99 S70 fuel rail removal

ddb307 · Post by **ddb307** » 04 Jan 2009, 15:58

I wasn't sure where the IAC valve was located exactly but I checked everything thoroughly and tried what you suggested. Yet still having the same problem. This time I took it to local parts store and had the ODBII codes pulled and there were six codes. Two were P0135(O2 sensor), then there was two P1026, a P1031, and a P1026(which all read Mnfctr cntrl fuel air metering.) If you have any insight or idea it'd be greatly appreciated. Oh I also had him reset the codes, upon which the car stalled when he attempted to crank it. I started it and it ran as before-slightly high but rough idle and lacking power. Drove it home and disconnected battery to try and start again with the ignition in the II position.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 04 Jan 2009, 16:08

Your symptoms still sound like a vacuum hose is disconnected- this will set a false positive on the 02 sensors (which don't tend to fail suddenly) and will also give fuel/air mixture codes. I hate it for you but if you can't find the vacuum leak, you're in for taking the intake manifold back off and checking it and everything under it.

Btw, did you use vaseline on the o-rings when you pushed them back into the engine? Without it, you might not have a good seal and thus an air leak (not to mention a gas leak) and the codes you're getting.

Post by **tom39** » 04 Jan 2009, 17:04

98 S70 T5.
Not trying to hijack your topic at all, but how do you know when you need to change your pcv system. I have 155k on the motor, I have no smoke from the dip tube and no pressure from the filler cap. But if a line is broken off or cracked feeding into the top of the collector container, would I have pressure? Is there a suggested time or milage suggestion for replacment or is it a "They usually tend to go bad at about ? miles" kinda thing?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 04 Jan 2009, 17:49

No problem at all...you have the same care as me...typically, it's at or right under 100K miles that the PCV needs replacing. Certainly, depending on where your vacuum leak is disconnected (or broken) you might not register positive pressure. It's best to check all of your lines even if you don't have the symptoms (nice thing is you probably haven't and won't be replacing the engine's main rear seal anytime soon due to the lack of positive pressure- so far I've been able to avoid this too!). That said, if you use synthetic oil and it's been used most of, if not the life of your T5, and it's been changed religiously, this seems to help a great deal and you might not have any issue at all. However....with the years that your car has been on the road, I would say that the small rubber vacuum hoses have become brittle from age and heat and could go any time- keep an eye on them. At the sign of your first break, I would do the entire system. I did mine at around 125K miles...I was the second owner and have no idea about what kind of oil it had in it but changed over to Mobil-1 synthetic oil from day 1 of my ownership at 90K miles.

ddb307 · Post by **ddb307** » 05 Jan 2009, 21:27

Just updating. Tried the vaseline on the o-rings and seals to see if that's where the leak was, but it didn't change anything. Also got some fuel. Ordered the o-ring kit just to be safe(actually I think I damaged one pulling the rail out this last time.). Taking everything back off in the morning to try and refit. I have a few question before I do it again. Should I renew the gasket(intake manifold) again? And could there be any sensors that failed because my system wasn't running its cleanest? Also I wanted to be more descriptive of my symptoms just in case you have more insight. The car won't rev higher than 4000 rpms. It also doesn't shift up very well-especially under load(driving up a hill.). Besides that I guess I'll be hopping to it in morning-thanks again.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 05 Jan 2009, 21:39

Certainly don't need to renew the intake gasket at this point. I really don't know what to tell you at this point. Cam position sensor is plugged in...and all ok? That would be a no-start condition though...Did you say you checked the MAF or not...don't remember at this point.

EDIT: Just read back through the entire thread (these all start getting jumbled in my head after awhile)...so now I understand that the symptoms you're having were present before the PCV system was done- I guess I wasn't catching that before. Definitely could be a MAF issue. Just unplug it and see if your car runs better- if it does, it's that- you can try cleaning it but you might need a new one. To clean it, just spray it down w/ MAF cleaner (auto parts store), or I've heard that even brake cleaner will work...don't touch the element inside of it- just let it drip dry and then see if things improve. All of these things- small hoses disconnected or broken, bad MAF sensor, bad 02 sensor(s) can cause the same codes and same rough idling.

ddb307 · Post by **ddb307** » 07 Jan 2009, 12:40

Car still idling bad, revs to approx 3500 rpm at max, and still seems to be a vacuum leak. Took everything back off yesterday (3rd time) all hoses and sensors are reconnected not leaking. However, it still appears that the intake manifold is not mating up tightly with the engine(looks like fluid ran down front of motor over gasket.) Upon further inspection I think I see what happened and its a major screw up on my part. The second time I took it off I was trying to get a good seal when I put it back on and tightened it way past specified torque. Looking at it yesterday I see where the lower bolts actually cut into the slots on the intake manifold and same for the top bolt closest to drivers side. I put everything back on and only tightened it to specified torque hoping for the best, but getting the same vacuum leaking result. Do you have any insight on fixing this botched repair?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 07 Jan 2009, 20:17

I guess you're in for a new intake manifold gasket. This discussion took place on another board and the consensus (though a few years ago) was that FCPG's gasket was problematic. You might try Napa (locally) to see if they have one- if not, then http://www.eeuroparts.com (buy some filters and such to make shipping worth while) and avoid the one from FCP if that's where you got the first one....and make sure of your torque specs. You do know that there are also spacers at the top of the fuel injectors (besides the 0-ring) right?

ddb307 · Post by **ddb307** » 07 Jan 2009, 21:12

Yeah, I got my gasket from the local volvo dealership, there was also an o-ring kit including the spacers that they sold me when I asked for o-rings. I did notice this gasket was paper and the original was a metal one. Anyway, I'm worried about the damage caused to the engine block threads. Do you think that there are any ways to salvage this intake manifold-using washers or something to that effect?

ddb307 · Post by **ddb307** » 29 Jan 2009, 14:28

Recapping again before my newest post. Couple months ago car idled roughly upon start lack of power and surged on occassion-especially low idle in gear. Opened hood checked vacuum hoses and connection and discovered disconnected melted hose elbow on passenger side of motor as well as broken PCV pipe assembly. Renewed PCV system completely and cleaned PTC nipple; renewed intake gasket and reassembled. Still have same symptoms as in beginning with rough idle, etc. Taken it all apart four times now, renewing intake manifold twice out of the four. This last time disassembling I checked spark plugs and they all seem to have had oil on the threads, does anyone know what this means and could new plugs fix my problems or even been the cause initially?

99 S70 fuel rail removal

Re: 99 S70 fuel rail removal