Replacing rotors

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 18 Aug 2009, 23:55

Thanks a lot gentlemen. Do I have to compress the caliper or anything before I take it off, or do I just pull them off?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 19 Aug 2009, 00:28

I normally need to pry the piston back, at least partially, to remove the caliper. If I am replacing the rotors at the same time I just use a big hurkin screwdriver and push the pistons on the calipers all the way back without fear of any damage to the old rotors. If I am keeping the old rotors I use a little more finesse and just get them clear enough to get the calipers and pads off and then re-compress the caliper piston when they are off so as to not damage the rotor.

...Lee

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 19 Aug 2009, 11:11

Hey Lee, I've always read the the time to change the pads is at 3MM and the rotor has 23MM min. thickness stamped on the edge.

I've got 5MM left on my front pads but my rotors are right at 23MM. Since the rotors are still smooth with no warping I was thinking I'd just keep going until I got at or below 3MM on the pads and then change them both out at that time. Do you see any problem with that?

Also, I'm already at 3mm on the rear pads (didn't measure the rotor but it has a pretty good lip on it) but was thinking, as long as I keep an eye on it, I might sqeak out another thousand or two miles before changing them. Is that a bad idea?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 19 Aug 2009, 16:14

I wouldn't have a problem with changing the pads and just leaving the rotors as they are if they aren't yet warped. I normally get 2 full sets of pads out of a set of rotors. I might get even better since I went to the drilled rotors on all of the cars.

...Lee

iselloil · Post by **iselloil** » 20 Aug 2009, 05:29

Autozone has the ceramic pads with rubber backing,so no grease needed.

Volgrrr · Post by **Volgrrr** » 20 Aug 2009, 05:51

Just be a little cautious.

I recently did set out to change the pads on my T5, having done this a number of times on other vehicles I've owned previously.

Bing in a bit of a hurry, I jumped under the T5, undid two fair sized bolts at the rear of the backing plate and, to my surprise, hydraulic oil started to pour out.

I'd carelessly undid the bolts that hold the caliper together - not the bolts that hold the calipers onto the back plate. There probably are other cars out there with split calipers, but this was the first one I'd run into.

However, the brakes are fixed now and I will be more careful in future to ensure I'm taking out the actual caliper holding bolts - not any old bolt that happens to be poking out of the backing plate.

You live and learn.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 20 Aug 2009, 16:16

I went to a parts store and asked for brake grease and the guy looked at me like I was crazy. What does the brake grease actually do...and is there another a name for it? haha

JFO · Post by **JFO** » 20 Aug 2009, 17:23

He should have known what you were after. It's just silicone grease, a standard material used on the back of pads, shims, caliper slides. Brands include SylGlide and Plastilube.

Jim

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 20 Aug 2009, 17:39

Alternatively I have used a Permatex product called Disk Brake Quiet. It is kinda like an RTV paste but it has worked OK in lieu of the SilGlyde. Nearly any auto parts store will have the Permatex stuff.

...Lee

Post by **tailor** » 20 Aug 2009, 20:08

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... &sk=t&sd=a

The above post is full of great bits of information with regard to rotors and pad replacement and the pros and cons of "turning" rotors. As well as the "bedding" process.

Replacing rotors

Re: Replacing rotors