2008 S40 2.4I B5244S4 Auto Trans 188k.
Back story, timing belt changed, a month later I started getting the P0012 camshaft over retarded code. Changed out the complete VVT solenoid (not just the top) and the camshaft position sensor. Problem kept returning so I took it to the stealership to re-time it as it was off one tooth. One would assume that meant advancing it one tooth.
Dealer called and told me the job was done and asked if I was aware that the car had very little power and now it had a misfire. I had to really gas it to get it to move to get it on the trailer, got it home and filled the tank with 93 gas since it was sitting for a couple months. Hoping that would take care of the misfire that just started. It did after a few cycles. Right after the misfire was cleared up, I started getting P0011 camshaft over advanced. So now I am over advance but if I go back one tooth the timing is retarded.
As I was driving it down the road I came to a stop and the car started chugging and went into what I fell was limp mode. It would chug and almost stall, even when the accelerator was pushed. I got it home by clearing the CEL and was able to drive just as long as I did not come to a stop or let the RPMs down. Now at this point I am getting the following message "anti-skid service required" and the car stalls. So, the P0011 has not come back but I keep getting the following.....
Anti-skid service
*P0036
*P0039
*P081C
*P1719
Per other threads with the 39/39 CEL it was advised to change out the crankshaft position/RPM sensor. I did that last night, no change. WTH!!!
Not sure if its helpful, when I clear the CEL, the car will start normally and engine will run briefly, then chug to almost a stall. If I hold down the accelerator and keep the RPMs up its fine, when you let off of it, that's all she wrote.
Thank you in advance for anyone help!
Sean
P0336 AND P0339
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Vova585
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1- what parts you used? If not used oem, or new oe or oem- most likely junk. Do not rely on any electrical items that were bought from ebay, amazon- junk(unless from verifiable store like tasca etc).
2. If you replaced the sensors with quality units and still the same problem. Inspect the timming notches at crank and cam. Make sure there is no rust and the gap between sensor and cam/crank is ok.
3. If you erase the codes and car for a brief moment runs great- likely your mechanical parts are all good as well as injectors, coils, pump.
4. I would disregard antiskid now and concentrate on drivability now.
5. The most ideal scenario would be to have someone with proper scope to look at your car. 2 channel scope at crank and cam shafts will help you see if the belt installed correctly, you can see the quality of the signal and which signal is possibly faulty. I would rather pay for expert diagnosis like that, than to throw parts at it(unless you have a salvage yard nearby that has plenty of Volvo parts for cheap and you dont need car running asap).
If you close to PA border, PHAD(pine hollow auto diagnostic) can be a possibility to solve this mistery vs asking dealer to try again.
2. If you replaced the sensors with quality units and still the same problem. Inspect the timming notches at crank and cam. Make sure there is no rust and the gap between sensor and cam/crank is ok.
3. If you erase the codes and car for a brief moment runs great- likely your mechanical parts are all good as well as injectors, coils, pump.
4. I would disregard antiskid now and concentrate on drivability now.
5. The most ideal scenario would be to have someone with proper scope to look at your car. 2 channel scope at crank and cam shafts will help you see if the belt installed correctly, you can see the quality of the signal and which signal is possibly faulty. I would rather pay for expert diagnosis like that, than to throw parts at it(unless you have a salvage yard nearby that has plenty of Volvo parts for cheap and you dont need car running asap).
If you close to PA border, PHAD(pine hollow auto diagnostic) can be a possibility to solve this mistery vs asking dealer to try again.
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Vova585
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Help me understand..you invested 3k into a car, you are having problems and not able to solve it on your own. And you much rather keep spending money(or send it to the crusher) but not to pay for a professional diagnostic? Sorry, but i dont know anyone with access to vida/dice, alldata, pico scope or similar who would be willing to work for $50. "Quality job is not cheap. Cheap work is not quality work" something like that.
Why would I want to sink another grand into a car that is only worth $1000? I will put in a sensor or continue checking wiring but I will not pay thousands more to scope it. Its not worth it!
If its work I can do with some advice then great. Spending lots more money for labor, no.
If its work I can do with some advice then great. Spending lots more money for labor, no.
Update
I changed the crank sensor twice, both were brand new Delphi's and even swapped one from a working s40. Still the only code i get is the 336/339.
What I had discover yesterday out of being pissed. Have to clear the code otherwise it goes directly in to limp mode every time. As soon as I start it I have to keep my foot on the gas and keep it around 2k and up. If I keep it like that for a few minutes and let off the accelerator it will stay idle. As its idling it will occasional chug but they are like very small burps.
If I start it and dont keep the revs up for a bit, it will p0336/9 and go into limp mode and keep doing it every time I clear the code.
Curious, will a quasi failing fuel pump cause this? According to both my scanners, I always have 55ish at the rail.
I changed the crank sensor twice, both were brand new Delphi's and even swapped one from a working s40. Still the only code i get is the 336/339.
What I had discover yesterday out of being pissed. Have to clear the code otherwise it goes directly in to limp mode every time. As soon as I start it I have to keep my foot on the gas and keep it around 2k and up. If I keep it like that for a few minutes and let off the accelerator it will stay idle. As its idling it will occasional chug but they are like very small burps.
If I start it and dont keep the revs up for a bit, it will p0336/9 and go into limp mode and keep doing it every time I clear the code.
Curious, will a quasi failing fuel pump cause this? According to both my scanners, I always have 55ish at the rail.
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This makes me think component or connection between components. Works when warm = thermal expansion closing an electrical gap.sekeraksm wrote: 04 Jun 2026, 11:56 As soon as I start it I have to keep my foot on the gas and keep it around 2k and up. If I keep it like that for a few minutes and let off the accelerator it will stay idle. As its idling it will occasional chug but they are like very small burps.
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scot850
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Check the MAF and the Throttle body. I chased a similar issue with a 07 C30. Each time I fixed one previous mechanics sloppy work another mole jumped up to be wacked. I worked with the dealer as I could into get my Vida to read the live data from the car, but they did with theirs.
Ultimately the issue turned out to be the TB. This was a relatively new aftermarket one a repair shop had fitted. I gave the dealer a good used one I have and that was the issue solve. The TB had failed internally.
Car would run fine for a while and often after say a 10km it would start to run rough while backing into the garage.
Neil.
Ultimately the issue turned out to be the TB. This was a relatively new aftermarket one a repair shop had fitted. I gave the dealer a good used one I have and that was the issue solve. The TB had failed internally.
Car would run fine for a while and often after say a 10km it would start to run rough while backing into the garage.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
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2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
Well, i made some progress.
I found that if i clear the code, start the car and immediately put it in gear it will run and go.
However, if i start it and give it a second or two to think about it, it goes in to limp mode with the 336/9 code.
I found that if i clear the code, start the car and immediately put it in gear it will run and go.
However, if i start it and give it a second or two to think about it, it goes in to limp mode with the 336/9 code.
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