1995 Volvo 960 sedan 233xxxkm No Crank/No start Topic is solved

[sergitin32]

So today I got under the car to establish continuity past the A3/D:1 connector for the circuit. (between A3/D and starter motor with the PNP in between.
I have established that there is indeed continuity for the circuitry all the way from A3/D:1 To B5:4 (Blue Pink), and there is also continuity from B5:3 (blue) to connection #50 at the starter.
Also established, there is no continuity through the PNP switch (bad switch) from B5:3 to B5:4 in any position of the shifter.
While I was down there, I fixed a broken shifter linkage bushing and straightened the linkage rod itself to align it with the shift lever lower end, b4 the gear would not shift smoothly into L. Then again when i plugged everything back for the first ime the arrow up sign in the dashboard was blinking which means PNP switch issues... SO:

I'll remove the switch tomorrow and report back.

Later on, I'll need to address the issue found before the A3/D connector and see why it is what it is there... I believe I am missing something, but I am not sure. I like the idea of a unicist diagnosis. If it is the PNP, it should not be the wiring, or at least I want to believe the chances are very slim of both being bad.


Sergio.

[sergitin32]

Hi there fine fellows, just reporting:
Took PNP switch out and it was absolutely bad, cero continuity in any contacts, so I did as one does when broke, I refurbished.
It came out like new and put some dielectric grease in there and sealant aroung the gasket, I expect it to last another 50k km... good luck to me.

Refited the switch and installed everything back together, including the new air filter the clean out flame trap from th PCV system just in case and so... I convinced my self all the rubish meassurements with the DMM a few days back were just because the bitg plug from A3 was loose and the ECU was sending mixed signals, LOL...

In any case once everything was back in place I turned the key and the starter almost worked... went down there and gave it a shot with the screw driver just toget it going from 8 years of sleep, ran for a while, turned it off anf turned the key again:
IT STARTED AND IT STARTS EVERY SINGLE TIME NO PROB NOW.

SOLVED FINALLY.

After most second guessing the wiring I realized most of the wiring looks like new in there and a lot of it is covered by steel and plastic, hard to get by mice... so at the end ONCE AGAIN THE PNP SWITCH WAS THE MAIN CULPRIT.

The A/T coolant lines were prebent and the switch is an aftermarket one so someone was there before me, thanks to them. Taking the switch out was not effortles but it was not the crazy job most people make it to be. I did not remove anything out of the way just made sure to leave the 22mm nut still on the threads to lever it out of the shaft using the edge of the tranny and a flat screw driver. Then worked it around the many obstacles. For reainstalation I used the DMM in continuity attached to pin 1 and 2 in B5 connector (reverse light switch) and the shift lever in R. then mover the switch in both directions listening for the beep and left it resting in the middle for best alignment, tighten the 12mm and went to pins 3 and 4 for starter circuit and mover the sgifter to P and N and heard the beep in both positions making the switch aligned perfectly.

In case I didnt mention it I also ended up replacing the front bushing in the shift lever linkage to the tranny, this way I asured the signal from the PNP swith was consistent.

Now I am trying to erase the code I generated in the job and I just can not, they are not going away.
I am pressing the button 10 seconds then 4 seconds then switch off then on again and checking for codes again...
114 for tranny and 223 for engine still there even when everything works as it should, OH WELL

Thank you every one.

Sergio.