Hot rotor, hot caliper, hot rim… Hot Wheel! Topic is solved

TisMe · Post by **TisMe** » 12 Sep 2026, 15:36

Howdy folks!

It’s been a while.

ugh.

Passenger rear hot wheel…

I put on a remanned caliper (shiny greased pins), replaced the wheel bearing with TRQ, installed a used 80K OEM axle, uhh… that’s all the typical problem children, yes?

So, what’s left? A collapsed brake hose liner? That hose fitting is stuuuuck. How do I know? I have new lines I tried to install.

Old fluid? ABS failure? The 3 amigos ARE present.

Is it due to wonky alignment from having to do a triple-jack ratchet strap system to realign the trailing arm with the wishbone? Photo included.

It’s not the brake shoes; when I went to install new hardware somehow the cable magically shortened.

Gosh, the internet is making my head reel over this. I’m gonna go beat on the front end wheel bearings with a 15lb maul while we mull this over.

Please send help and any thoughts of direction.

I missed y’all. Abundant blessings to ye!

Trevor

Post by **cn90** » 12 Sep 2026, 22:23

A seized RR brake can be caused by:

1. Seized caliper (but you installed a new caliper).

2. Internal swelling of brake hose. If you want to remove the brake hose, consider some heat.
This was discussed in P80 forum at length.

3. Stuck valve inside the ABS hydraulic module. Try to bleed it again.

Post by **cn90** » 12 Sep 2026, 22:23

Avoid parts by TRQ, mostly Chinese stuff.

Post by **chrism** » 13 Sep 2026, 12:28

“….So, what’s left? A collapsed brake hose liner? That hose fitting is stuuuuck. How do I know? I have new lines I tried to install.
Old fluid? ABS failure? The 3 amigos ARE present…”

If you were able to bleed the line with no problem then it’s “likely” the problem lies in the caliper vs somewhere upstream.

Test:
Have an assistant firmly press the brake pedal and then let up.
Confirm the pads are still dragging (or totally locked).
Open the bleeder.
If it frees the rotor then the problem is upstream.
If it DOESN’T free the rotor then the problem lies in the caliper.

Post by **scot850** » 13 Sep 2026, 13:54

A friend recently had 2 bad remann'd one after another. They physically would not bleed. I sent him to the junkyard to pull a used OE unit and then the car bled the brakes no issue. So no guarantee the 'new' unit is good.

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 13 Sep 2026, 17:26

Hit the metal part of the hose with propane for 30 seconds, that will free it up

Make sure flame doesnt hit stuff that burns

TisMe · Post by **TisMe** » 13 Sep 2026, 18:03

Thank you, fellas. I look forward to finishing the front end to return to the aforementioned rear.

TRQ is Chinesium? Duly noted, cn90. Looks like my front will be an active experiment for the longevity of their bearings & axles. Speaking of axles; is this driver front acceptable?

It really does not want to come back out. hah. About to go “drive it out” after I get a couple things required for frontal completion... like the missing brake shield bolt that causes quite a clatter… if not for that, I could consider passenger front to be complete after just 2.5 active hours.

This impact converter chose a new life while removing the driver shock “spindle” with a ratchet & breaker.

If also not for that, I may have completed both fronts today. Thankfully I’m near completion & can visualize the light again.

Actual note to original post: the remanned caliper bled just fine. Nonetheless I will certainly revisit that while perusing the rear.

Many thanks for the advice & anecdotes, everyone! I am happy to accept any further contemplations.

Post by **abscate** » 13 Sep 2026, 22:32

I dont think that is seated. USe the original circlip, the replacement ones arent shaped right. Use Grease to paste the circlip centered on the axle shaft and it will pop in , with no visible gap between shiny metal showing

Yeah, 3/8 stuff is too small for breaking bolts free on front suspension. The power of heat. Propane heat breaks the bond of stuck threads much better than any torque device. Use liberally

Heat got this suspension apart without broken fasteners or tools.

Post by **scot850** » 14 Sep 2026, 08:42

I have broken 2 x 1/2" 24" Breaker bars in the past trying to undo, then torque the front axle nuts on a -98 P80 axle nut. I moved to impact guns after that. Much easier to work with.

That axle looks fully home, but like Abscate says you have to be careful with the aftermarket C-clips on the LHF axle. I have had one come out on an axle after re-booting an axle and using the supplied clip. I removed it and re-fitted the original.

As to removing, I use a cold chisel between the transmission and the axle and usually a few taps with a 2lb hammer and the pop out. I find sometimes I have to rotate the axle to get it to come out to get the C-clip in a position where it wants to come out.

Careful not to damage the casing.

Most axles are now made in China. I don't think they are any worse than those made anywhere else, or reman'd ones. They are all pretty poorly done for the most part. I prefer to replace the boots and repack the originals.

Good Luck!

Neil.

Post by **DavidE7** » 14 Sep 2026, 11:30

Did you check to verufy the parking brake isn't sticking? I have had three stuck cables and two rusted expander mechanisms so far this year (mostly from a V70R that had been parked for 5 years). If the disk rotor won't slide off the parking brake pads nice and easy with the brake lever released, something is sticking. I have a person pull the lever while I watch the drum pads expand to see where the sticking is happening. Either the pivot on the expander is binding from rust or the cable is rusting and binding on the inside of the cable housing. Several years ago I had problems with the frinction material detaching from the brake pads.