Help, this car is driving (no pun intented) me nuts. My driver's door doing the same thing, it chimes and the lights remain on. Somewhere in the thread I thought I saw someone talking about adding epoxy or JB weld. Where and now does one do this.
Thanks in advance,
"Door Closed" switch 1999 (late year) S70
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Ozark Lee
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Normally the problem is in the switch which is built into the door latch assembly. I have read a couple of threads where people have bent the arm on the microswitch to make it work again but it normally means a new latch.
...Lee
...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
'96 Platinum Edition Turbo
Previous:
1999 V70XC - Nautic Blue - Totaled while parked.
1999 V70XC - RIP - Wrecked Parts Car.
1998 S70 T5
1996 850 N/A
1989 740 GLT
1986 740 GLT
1972 142 Grand Luxe
Re: "Door Closed" switch 1999 (late year) S70 Dear VCA, I have problems with the driver side door signal message being activated. Unable to get info from alldata. Please E mail PDF to [email protected] Thanks.
MJJ's post (#6) on 14 Sep 2008, 15:13 was most helpful and I'm going to venture out again and fool with it a bit more. I could use some guidance while I'm outside working. I looked around for the pdf doc mentioned, but no luck. A little background:
The little plastic tab on the lock release cable on my driver's side door broke off, freezing up the interior door handle and making it inoperable. I picked up a cable and made plans to tackle the repair. First problem I encountered was that I was having difficulty removing the lock actuator from within the door panel to disconnect the other end of the release cable. Digging around and peering inside the frame with a flashlight, I determined I needed to remove the exterior handle. Total time - 1 hr. No problem. Replaced the cable and re-installed the actuator in 20 minutes. Replacing the exterior handle was another issue. Didn't seem too difficult; wiggle the handle into the handle and get the lock rod into the actuator. My key worked freely in the lock and the door would open from the outside. Unfortunately, when I tightened everything down the key would bind in the lock and was inoperable]. Note: The ONLY door keyhole on the car. This was Tuesday afternoon. I gathered my tools, cleaned up my work area and removed anything of value from inside the car. My second to last activity was to lock the rear door which I had intended to keep unlocked. This was a bit inconvenient, but I had the driver's window cracked a bit and was able to fashion a little hook to grab the lock button. My alarm goes off; never received a fob when I purchased the car; disconnect the battery and retire for the evening. Volvo guy I talked to yesterday says without the remote, the only way to disable the alarm and start the car is to cycle through key lock/unlocks on the driver's door.
Yesterday from the post above, I learned that the exterior handle takes a little finessing to seat the lock rod correctly and became aware that it may take a few attempts. I spent an hour or so on it before the rain started. I disconnected the alarm horn, reconnected my battery and rolled up my windows. I also left a back door unlocked and released the levers on the back seats so that I can unlock a rear door if some good samaritan discovers my car is unlocked and remedies the situation.
Has anyone encountered this problem? I was able to get everything put together, so that I could open the door from outside and inside handles. Unfortunately, no success with the key (a little movement, but some binding). Exterior handle and key worked fine before removing the actuator and the exterior handle.
With my tinkering yesterday, when I put slight pressure on the key slot while inserting the handle into the door, I get the handle flush against the door frame, but the handle portion is pulled out a bit and the handle does not work suggesting that the lock rod is incorrectly positioned. Should the slot in the actuator be in a specific position to accept the lock rod? The lot is kind of a star pattern and there is either an indent or "half moon" mark on one of the points. I'll get a snapshot if needed to clarify.
With my loss of use of key entry, my alarm has gone off and the car has been immobilized. I bought the car used years ago and never received a fob. I wasn't even aware that I had an alarm until I replaced my car battery. The Volvo guy says the only way to reset the alarm is through the driver's door. He also assured me that there is no max number of alarms before the car is permanently immobilized. I found differing info on the alarm from different sites, so wanted to confirm this with Volvo. For instance, access through trunk lock... Anyone have any conflicting info?
So, in summary, I'm going to get that damn door handle to seat properly or I'm going to have to get the car towed to a mechanic to finish my job.
Thanks for any help you folks can provide.
Roger
The little plastic tab on the lock release cable on my driver's side door broke off, freezing up the interior door handle and making it inoperable. I picked up a cable and made plans to tackle the repair. First problem I encountered was that I was having difficulty removing the lock actuator from within the door panel to disconnect the other end of the release cable. Digging around and peering inside the frame with a flashlight, I determined I needed to remove the exterior handle. Total time - 1 hr. No problem. Replaced the cable and re-installed the actuator in 20 minutes. Replacing the exterior handle was another issue. Didn't seem too difficult; wiggle the handle into the handle and get the lock rod into the actuator. My key worked freely in the lock and the door would open from the outside. Unfortunately, when I tightened everything down the key would bind in the lock and was inoperable]. Note: The ONLY door keyhole on the car. This was Tuesday afternoon. I gathered my tools, cleaned up my work area and removed anything of value from inside the car. My second to last activity was to lock the rear door which I had intended to keep unlocked. This was a bit inconvenient, but I had the driver's window cracked a bit and was able to fashion a little hook to grab the lock button. My alarm goes off; never received a fob when I purchased the car; disconnect the battery and retire for the evening. Volvo guy I talked to yesterday says without the remote, the only way to disable the alarm and start the car is to cycle through key lock/unlocks on the driver's door.
Yesterday from the post above, I learned that the exterior handle takes a little finessing to seat the lock rod correctly and became aware that it may take a few attempts. I spent an hour or so on it before the rain started. I disconnected the alarm horn, reconnected my battery and rolled up my windows. I also left a back door unlocked and released the levers on the back seats so that I can unlock a rear door if some good samaritan discovers my car is unlocked and remedies the situation.
Has anyone encountered this problem? I was able to get everything put together, so that I could open the door from outside and inside handles. Unfortunately, no success with the key (a little movement, but some binding). Exterior handle and key worked fine before removing the actuator and the exterior handle.
With my tinkering yesterday, when I put slight pressure on the key slot while inserting the handle into the door, I get the handle flush against the door frame, but the handle portion is pulled out a bit and the handle does not work suggesting that the lock rod is incorrectly positioned. Should the slot in the actuator be in a specific position to accept the lock rod? The lot is kind of a star pattern and there is either an indent or "half moon" mark on one of the points. I'll get a snapshot if needed to clarify.
With my loss of use of key entry, my alarm has gone off and the car has been immobilized. I bought the car used years ago and never received a fob. I wasn't even aware that I had an alarm until I replaced my car battery. The Volvo guy says the only way to reset the alarm is through the driver's door. He also assured me that there is no max number of alarms before the car is permanently immobilized. I found differing info on the alarm from different sites, so wanted to confirm this with Volvo. For instance, access through trunk lock... Anyone have any conflicting info?
So, in summary, I'm going to get that damn door handle to seat properly or I'm going to have to get the car towed to a mechanic to finish my job.
Thanks for any help you folks can provide.
Roger
Can some send me a PDFs of door lock 2000 v70 . Driver door unable to unlock fro inside or out with key. [email protected] my wife is driving me crazy because she has to slide out passenger side. Able to get part of door open, but stil trying to diagnose
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