Power steering lines rusted out. Puked fluid. Replace only lines?

[GreenMagicMan]

Finished it a few days ago.
I used the Grainger tap to clean out and cut threads in the cross threaded mess.
The bolt finger spun in the whole way. But it also did on the other front upper 15mm bolt that I cleaned up.

I torqued the 'good' front upper 15mm bolt in at 88 ft/lbs. I didn't dare go that forceful on the 'bad' re-cut side, so I winced and hoped as I torqued it to 60 ft/lbs.

Have been driving the car a few trips. Steering is back and fine

Next plan is to probably source a proper length longer AWD new bolt and douse it in thread locker blue Loctite, and torque it to.... not sure. Will do at least 60 but not sure I can trust not blowing out the chopped up threads all the way to 80+

I torqued the back lower 21mm bolts to 120 ft/ lbs. I mis-read my notes and recalled later those were the TTY torque to yield bolts of 103 ft/lbs + 120 degrees. So although the 120 ft lbs felt like a sh*t load of force on those bolts, I am guessing those are ok.

Thoughts?

And those two on a side little 13mm bolts get torqued to 37 ft/lbs according to my notes which I did.

[Krons]

Subframe bolts are torque to yield. Best to order new ones and replace at some point. It is a lot of torque, my S60 was 88 ft-lb then 120° if I recall correctly, my 24” breaker bar came in handy.

[GreenMagicMan]

Right. Trying to find anywhere that actually stocks or can get the longer AWD bolt version.
Also, I do know the TTY which is listed as you say.

I just am not sure if I trust going much past 60-70 ft / lbs total on the bolt that had to have the receiver nut in the frame taped and now the threads are looser than stock.