Key won't go to position II after heater core??? Topic is solved

[beewstew]

Ok, just finished with heater core R&R and everything is back together. I can't get the key to move past position 1? Is there some kind of idiot lock I forgot to trip? Reminds me a little of when you need to turn the wheel a little to get the ignition to start - I think this is sometimes a towing feature?

Edit: is it possible that when the steering column was out the tumbler was damaged, eg ? viewtopic.php?t=67531

[chrism]

Did you pull the steering column out when you replaced the heater core?

[beewstew]

Yes, I had the steering column all the way out per the charm instructions. I thought I followed the "Installing the steering wheel lock module
" part properly, but not the key won't turn. Related, I can't pull VIDA codes if the key won't go into position 2.

https://charm.li/Volvo/2004/XC70%20L5-2 ... ir/L.H.D./

[chrism]

I replaced three heater cores on our S80 and V70 and never removed the steering column. I’ll admit the column does present some obstruction to the core’s R and R which results in “some” damage to the fins on the lower side of the core. A thin sheet metal or plastic strip, cut to the same width of the core, can act as a sort of “shoehorn” to minimize that damage while sliding the new core in.

Maybe someone else with steering column experience will offer up some advise on that lock issue.

Before you fully insert the column is it possible to turn the key to retract the locking pin?

[beewstew]

Yeah, I can see now why it wouldn't be necessary to remove the steering column. Tight fit but it could have worked.

Yeah the key worked just fine before I took everything apart

[abscate]

Sounds like the trans interlock isn’t back in right, pretty clearly

[beewstew]

Just making sure we're talking about this flexible cable being shoved all the way and clicked into the barrel where you turn the ignition key?

[beewstew]

Just making sure I'm thinking about the right thing. There's a semi-rigid cable that's flexible that clicks into place in the back of the key cylinder.

Key has to be in position 1 to shove that all the way into the barrel and then key should rotate to position two or three even if the power is off?

[beewstew]

Thanks for the suggestions. Problem seems to be resolved. There was some kind of goofiness in the lock cylinder box so I followed an old comment and used a Dremel and a screwdriver to remove the metal plate on the bottom. a spring fell out and then the key turned and then the car started. I'm calling it good as the boy needs to go to school tomorrow

[volvolugnut]

I have to wonder how many of the 20 year old Volvos have steering lock bypass now.
Mine does.
volvolugnut