Timing belt weekend: '99 S70 non-turbo. Part 1.

Post by **Brucebo** » 22 May 2009, 22:59

I took Friday off to get an early start on Memorial Day weekend in order to change the timing belt on my '99 S70 non-turbo (and get my amateur Volvo mechanic merit badge). This car has 202K+ miles on it. This is its second timing belt change. Attached are my pictures, results and reflections.

1. Beginning the task (background music Also Sprach Zarathustra!). I painted timing marks on the TOP of the cover in order to make it easier to find the harder to see actual alignment marks on the underside.

: The beginning!; IMG_4566_2_1.JPG (139.93 KiB) Viewed 4401 times

2. The mechanism unclothed. This is the old belt assembly. Nothing done yet. Note: Look at the tensioner indicator. It appears to be loose according to spec. This is a cold engine. See: http://volvospeed.com/Repair/ManualTensioner.php

: The timing belt mechanism unclothed.; IMG_4570_2_1.JPG (153.7 KiB) Viewed 4417 times

2a. Close up of old tensioner.

: Close up of old tensioner.; IMG_4568_2_1.JPG (134.19 KiB) Viewed 4403 times

3. Into the wheel well.

: Right Front Wheel Well.; IMG_4573_2_1.JPG (109.21 KiB) Viewed 4397 times

4. Removed plastic pulley shroud and attemped to get belt out from behind the crank pulley. See following photo. No way Jose. Rigid gas line made it even harder to get fingers up behind pulley. Also my half inch bargain air impact wrench had no effect on the 30mm crank nut. I didn't what to cut the old belt off like Ozark Lee did because if I can't get the old one out, I don't think I'll be able to get the new one in either. Old belt still looked good for the near term. Need to research how to get crank nut off. Perhaps rent a 1" impact wrench from A-1 Tool Shed. Note also, previous service techs had painted auxillary pink timing marks on the crank pulley and nearby bolt! Very helpful! I checked the real ones on the sprocket and they were aligned when the pink marks were aligned.

: Tight Squeeze behind pulley.; IMG_4575_2_1.JPG (140.92 KiB) Viewed 4463 times

5. Time to install new tensioner and idler. Uh oh? Which screw hole (was obious due to polish marks. Uh oh again? Does the tensioner key go to the left of the vertical ridge or does the ridge go in the middle of the key (it goes in the middle, look at the picture for 2a above. Taking pictures proved VERY helpful!)

: Tensioner Location.; IMG_4577_2_1.JPG (119.65 KiB) Viewed 4398 times

It took me a little while to understand how setting the tensioner worked, as apposed to just following instructions. Initially I thought cranking the tensioner did something sophisticated like somehow winding up the tensioner spring. Nothing so complex! It's merely that the bolt hole is offset in the central bearing stator! Cranking the little hex key just merely rotates the eccentric to add or remove tension! Then you tighten the bolt.

So in summary I installed a new tensioner and idler. I need to remove the crank pulley to install the new belt. I aligned all the marks, reinstalled the old belt, tensioned the tensioner, wound the engine around a couple times to make sure all the marks stayed aligned. Reinstalled the covers. Put the power stearing and coolant tank back. Forgot to reinstall the serpentine belt. Took off the power stearing and coolant tank. Installed the serpentine belt. Put back on the power stearing and coolant tank. Started her up and she pured like a kitten!

-Bruce

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 23 May 2009, 04:50

Great job!

But still that belt needs replacing.
I'll bet it would be easier to move those hard fuel lines.
I'll see if I can find a write-up for you on that.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 23 May 2009, 08:23

Brucebo wrote:Also my half inch bargain air impact wrench had no effect on the 30mm crank nut. I didn't what to cut the old belt off like Ozark Lee did because if I can't get the old one out, I don't think I'll be able to get the new one in either. Old belt still looked good for the near term. Need to research how to get crank nut off.

Brucebo, this pic shows a mechanic holding the crankshaft pulley with a homemade tool while he loosens the nut with a breaker bar. The tool is made from two pieces of flat steel stock and 3 bolts & nuts. I'll see if I can find directions for making the tool.

http://img142.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... 002ps9.jpg

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 23 May 2009, 10:45

To make the pulley holder, get a piece of 1" X 1/4" flat steel stock. Cut the shorter leg off (length not specified) and line it up with the end of the longer leg. Drill a hole through both pieces for the pivot (a 1/4" or 5/16" bolt will work). Drill holes at the other end and use 2 pulley bolts that were previously removed to hold it to the pulley. Put your socket with breaker bar on the crankshaft nut and loosen it while counterholding with the homemade tool.

Post by **cn90** » 04 Jun 2010, 12:58

Regarding the 30-mm Crank bolt.

I have 1/2 Air Gun and Impact Socket, is this good enough to remove the 30-mm crank bolt?

Post by **Brucebo** » 08 Jun 2010, 13:16

cn90 wrote:Regarding the 30-mm Crank bolt.

I have 1/2 Air Gun and Impact Socket, is this good enough to remove the 30-mm crank bolt?

See "Timing belt weekend, part 2" at https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... 56&start=0

-Bruce

Post by **hansenjg** » 25 Apr 2011, 12:59

I did the timing belt on my wife's 2000 C70 (150K) for the first time this weekend. (I know, I'm a lucky guy because it hadn't broken yet). Your post was the most helpful thing out there. There were several good descriptions of doing timing belts on various cars (none excactly like her's, but close enough) and yours is the best. Now she has a new belt, idler, tensioner, and water pump. Thanks again. Only cost me $150! Would have been something like $600 at the dealer!