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2005 V70 T5 Automatic 218,000km Rough Idle Diag Help Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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jonesg
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Re: 2005 V70 T5 Automatic 218,000km Rough Idle Diag Help

Post by jonesg »

you mentioned oil change, thick oil will affect the cam solenoids on a CVVT equipped engine. It will slow the cam reaction and set a code,
you're in vancouver, with -20C winters, make sure you have the proper viscosity oil.

VIDA will show a time lag in the cam VVT reaction if you get into the right menu.
Other causes are possible clogged pickup in the pan, clogged mesh filter in the cam solenoid. Theres others.

VIDA will show fuel pump duty cycle, a failing pump will have a high duty cycle, maybe 60% or higher, 35% is normal.
But that idle also sounds like a dirty throttle body.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

You can’t diagnose a fuel pump from a rough running engine. For $110-150 per hour pay people to diagnose, not guess.

I would pursue the a vacuum hose check ( remove, inspect, replace) , fuel pressure check, plugs coils, and oil change
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Slipshodcrowd
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Post by Slipshodcrowd »

abscate wrote: 20 Dec 2022, 01:08 You can’t diagnose a fuel pump from a rough running engine. For $110-150 per hour pay people to diagnose, not guess.

I would pursue the a vacuum hose check ( remove, inspect, replace) , fuel pressure check, plugs coils, and oil change
After scanning the car with a good quality (non VIDA) scanner i found cylinder 1 and 3 misfiring during a drive caused the CEL to flash and made me pull over right away. Car is now not drivable on the road and I dont have the funds for another tow+diag+parts, I will be doing a fuel pressure check first since thats somthing i can do myself along with a vaccum leak check since I got a long term fuel trim code 216D which is high fuel pressure related or intake leak related (Also got a 120D which is for the IAT so another sign of intake trouble unless this was from the MAF being unplugged).

Im fairly certain its not the pump at this point due to the 216D code being possibly related to high pressure reading not a low pressure reading and the fact only 2 cylinders were misfiring but as i said im low on funds so i'd like to rule it out 100% with the proper test before i move on to other possiblities. Ive seen similar symptoms and similar codes on a thread over on sweedspeed which was caused by the ETB so maybe its time to clean that and take it off the car to inspect since ive got the new gasket waiting with my PCV kit but thats a project for when its no longer -13 with 2 feet of snow on the ground and i'd like to rule 1 thing out at a time.

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

Its telling you cyl 1 and 3 are misfiring, , check them,
swap plugs and see if the problem follows the plugs, if not ...
swap injectors and see if the situation changes. It could very well be aging injectors on their way out. if not...
check injector wiring for cracks.Put a finger on the injector to see if they're clicking.
I wouldn't bother with the throttle body, get it firing on all cyls first.

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Post by Slipshodcrowd »

jonesg wrote: 22 Dec 2022, 02:53 Its telling you cyl 1 and 3 are misfiring, , check them,
swap plugs and see if the problem follows the plugs, if not ...
swap injectors and see if the situation changes. It could very well be aging injectors on their way out. if not...
check injector wiring for cracks.Put a finger on the injector to see if they're clicking.
I wouldn't bother with the throttle body, get it firing on all cyls first.

Unable to check plugs at the moment cause i dont have a deep enough socket but i will do this when i get one. In the meantime i started the car today to check injectors, all injectors are clicking currently and did not lose any fuel pressure after 20 minutes so im ruling out injectors. Next check will be the plugs as soon as i get a scan tool and socket to confirm if the misfire is following the plugs or not.

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Post by Slipshodcrowd »

Changed all spark plugs with a set of NGK iridiums and the car doesnt flash the CEL right at startup, however it did flash when I drove the car around the block. Not sure whats next.

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br0dy519  
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Post by br0dy519 »

Every misfire that I've ever had on my vehicles were coilpacks :D
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

Slipshodcrowd
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Post by Slipshodcrowd »

br0dy519 wrote: 27 Dec 2022, 21:46 Every misfire that I've ever had on my vehicles were coilpacks :D
Could i unplug the coil for 1 and 3 and move it to say 2 and 4 and see if the misfire moves, similar to swapping the injector or plug? As long as i unplug the coil itself obviously and not just put the coil in a different hole on the same plugin.

Edit: i just googled my spark plugs that were in the car when sold to me, denso iridium power (ikh20) and these plugs dont even seem to fit my car, and have a gap of 1.1mm from what i can see online Wtf.

93SCMax
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Post by 93SCMax »

Slipshodcrowd wrote: 27 Dec 2022, 20:43 Changed all spark plugs with a set of NGK iridiums and the car doesnt flash the CEL right at startup, however it did flash when I drove the car around the block. Not sure whats next.
My Volvo never ran well with NGK Iridiums, only OEM (Bosch) spark plugs. On the other hand, my Lexus only runs well on NGK Iridiums (Toyota OEM). Some cars only run well with OEM plugs, especially if they are old cars with old coil packs.

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Post by Slipshodcrowd »

Car ran fine with denso plugs that arent even made for this year/make/model, at least for a few months. Ive seen the denso 5344s on the forum used on p3 s80s and work fine, not even sure how the hell they got put in my car. I dont think im gonna spend the 125$+ on another set of spark plugs from the dealer yet.

My plan at the moment is gonna be to check my compression to rule out any major cylinder damage before dropping any big money on new coils and more plugs. Trying to be optimistic that it isnt piston rings or valves on 2 cylinders cause id probably be unable to afford those major repairs. Also hoping to scan again tonight

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