If you must chase the threads of a blind hole, such as the caliper fitting, use an old fitting (or bolt) or new spare fitting. Cut a couple slots about 0.06 inch deep into the threads, add grease and turn the fitting into the caliper. The modified fitting will act as a tap and cleanup the threads. The grease will lubricate the process and hold any cuttings.
volvolugnut
Brake caliper failures and how to prevent them
- volvolugnut
- Posts: 6225
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Re: Brake caliper failures and how to prevent them
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
- erikv11
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This has been posted about extensively the last few years but to recap here:
Factory P80 calipers have nearly immortal (!) stainless steel slide pins. On even the most rusted, shot factory calipers the slide pins are usually fine, probably could use a de-greasing and light sanding (and re-greasing with e.g. SIL-glyde).
On the other hand, rebuilt calipers all come with shiny, brand new, pot metal slide pins that quickly corrode and will soon cause the calipers to stick, probably before the caliper has any sticky piston issues.
Test with a magnet: stainless slide pins are non-magnetic, the junk ones are magnetic.
And from any crusty old factory caliper you come across, save the slide pins!
Factory P80 calipers have nearly immortal (!) stainless steel slide pins. On even the most rusted, shot factory calipers the slide pins are usually fine, probably could use a de-greasing and light sanding (and re-greasing with e.g. SIL-glyde).
On the other hand, rebuilt calipers all come with shiny, brand new, pot metal slide pins that quickly corrode and will soon cause the calipers to stick, probably before the caliper has any sticky piston issues.
Test with a magnet: stainless slide pins are non-magnetic, the junk ones are magnetic.
And from any crusty old factory caliper you come across, save the slide pins!
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
- abscate
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Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- jreed
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I just popped a new set of ATE 604033 pads into my old ATE rear calipers. The boots on the pistons are definitely past their prime... loose, gooey rubber that has some breaks and splits in it similar to the photos above. I was able to press the pistons all the way back into the calipers, so they're not frozen yet but I'm going to replace the calipers... checking out the NAPA adaptive one rebuilt front ATE calipers you linked earlier, it looks like the rear calipers are available for about $80. Have you tried/tested the Napa adaptive one rear calipers? If so, what's your experience/opinion please?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CALSE22 ... sionRank=1
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CALSE22 ... sionRank=1
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
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wheelsup
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Where are you in Raleigh??? Can I come help lol. My car is in the same position. Just replaced rear rotors and pads but the boots on the pistons look pretty bad, it's only time.jreed wrote: ↑04 Jun 2023, 12:32 I just popped a new set of ATE 604033 pads into my old ATE rear calipers. The boots on the pistons are definitely past their prime... loose, gooey rubber that has some breaks and splits in it similar to the photos above. I was able to press the pistons all the way back into the calipers, so they're not frozen yet but I'm going to replace the calipers... checking out the NAPA adaptive one rebuilt front ATE calipers you linked earlier, it looks like the rear calipers are available for about $80. Have you tried/tested the Napa adaptive one rear calipers? If so, what's your experience/opinion please?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CALSE22 ... sionRank=1
Screen Shot 2023-06-04 at 14.30.08.png
viewtopic.php?t=102448
Were you able to move the brake line nut? I tried, but it started stripping so I backed off. Originally I planned on doing the calipers at the same time.
BTW last time I touched the brakes was in 2007. Here is the brake fluid (not sure why it's sideways, sorry):
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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Ooof, that’s nasty looking. Volvo says replace every 3years/30k miles
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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wheelsup
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Yeah, I'm sure. When bleeding all sorts of nasty boogers came out. Doing it every few years would also help exercise the bleed screw and ensure it doesn't weld into the caliper.
I tried using a vacuum pump to suck it out but gave up, making it a two man job. Wife helped.
1995 850 GLT Wagon w/ 200,000 miles
- jreed
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Would appreciate advice from the group on where to source the brake line nut (and part number) for the rear brake lines... Thanks in advance!
1997 855 GLT (Light Pressure Turbo) still going strong. Previous: 1986 240 GL rusted out in '06, 1985 Saab 900T rusted out in '95, 1975 Saab 99 rusted out in '95, 1973 Saab 99 rusted out in '94
- abscate
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You buy the NiCopp and fittings from Amazon…
I like the “Stop Shop”
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KN ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN ... UTF8&psc=1
I like the “Stop Shop”
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KN ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN ... UTF8&psc=1
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- FireFox31
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I updated my recommendation for the NAPA calipers on this thread's first post. I added a draft of boot replacement info to this post. Sorry it's still in draft form. I really want to finalize this when I get some time.jreed wrote: ↑04 Jun 2023, 12:32 Have you tried/tested the Napa adaptive one rear calipers? If so, what's your experience/opinion please?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CALSE22 ... sionRank=1
FireFox31
Blue 2000 V70 NA manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
Green 2000 V70 NA automatic, "the G70" - awaiting 2nd rehab
Black 2000 V70 NA automatic, "Geronimo" - rescued, rehabilitating
Blue 1998 V70 T5 manual, "the T5M" - awaiting rehab
Blue 2000 V70 NA manual, "the V70" - died, reborn, totaled, donated, stripped
Green 2000 V70 NA automatic, "the G70" - awaiting 2nd rehab
Black 2000 V70 NA automatic, "Geronimo" - rescued, rehabilitating
Blue 1998 V70 T5 manual, "the T5M" - awaiting rehab
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