850 frustration
850 frustration
Thanks for the great site. We just bought a 95 850 GLT with 60,000 org miles for $4500.00. This car was owned by seasonal homeowners so it sat out in the sun for nine months out of the year. Carfax report came back ok. Exterior and interior are in good shape. I had it looked at by a mechanic in the area where the car was for sale before I bought it. He said there was nothing wrong with it but it needed a tune up. So I took it my mechanic and had a tune up. He replaced fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, cap, rotor, rear brake disks and pads and serp belt. Ran fine. After two weeks we noticed the idle would go from 1000rpm then rev up to 2500, hold there for a second, bounce around and then return to 1000rpm. So I took it back to my mechanic and he, replaced the idle control valve, throttle switch, throttle body gasket and put some injector cleaner in. It
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matthew1
- Site Admin
- Posts: 14493
- Joined: 14 September 2002
- Year and Model: 850 T5, 1997
- Location: Denver, Colorado, US
- Has thanked: 2660 times
- Been thanked: 1254 times
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Check trans fluid. If it's not pink, and it smells burnt, change it. Then determine if it's slipping. If it still slips, chances are it's going. It's not up to the level of the rest of the car, as are a few other things like the AC system.
Idling - check mass airflow sensor and or throttle body for gunk.
Search this forum for tons of stuff on both items, and maybe even fuel filling.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/search.php
Idling - check mass airflow sensor and or throttle body for gunk.
Search this forum for tons of stuff on both items, and maybe even fuel filling.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/search.php
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post
Also -> Amazon link. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!
1998 V70, no dash lights on
1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace
2004 V70 R [gone]
How to Thank someone for their post
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Smash2
Probably not great news for your dollar, but read ahead if you wish.
I bought a 94 with 70K on it in May, and have had only the usual bulbs out, loose interior fittings, etc that I've had on other older cars. I am slowly replacing worn bushings/boots etc but I do all my own work - probably would not buy a 10yr old 850 if I couldn't.
In sum, looks like you got maybe a not so great 850. If you do have a tranny problem and want someone else to do the work, yep it'll cost you a grand at least. On the other hand, you have to get it running OK to at least sell it to someone else for a loss - so you are gonna be out 2-3K if you sell it (and have no car) or you could throw another 2-3K into it and still be OK.
There are a lot of $4000 Camry's and Grand Prix's out there - tough to get a really well cared for cheap European car IMO.
Good luck. Great thing about these forums (I visit the ones for all my cars (durangoclub.com, corvetteforum.com) and they are awesome...) is it gives you a million buds to ask questions to, if you are up for DIY.
I bought a 94 with 70K on it in May, and have had only the usual bulbs out, loose interior fittings, etc that I've had on other older cars. I am slowly replacing worn bushings/boots etc but I do all my own work - probably would not buy a 10yr old 850 if I couldn't.
In sum, looks like you got maybe a not so great 850. If you do have a tranny problem and want someone else to do the work, yep it'll cost you a grand at least. On the other hand, you have to get it running OK to at least sell it to someone else for a loss - so you are gonna be out 2-3K if you sell it (and have no car) or you could throw another 2-3K into it and still be OK.
There are a lot of $4000 Camry's and Grand Prix's out there - tough to get a really well cared for cheap European car IMO.
Good luck. Great thing about these forums (I visit the ones for all my cars (durangoclub.com, corvetteforum.com) and they are awesome...) is it gives you a million buds to ask questions to, if you are up for DIY.
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UncleBoost
- Posts: 79
- Joined: 11 December 2004
- Year and Model: 855 R, 1996
- Location: Jamestown, NC
<----------1st, Lets see what Volvo Engineers are up to today!!
Welcome to the world of Volvo man.
You are the Mirror image of me since I bought a volvo 850 turbo wagon for $3300 with 188k on it for the same reason you did. I needed a dependable car to carry me 160 miles round trip each day.
Volvos are a learning machine. You either lovem or hatem.
I hate mine when its not right and love it when it is right.
Keep coming here and doing your own work and stop paying greedy mechanics who claim to be Volvo Mechanics but consult a book or computer program (ALLDATA) to find a cure for your problems. The best way to appreciate your Volvo it get in there and Dig, read posts on the sites such as this one, Volvospeed.com, Brickboard.com, Turbobricks.com even may have some 850 postings. This is how I keep my volvos going. I own 3 Volvos (Do I need a bullet put through my head or what???)
88 740 turbo wagon, 87 740 gle wagon, and my 850turbo wagon. Love to hatem. The 87 740GLE wagon has proven to be most reliable!
230k miles.
When I read your post about the all the work youve had done, and Gasoline pouring out of the tank, it sounded like Deja-vu for me since I had the same problems. This information I am about to share will probably cure 90% of the problems you are having with the Idling shooting up and ramping up and down when it feels like it. I too was told it was the Idle Control Valve and spent $130 for a new one. Guess what. I paid a Mechanic $40 to tell me that. NO FIXXY!!!!
I had the exact same problems. The Fix?
First do this:
Oh...Look at your Temperature gauge on the dash and verify if it works or not. Mine was Dead. I stumbled on this problem by mistake but it fix ALL my engine Idling problems. My Temp gauge started out lazy and finally died.
1. Start engine and let it warm up. Shut it off.
2. Unplug the Water Temperature Sensor from its connection (Located underneath the thermostat housing) Right there where your alternator is.
3. Crank your engine and see if the idle is more stable. You may notice that the cooling fan comes on. Don't worry about that. For some reason it seems like the ECU defaults when there is no resistance or reading from the Temp sensor (Infinite resistance) it tells the fan to come on. I could be wrong but its the only explaination I can see for it coming on with the sensor unplugged.
4. Plug the sensor up with the engine still running.....Notice the change in Idle? Did it Take off to Hell like mine did? Unplug it and plug it back up again several times. If the Idle changes each time, change the sensor. I went a little further and Measured the resistance with an ohm meter and got 33 Megaohms from the old sensor. (The new one was around 23 Kilo ohms) <-----which is about right for a sensor. ONce I saw the difference, Labratorilly this kinda verified my suspicians.
I changed the sensor and cranked the engine and it ran as smooth as glass....No rough idle....Idle was more stable than I was.
It fixed the Black smoke I was getting, the rotten egg smell, the hard starts, the "THOUGHT OF CHANGING THE FUEL PUMP", The I Hate Volvos Attitude I had at the time, the thought of getting towed Home 88 miles, ALL that.....went away because I was so frustrated with the Fuel delivery system, I decided to fix something else minor in the mean time while I thought about "What the #$@%is wrong with your A$$ Now" and decided to troubleshoot my temp gauge not working by the changing of the Temp Sensor. Try it. I was suckered into buying mine from the dealer on a Saturday afternoon since nobody else carried it....$57.00. But look at all the other $$$$$ I saved by not easter egging other equipment like fuel filter, throttle body,
I was already in too deep with that Idle Valve.
I gotta ask though, Why the Hell would you over engineer something to where a Temperature sensor can through the entire engine off Keal like that? I guess the engine thought it was cold all the time so the ECU demanded more fuel all the time....Hell I don't know...
Sounds like an easy way for a mechanic to sell more $hit you don't need to keep you coming back. I don't trust mechanics, I used to work around them so I know how they operate.
FOR YOUR GASOLINE PROBLEM:
The Same Volvo Mechanic Kat I paid the $40 bucks to who told me it was the Idle air Control valve Installed a Fuel Pump for me in August when I let him do my rear Main Seal.<------Yep! OUCH! $1600.00 but he did other stuff too......Anyway, He didn't tighten the plastic Ring down tight enough that holds the Fuel Pump assembly down in the tank. I tightened it with a flat screwdriver and a Rubber mallet. NO MORE GASS LEAKS OUT OF THE TOP OF THE TANK NOW.!!!!
Let us know it worked for you. Yall who read this...Put this post in your wallets! It can save you a whole lotta money some day!!!!
DC from North Carolina
Welcome to the world of Volvo man.
You are the Mirror image of me since I bought a volvo 850 turbo wagon for $3300 with 188k on it for the same reason you did. I needed a dependable car to carry me 160 miles round trip each day.
Volvos are a learning machine. You either lovem or hatem.
I hate mine when its not right and love it when it is right.
Keep coming here and doing your own work and stop paying greedy mechanics who claim to be Volvo Mechanics but consult a book or computer program (ALLDATA) to find a cure for your problems. The best way to appreciate your Volvo it get in there and Dig, read posts on the sites such as this one, Volvospeed.com, Brickboard.com, Turbobricks.com even may have some 850 postings. This is how I keep my volvos going. I own 3 Volvos (Do I need a bullet put through my head or what???)
88 740 turbo wagon, 87 740 gle wagon, and my 850turbo wagon. Love to hatem. The 87 740GLE wagon has proven to be most reliable!
230k miles.
When I read your post about the all the work youve had done, and Gasoline pouring out of the tank, it sounded like Deja-vu for me since I had the same problems. This information I am about to share will probably cure 90% of the problems you are having with the Idling shooting up and ramping up and down when it feels like it. I too was told it was the Idle Control Valve and spent $130 for a new one. Guess what. I paid a Mechanic $40 to tell me that. NO FIXXY!!!!
I had the exact same problems. The Fix?
First do this:
Oh...Look at your Temperature gauge on the dash and verify if it works or not. Mine was Dead. I stumbled on this problem by mistake but it fix ALL my engine Idling problems. My Temp gauge started out lazy and finally died.
1. Start engine and let it warm up. Shut it off.
2. Unplug the Water Temperature Sensor from its connection (Located underneath the thermostat housing) Right there where your alternator is.
3. Crank your engine and see if the idle is more stable. You may notice that the cooling fan comes on. Don't worry about that. For some reason it seems like the ECU defaults when there is no resistance or reading from the Temp sensor (Infinite resistance) it tells the fan to come on. I could be wrong but its the only explaination I can see for it coming on with the sensor unplugged.
4. Plug the sensor up with the engine still running.....Notice the change in Idle? Did it Take off to Hell like mine did? Unplug it and plug it back up again several times. If the Idle changes each time, change the sensor. I went a little further and Measured the resistance with an ohm meter and got 33 Megaohms from the old sensor. (The new one was around 23 Kilo ohms) <-----which is about right for a sensor. ONce I saw the difference, Labratorilly this kinda verified my suspicians.
I changed the sensor and cranked the engine and it ran as smooth as glass....No rough idle....Idle was more stable than I was.
It fixed the Black smoke I was getting, the rotten egg smell, the hard starts, the "THOUGHT OF CHANGING THE FUEL PUMP", The I Hate Volvos Attitude I had at the time, the thought of getting towed Home 88 miles, ALL that.....went away because I was so frustrated with the Fuel delivery system, I decided to fix something else minor in the mean time while I thought about "What the #$@%is wrong with your A$$ Now" and decided to troubleshoot my temp gauge not working by the changing of the Temp Sensor. Try it. I was suckered into buying mine from the dealer on a Saturday afternoon since nobody else carried it....$57.00. But look at all the other $$$$$ I saved by not easter egging other equipment like fuel filter, throttle body,
I was already in too deep with that Idle Valve.
I gotta ask though, Why the Hell would you over engineer something to where a Temperature sensor can through the entire engine off Keal like that? I guess the engine thought it was cold all the time so the ECU demanded more fuel all the time....Hell I don't know...
Sounds like an easy way for a mechanic to sell more $hit you don't need to keep you coming back. I don't trust mechanics, I used to work around them so I know how they operate.
FOR YOUR GASOLINE PROBLEM:
The Same Volvo Mechanic Kat I paid the $40 bucks to who told me it was the Idle air Control valve Installed a Fuel Pump for me in August when I let him do my rear Main Seal.<------Yep! OUCH! $1600.00 but he did other stuff too......Anyway, He didn't tighten the plastic Ring down tight enough that holds the Fuel Pump assembly down in the tank. I tightened it with a flat screwdriver and a Rubber mallet. NO MORE GASS LEAKS OUT OF THE TOP OF THE TANK NOW.!!!!
Let us know it worked for you. Yall who read this...Put this post in your wallets! It can save you a whole lotta money some day!!!!
DC from North Carolina
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Guest
You're a lifesaver. I just bought a 95 wagon with the exact same problems. Irregular temp sensor, irradict idle and some slipping when shifting. I appreciate the info very much.
One more problem, The plastic piece that controls the heater fan located behind the glove box broke. Any ideas on a cheap fix???
Thanks,
Jim
One more problem, The plastic piece that controls the heater fan located behind the glove box broke. Any ideas on a cheap fix???
Thanks,
Jim
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UncleBoost
- Posts: 79
- Joined: 11 December 2004
- Year and Model: 855 R, 1996
- Location: Jamestown, NC
<--------------Lets see what my Volvo Engineers are up to today?
Yep...just as I thought!
ANyway....I am not sure what plastic piece you are referring to. Post a Pic
and I am pretty sure I can find you one. I found the ultimate resting place for 850's (Whats left of them) S70's V70's etc. There are Plenty of 740's 760's...This guys junk yard is like my front yard!!! ha hahaaaaa!
I can get your piece as long as you can show me what it is you want.
Thanks
Unk
Yep...just as I thought!
ANyway....I am not sure what plastic piece you are referring to. Post a Pic
and I am pretty sure I can find you one. I found the ultimate resting place for 850's (Whats left of them) S70's V70's etc. There are Plenty of 740's 760's...This guys junk yard is like my front yard!!! ha hahaaaaa!
I can get your piece as long as you can show me what it is you want.
Thanks
Unk
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wmizell
I have a 96 850 with the 2.4L . the temp gauge is lazy! in the morning if i dont let it sit and idle about 15 minutes the needle bearly moves. IT DOES NOT GET THAT COLD IN GEORGIA. i am probably going to test my temp sensor this weekend after work, my idle is good but the car does smell like its running a bit rich. anyone has any advice between now and sunday let me know
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