Power steering issue- 04 V70R

[Redbox]

Hi All,
My V70R has been off the road for a while with a leaking power steering line. I just finished repairing it and took it for a test drive. The fluid level is good, and no leaks that I can see. The steering works fine when driving, but at idle there is little or no assist. Rev it up just a little and it comes back. I did turn the wheel lock to lock many times after getting it back together. It all worked fine before the repair.
And just to add insult to injury, the "No Oil Pressure" message started coming up at idle too.

Anyone have any tips?

[jonesg]

idling too low ?

[Redbox]

Idle seemed normal. Around 750.

[RickHaleParker]

How old is the fluid?

1. Old fluid: Viscosity Loss, Contamination, Moisture Absorption can induce these symptoms.
2. Air bubbles: Is the fluid foaming? Would reduce the energy transfer efficiency.
3. Loose Belt or worn belt: The pump would run slow.

Weak pump can also induce these symptoms. Seals leaking, worn parts.

[Redbox]

Since I had the leak, I'm sure all the fluid is fresh and I didn't see any foaming in the fluid tank. Pump worked fine before. I've read that there is a valve of some kind in the pump that can clogged. I don't know if that's anything you can access or if the pump has to be removed and taken apart to get to that.

[RickHaleParker]

I've read that there is a valve of some kind in the pump that can clogged. I don't know if that's anything you can access or if the pump has to

It is right there on the high pressure side. You don't need to remove the pump to get to it.

1. Protect the Alternator: Place a thick plastic trash bag or heavy shop rags directly underneath the power steering pump. Fluid leaking into the alternator will short it out.

2. Remove the Pressure Fitting: Disconnect the high-pressure line using an 18mm wrench (or 16mm depending on factory vs. aftermarket lines) to hold the line flare nut, while using a backup wrench on the pump adapter fitting. Unscrew the large hex adapter fitting from the topside of the pump housing.

3. Extract and Clean: Use a telescoping magnet tool to pull out the internal spring and the flow control valve plunger. Inspect the small metering orifices on the sides of the plunger. Use compressed air and brake cleaner to blast out any trapped metal shavings or hard varnish.

4. Test the Bore fit: Drop the cleaned valve back into the empty pump bore without the spring. Use a clean tool to push it down. If it drags or binds before hitting the bottom, the pump's aluminum housing bore is scored, and the pump must be replaced. *

* If you know what you are doing and have the tools. You might be able to hone the bore and save the pump. But that is a might, not a sure thing.

[Redbox]

That sounds very promising, thank you so much for that. I had to saw off the line in two places and file the ends, so some shavings are possible.

[jonesg]

I had to saw off the line in two places and file the ends, so some shavings are possible.

ugh...could be the rack has a scratched bore now.
I just swapped a new rack in 3 weeks ago .

[RickHaleParker]

I had to saw off the line in two places and file the ends, so some shavings are possible.

Ooooh Nooooo! .......... Use Pipe cutters and Tubing Cutters for hydraulic lines.

[Redbox]

Hi- I got sidetracked installing a gas tank in another car, so I'm just getting back to the Volvo. When I start the car the steering works. When I drive it, the steering works but when I let off the gas to pull in a driveway or anything, and the engine goes to idle, no steering unless I get the RPM's up around 2k.I was optimistic about the instructions given regarding the valve cleaning, but when I look at the pump I'm not seeing the parts mentioned. Confused on where to go from here.