'72 145s - Lower control arm shaft removal/replacement

[BlackBart]

Is this stuff helpful to the conversation?

140 cross member. It looks like an oval hollow "box" with a pinch seam between upper and lower halves. I don't see a center gap at the control arm bolt. From parts diagrams it looks like a steel cylinder to carry the bolt is fit in at the seam on both sides - does it go all the way through?

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This is Bolt 10. "UNF 9/16-18 x 13 7/16". Thread length = 1 1/8" This part replaces part no 942941."
So, 9/16 threaded end, but it steps up to what diameter?

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The bushings look like a rubber bush with a steel outer sleeve that fits or slips over. I'd guess that is pressed into the control arm. Does that mean the inner sleeve of this bushing is riding on and rotating on Bolt 10? There's a wear point!

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I see PU in that number so that's a poly bushing.

[volvolugnut]

New thoughts:
The saw tooth edge on the bushings may be to lock the bushing from rotation after the long bolt (10) is tightened.

There are short screws with washers (items 2 and 3) shown in the diagram that appear to intersect with the long bolt from the bottom. Are these screws to lock the long bolt and prevent rotation?

There appears to maybe be a flat spot machined on the side of the long bolt. About 1/3 from the head end. This would help the item 2 and 3 screws to lock the long bolt from rotation. A shade tree mechanic might even have used the screw holes to weld the long bolt in place.

Bertelsen, do you find and have you removed these screws?

volvolugnut

[bertelsen]

@BlackBart this all checks out with my sources as well; yep, it's a big bolt and we're looking at the head end (apologies if I swapped terms along the line).

I've already tried pounding on it with a 4lb mallet, and driving it with a c-type bushing press (both from the nut end, so would be driving it toward the head). The bore is really only directly accessible for heating by putting the torch inside the upper spring seat aperture (opening is visible in the upper right of the second photo). The stub ends (visible just behind the bushings in both photos, and by the bushings at the other side of the crossmember) offer a little surface for receiving heat as well.

[bertelsen]

Additionally, the shafts on my car are metric (22mm head and M14x1.5 thread) instead of SAE/Imperial.

So did someone force a non-standard bolt through the opening and jamb it in there?? Are both sides just as frozen?

That is my best guess. And yes, both sides are equally frozen.

THAT change in bolt type is very suspect. Too bad we do not have the original size specs for bolt 10.

According to VP, the spec is: UNF 9/16-18x13 7/16" Thread length = 1 1/8"

Does the axle/frame have any open area to view the bolt in the center? It would be odd for a part to be manufactured with a long hole through the frame part with all the same tight tolerance to the bolt. Unless the hole through the frame is actually as tube welded within the frame stamping.

The bore is a full length tube, extending from front to back through the crossmember. The tube is clearly visible if you look inside of the upper spring seat opening.

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I am beginning to think the bolt was replaced at some point and some butcher work done to the frame to use the non standard bolt. When the bolt finally comes out, a steel bushing may be needed to support and center the correct bolt in the frame/axle.
volvolugnut

These are my fears as well. Thanks for bringing up the issue of stabilizing and centering the bolt in the long run, as I had not gotten that far yet. Fingers crossed that when it does come out, I find that it hasn't been butchered that badly.

From what you both have offered, it sounds like my best bet is to keep trying heat and impact in cycles. I'll be back at it tomorrow, and will let you know what happens. Thanks for the help, and please let me know if you think of anything else?

[bertelsen]

New thoughts:
The saw tooth edge on the bushings may be to lock the bushing from rotation after the long bolt (10) is tightened.

There are short screws with washers (items 2 and 3) shown in the diagram that appear to intersect with the long bolt from the bottom. Are these screws to lock the long bolt and prevent rotation?

There appears to maybe be a flat spot machined on the side of the long bolt. About 1/3 from the head end. This would help the item 2 and 3 screws to lock the long bolt from rotation. A shade tree mechanic might even have used the screw holes to weld the long bolt in place.

Bertelsen, do you find and have you removed these screws?

volvolugnut

Thanks for the additional thoughts, and please excuse that I did not see these before posting my previous reply.

Items 2 & 3 are the bolt/washer combo that secures the crossmember to the main frame rail. One set is pictured but four are required. Remove those and the whole assembly you have photographed on the ground comes away from the body (provided you've disconnected the steering linkages and sway bar first!). Although they appear in close proximity in the PD, they are a notable distance apart from the lower control arm shafts.

My new bolts have not been delivered yet, so I can't confirm if they have the flat spot on the extremely long shoulder. I'm not sure what function it would serve, as it would be entirely enclosed in the tube bore.

Is that complete front end in your photograph 1) from a 1971 or later 140, 2) currently available to purchase, and 3) hopefully somewhere in the northeastern US?

[BlackBart]

Bertelsen - nope, that’s just an interwebs pic I grabbed to understand the shape, sorry. No notes on the year.

Good eye on lugnut’s part to spot more details. I read that and thought ah ha, drill out the welds in those set screw holes!

The sawtooth ends of the bushing are very deliberate. Does the bolt clamp that surface to the cross member and the washers on the bolt? Then the motion is just bushing flex.

They don’t tell you what the Bolt 10 diameter is, just the threaded end, but sounds like you’ll have them soon.

[volvolugnut]

Thanks BB and Bertelsen for the information. This is an interesting problem.
Perhaps removal of the complete axle assembly would be the best method of long bolt removal.
volvolugnut

[BlackBart]

Looking at the cross member pic I realize those control arms aren’t coming off of there without the bolt coming out or getting cut off.

Would a small hole drilled into the bolt tube allow you to inject PB Blaster into the middle and maybe it wicks it’s way down the tube to soak it?

[SOURDOUGHJIM]

Perhaps a Mayhew bolt breaker on an air hammer could get it moving. There's a video on this item at Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-37316-2-I ... B008M23A6Y

[volvolugnut]

Looking at the cross member pic I realize those control arms aren’t coming off of there without the bolt coming out or getting cut off.

Would a small hole drilled into the bolt tube allow you to inject PB Blaster into the middle and maybe it wicks it’s way down the tube to soak it?

The drilled hole might work, but access is difficult.
volvolugnut