 2 Phillips screws holding the cabin temp sensor fan in place and pull fan assembly straight out. Clean the dust out of this fan as well
Remove all the other silver Phillips screws. There are plastic tabs on the top and bottom of the back cover holding it in place. Carefully unclip these with a small screwdriver and remove the cover to expose the main board
Remove all the other silver Phillips screws. There are plastic tabs on the top and bottom of the back cover holding it in place. Carefully unclip these with a small screwdriver and remove the cover to expose the main board
Carefully lift the board directly up from the CCM face
Carefully lift the board directly up from the CCM face
Front of main board
Front of main board
Broken thermistor on its own separate PCB attached to an air duct
Broken thermistor on its own separate PCB attached to an air duct
Remove thermistor PCB from air duct and remove air duct from main board. You could remove thermistor PCB from main board by desoldering the 2 wires if you wanted to, I didn't do that though
Remove thermistor PCB from air duct and remove air duct from main board. You could remove thermistor PCB from main board by desoldering the 2 wires if you wanted to, I didn't do that though
Melt the solder joints and remove remnants of the old thermistor. Tin the leads of the new thermistor (that is, melt some solder onto the leads of the new thermistor) and solder new thermistor in place. Leave a little slack for placement into the air duct
Melt the solder joints and remove remnants of the old thermistor. Tin the leads of the new thermistor (that is, melt some solder onto the leads of the new thermistor) and solder new thermistor in place. Leave a little slack for placement into the air duct
Place air duct back into main board and place thermistor PCB onto air duct
Place air duct back into main board and place thermistor PCB onto air duct

And that's it! Just reverse the steps and reassemble everything and you will have a better functioning climate control!

If you want a video tutorial, this one from MattDIY working on an XC90 is very similar.
2000 V70 SE - Bought sight unseen in Cleveland, no longer my only car. Looks identical to my profile picture
2004 S60 R - M66 "Spaceball" manual transmission, Atacama "orange" interior, Titanium Gray metallic

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

I already wrote a DIY on this topic, some years ago.
It is in the forum.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
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rolsen11
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Post by rolsen11 »

The more the merrier! I didn't see any information on this in the VRD so I figured I would make one for the fun of it. At the least, I hope the Temp-Resistance chart I made will prove useful to some since I haven't found that information anywhere yet.
2000 V70 SE - Bought sight unseen in Cleveland, no longer my only car. Looks identical to my profile picture
2004 S60 R - M66 "Spaceball" manual transmission, Atacama "orange" interior, Titanium Gray metallic

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

For anyone wondering, here's a link to Cam's replacement back in 2020 on an XC90: viewtopic.php?t=82005&start=20
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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

Curious why this is such a common failure point. Do children/wives have some fascination with shoving sharp objects into plastic grilles?
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

vtl
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Post by vtl »

br0dy519 wrote: 29 Jul 2026, 14:04 Curious why this is such a common failure point. Do children/wives have some fascination with shoving sharp objects into plastic grilles?
"Why I have no A/C? Oh, look, some sh!t is stuck in that vent! Random utube video said to clean the vents up. Let me pick that out..."

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Post by matthew1 »

vtl wrote: 30 Jul 2026, 07:43
br0dy519 wrote: 29 Jul 2026, 14:04 Curious why this is such a common failure point. Do children/wives have some fascination with shoving sharp objects into plastic grilles?
"Why I have no A/C? Oh, look, some sh!t is stuck in that vent! Random utube video said to clean the vents up. Let me pick that out..."
Yes there is lots of content out there about the sensor vent getting clogged with lint/debris/dust/etc. and to clean it. Not all of it about how to clean it with canned air/great caution.
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