2000 XC70 - A little help with diagnostics, please?

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 19 Jun 2009, 10:56

There is no way on God's Green Earth that you're producing over 18-20 volts, MAX!
Maybe 117 degrees of heat on that cable? I don't get it...

And $630.00 sounds mighty pricey for battery cable replacement.
If this is really what they're telling you, I'd consider getting another opinion

dislusive · Post by **dislusive** » 19 Jun 2009, 11:11

He definitely stated "volts" after reiterating the value.

This is really what they are telling me. I can give names, places, numbers and, hell, I can even scan in the resulting documents for proof; not that I think that you're questioning my integrity or anything...

They are replacing 3 cables? He stated there were two positive cables and a single negative.

Post by **vegasjetskier** » 19 Jun 2009, 13:32

Maybe they meant Ohms and said Volts by mistake. That would make sense. Still, it would seem like a very rare coincidence for both the positive and negative cables to fail at the same time. If I were you I would insist that they give you the old cables so that you know that they have been changed. I would then Ohm them out myself to be sure they really are bad.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 19 Jun 2009, 13:37

dislusive wrote:He definitely stated "volts" after reiterating the value.

This is really what they are telling me. I can give names, places, numbers and, hell, I can even scan in the resulting documents for proof; not that I think that you're questioning my integrity or anything...

They are replacing 3 cables? He stated there were two positive cables and a single negative.

Bad cables will just result in charging system problems and low voltage issues.
Electronic things can operate pretty weirdly when they haven't got enough juice.
BUT - It's very, very unlikey that any electronic parts would actually "burn out".

Automotive electrical is not every shop's strong point.
Or you may have a service writer that just isn't translating well.
At any rate, it sounds like a second opinion is probably the smart money.

dislusive · Post by **dislusive** » 19 Jun 2009, 23:55

The whole paying $630 for the new cables being installed seems like I'm being ripped off.

The two positive cables cost $122 (including shipping), but I cannot find the negative cable to purchase from anywhere.

The dealer made replacing the cables a "big job" and actually big enough that they have to keep the car for more than one day to do it. Looking at the pics of the cables, it looks like the cables only connect to one place each end and no where else. Probably a 30 minute job?

I think I'm being taken advantage of because I don't know any better, yet. My first Volvo.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 20 Jun 2009, 04:41

I agree- I posted where you can find the negative cable (and positive one for that matter) on your other thread. Best of luck with this!

zprovo · Post by **zprovo** » 20 Jun 2009, 08:50

I purchased my positive cables FCP Groton, and I will tell you the positive cable to the fuse block is a major pain to replace, that maybe why the quote is so high...

dislusive · Post by **dislusive** » 20 Jun 2009, 14:07

zprovo wrote:I purchased my positive cables FCP Groton, and I will tell you the positive cable to the fuse block is a major pain to replace, that maybe why the quote is so high...

Thanks. That makes me feel better about the price I'm paying, knowing most of my money is going towards labor costs.

dislusive · Post by **dislusive** » 22 Jun 2009, 13:40

The replaced battery cables didn't solve the issue. They couldn't find a fault elsewhere, and they felt the surge when driving the car, so they "convinced the shop foreman" to allow them to clean the ETM under warranty.

They're having one of their techs drive it home tonight (I'm all for it) to make sure the car isn't acting up any more; they were only able to drive it about 5miles for testing because of time constraints.

I was hopeful for a replacement, but I can breath a little easier. That's still possible if it still acts up. Have another 10 months on a warranty for a replacement after this anyhow. Hopefully it holds over until I get the Xemodex(sp?) replacement.

mykemac · Post by **mykemac** » 22 Jun 2009, 14:37

dont know the whole history of the problem you are having but the crucial point here is if your engine surges frequently while cold and very rarely when warmed up you can be pretty sure you need a etm as car is probably in open loop from car specification maps when problem occurs,as most of the cars sensors are only used for data feedback to ecm when in closed loop or normal running temp,i stand corrected on this is my own experience from my own time identifing problems with my own car by the way,if car has a tendency to be surging at any time random you could be looking at a dodgy mass flow sensor,tipping the area around the MAF lightly and noting any surge can indicate bad maf,if car surges are reasonly predictable every 10minutes or so could be bad o2 sensor trying its best to go into closed loop but is out of spec or bad heater in o2 sensor,hope this helps

2000 XC70 - A little help with diagnostics, please?

Re: 2000 XC70 - A little help with diagnostics, please?