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DIY: 2007 Volvo S60 VVT Hub & Cam Seals x 4 (or any P2 XC90, S80 2.5T, and 2.4 engines)

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » DIY VVT Hub & Cam Seals on P2 Models
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crasbe
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Post by crasbe »

I don't want to use this for "self advertisement", but I made cam seal drifts that you can 3D print :D

https://www.printables.com/model/127581 ... ft-9995449
https://www.printables.com/model/127581 ... ft-9995450
https://www.printables.com/model/129020 ... ft-9995718
https://www.printables.com/model/128824 ... ft-9995719

Also there are different variants you can print to press in the seal to a different depth (depending on where it makes sense to do so though).
Check out my 3D Printed Parts for Volvo P2 and P80 on Printables :D

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volvolugnut
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Post by volvolugnut »

I want to add some information on cam locking tool installation. When I did cam shaft seal replacement recently, I installed the CTA cam locking tool wrong. I mounted it with the center connecting bolt on the bottom side because this was how it seemed to align with the slots on the shafts. I wrongly thought the cams were locked so it did not matter that the tool was turned over. Problem is the cams are NOT properly aligned. I did not realize my error and completed the reassembly. I carefully turned off the engine with a wrench to check for valve interference.
The engine started and ran. Performance was off and a code P0027 was set.
I drove it this way a while and noticed fuel mileage dropped a few MPG. More reading indicated the exhaust VVT might be failing so I replaced it. No change and the P0027 returned.
I took things apart the check the cam shaft positions on the left end. No real surprise the cams were not in correct position. I correctly install the cam lock tool and corrected the cam sprocket positions.
After assembly, the engine runs fine, no codes set and performance is normal again.

A new tip for final adjustment of the VVT after the belt is installed: Loosen the 3 small adjustment screws on the hub and the internal spring will turn the hub. You can use a flat screw driver or brad puller to pry CLOCKWISE against one screw while tightening another screw. This process can get the final adjustment with all the slop out of the mechanisim. Confirm the pulley mark is still in correct position.

volvolugnut
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Chili58
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Post by Chili58 »

Hi thanks - my friend printed these +0, +1 and +2 mm tools for me. I have issue with oil leak.

Chili58
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Post by Chili58 »

This is very educating for VVT and its oil leak understanding purposes.

I have now struggled days with leak behind a new VVT-sprocket without success. Now I'll try to use RTV sealant on outer side of the axel seal. Hope that solves it.

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Post by matthew1 »

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Chili58
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Post by Chili58 »

Is it really needed to align VVTs according to marks it has? As I see it, there is no need for that, if the cams are locked - as they are when VVT is loosened/installed.

The minor dot/mark is obviously used at factory process when assembling engine. The VVT works not depending on its position.

Or do I miss something there?

The four holes at the end of cam - do they have to match with the four holes in VVT?

dikidera
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Post by dikidera »

volvolugnut wrote: 15 May 2026, 08:51 I want to add some information on cam locking tool installation. When I did cam shaft seal replacement recently, I installed the CTA cam locking tool wrong. I mounted it with the center connecting bolt on the bottom side because this was how it seemed to align with the slots on the shafts. I wrongly thought the cams were locked so it did not matter that the tool was turned over. Problem is the cams are NOT properly aligned. I did not realize my error and completed the reassembly. I carefully turned off the engine with a wrench to check for valve interference.
The engine started and ran. Performance was off and a code P0027 was set.
I drove it this way a while and noticed fuel mileage dropped a few MPG. More reading indicated the exhaust VVT might be failing so I replaced it. No change and the P0027 returned.
I took things apart the check the cam shaft positions on the left end. No real surprise the cams were not in correct position. I correctly install the cam lock tool and corrected the cam sprocket positions.
After assembly, the engine runs fine, no codes set and performance is normal again.

A new tip for final adjustment of the VVT after the belt is installed: Loosen the 3 small adjustment screws on the hub and the internal spring will turn the hub. You can use a flat screw driver or brad puller to pry CLOCKWISE against one screw while tightening another screw. This process can get the final adjustment with all the slop out of the mechanisim. Confirm the pulley mark is still in correct position.

volvolugnut
This happens easily actually, it happened to me too, except I installed the exhaust cam I believe 180 degrees out of phase and even managed to torque down the cam cover. It was only after the valve clearance check did I see the issue, luckily if you move the crank and turn the cam, it will go back without reinstallation.

Also, the newer VVT hubs do not have springs.

Chili58
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Post by Chili58 »

All solved! Leaking was caused, because there was a tiny black piece of dry silicon close to the intake cam's front axel seal. I noticed that from my old photo now. I just took the cover off, and installed all normal way again - and no leak anymore. No idea where it had dropped there.

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