94 850 Turbo keeps cutting out

[confused_al]

...obviously dont want to take it to a dealer...

I dont want to pay stealer $125/Hr either, but they do have better system, namely hardware interface with your car. Wouldn't you think they might have better chance to track the problem down fast?

Good Luck!

[calbrit01]

Ok folks, I got the problem resolved. I found an independent mechanic in my area, well 40 miles away, but it was well worth the cost of the tow truck. The regular mechanic gave up; I had the car towed up to a guy in Escondido [for anyone in my area interested] on Tuesday night. He worked on it Wednesday, and called me 8:00am Thursday, saying it was fixed. Turned out to be a "Hall Sensor" whatever that is, but something to do with exhaust cam position?

Anyway, after also replacing the two CV joint boots that were also gone, its going to cost me $850.00. Well next time I think I will take it to him first, if I can't do it myself, as with hire cars etc while the other guy messed about with it this is going to set me back best part of $1500.00.

I am hoping this is pretty rare and I just got unlucky, cause despite loving the car, this experience has me thinking something less high maintenance/more reliable like Japanese.

Sal

[calbrit01]

I picked the car up last night, and well basically its a different car - it has tons of extra power, and the change is now very smooth. Talking to the Volvo guy he says that is a typical experience as these sensors deteriate over time, and as they play a part in ignition timing and engine speed sensing you may not notice a loss of performance over time. Well I don't recall the car ever performing this well - I was pleased with it before, now its like having a new car. So I am sticking with Volvo for the forseeable future, and anything I can't fix myself I am taking to the specialist.

On another tack, he mentioned the hydraulic mounts will need changing sometime in the future, as they are beginning to leak - anyone done this job, is it difficult /how long does it take/any write up ?

Cheers

SAL

[MadeInJapan]

They are a pain but if they're leaking then it won't be long before you have metal to metal and that's no fun...lots of vibrations and noise. To do the repair, you basically keep a jack under the oil pan (with 2x4) and unbolt and lower the rear sub frame with another jack...replace the hydraulic mount, then do the same for the front of the sub frame and replace that one too...it's the hard one to reach. www.fcpgroton.com sells both of the mounts- in fact they may be identical- can't remember.
Just make sure they are leaking. As good as this tech is, he might be trying to make some more $...I though his prices were a bit high from what you posted but then again, there's nothing like driving a car that feels new again.

[calbrit01]

Thanks MIJ, I will check that out. He charged me a total of $850.00 to replace the sensor and to replace both CV joint boots. I thought it was a bit high, until I got a new expansion tank off him and realized it was an OEM part, so all the parts were dealer parts with the sensor being $220.00 (ouch).

Anyway, I thought the Hall sensor was a good one to mention on the forum, as I had never heard of that as a potential issue with the non-starting problem - another one for the repair database maybe, may just help another owner keep a full head of hair...

[Ozark Lee]

Anyway, I thought the Hall sensor was a good one to mention on the forum, as I had never heard of that as a potential issue with the non-starting problem

The Hall sensor is the same as the camshaft position sensor - just a different name since it is a Hall effect device. I'm glad you resolved the problem.

...Lee

[calbrit01]

Now that is interesting, I was under the impression it was different device, as the previous mechanic claimed that was one of the parts he replaced - guess I should have known better when he told me he was using scrap yard parts, ah well. Nice to know it was one of the stock faults, though.

SAL