Replacing Climate Control Unit

mecheng81 · Post by **mecheng81** » 15 May 2011, 16:03

I know this is an old post, but I have encountered a similar problem with my 2001 V70 T5 (Manual Shift). Please consider (and answer) the following:

1. From online research, it seems that these Climate Control Modules are very sensitive to electrical circuit spikes and expire often...one account said that jumping another vehicle off destroyed theirs. I replaced my Boost Pressure Sensor yesterday and did not have the key in Position II when I reconnected the negative cable. I noticed the ECC problem after this. Is my not having the key in the correct position to blame for the failure or are they just uber-susceptible to battery reconnection? If I replace the unit and from now on have the key in Position II to reconnect the battery, will it be safe?

2. I understand that I need the same part number if I buy a used model. I need part # 9452369 for my car. When I look online, however, none of the models with that part # have the exact same configuration of buttons at the bottom (STC, etc.) If I order one with different buttons and/or the STC button (the only one on my unit aside from 2 blanks) in a different spot, can I simply blank all the unnecessary spaces and place the STC button in the spot where my current STC button is located?

3. Is reload part # 9494717 (as mentioned above by VCA) correct for my car also? If not, can someone tell me how to find the correct part number for the reload for my car? I have VADIS, but under the ECC software section, the hyperlinks do not work.

I am terribly frustrated as I have had to spend thousands of dollars in upkeep (most of that was doing the work myself) since purchasing my car in Nov. 2008 and want for it to be reliable, yet it seems to be one issue right after the other. I love the car but need a break for a while with no major failures!

Nevertheless, I am trying to avoid spending the estimated $1,200 or so with the dealer by doing this mostly myself if possible. Any answers to the above questions are greatly appreciated.

BTW: This is my first time post, I find the site to be very valuable, was able to repair my auto darkening rear view mirror myself thanks to the wonderful instructions on MVS for only $75...Donation on the way!

Post by **VCA** » 16 May 2011, 04:19

mecheng81 wrote:Is my not having the key in the correct position to blame for the failure or are they just uber-susceptible to battery reconnection? If I replace the unit and from now on have the key in Position II to reconnect the battery, will it be safe?

Quite possibly. Have you attempted undoing and redoing the battery cable connection the right way? Even if the ECC isn't behaving now, a battery reset the correct way might fix it.

mecheng81 wrote:When I look online, however, none of the models with that part # have the exact same configuration of buttons at the bottom (STC, etc.) If I order one with different buttons and/or the STC button (the only one on my unit aside from 2 blanks) in a different spot, can I simply blank all the unnecessary spaces and place the STC button in the spot where my current STC button is located?

Unless I've been misinformed on the car configuration information that the CCM has, if you buy a used CCM, the buttons must be exactly the same (order shouldn't matter). Otherwise, you could get trouble codes for subsystems that don't exist on your car.

mecheng81 wrote:3. Is reload part # 9494717 (as mentioned above by VCA) correct for my car also? If not, can someone tell me how to find the correct part number for the reload for my car?

Nope, it's 9438292 (E.C.C. Fahrenheit). I've since learned that reload part numbers aren't that important since VIDA will automatically select the correct reload part number by VIN.

Post by **jimmy57** » 16 May 2011, 07:27

The reason for having ignition in pos II during battery connect is for SRS servicing. If you did something wrong during SRS repairs then you are hooking up battery in a place where deploying airbags cannot hit you. That is it. This procedure is not necessary if the repairs did not involve SRS system or had no risk of involving SRS wiring. Having key in pos II has no other purpose for protecting control modules.
Do what VCA said and disconnect neg cable and touch it pos cable for a few seconds to discharge capacitors in modules so they re-start completely. Some of the control modules on these cars are more sensitive to surges and fumbling the neg cable when hooking up the battery, ESPECIALLY IF KEY IS IN POS II, can take some offline. The module will stay offline if the battery touch process is not done or if the battery cable is not left disconnected for more than 24 hours so the offline status is "forgotten".

Post by **VCA** » 16 May 2011, 11:31

jimmy57 wrote:The reason for having ignition in pos II during battery connect is for SRS servicing. If you did something wrong during SRS repairs then you are hooking up battery in a place where deploying airbags cannot hit you. That is it. This procedure is not necessary if the repairs did not involve SRS system or had no risk of involving SRS wiring.

I respectfully disagree. VIDA states that the reconnecting battery with key in II is required *any time* the battery is disconnected (that's including the totally underhood procedure of changing the battery, which doesn't involve SRS in any way) to ensure that the networks on the P80 (CAN bus equipped), P1 and P2 cars initialize properly. It is not required for the P3s, because the CEM controls all ignition functions and power functions in the vehicle.

mecheng81 · Post by **mecheng81** » 17 May 2011, 17:56

Thanks to both of you for the input. I had already attempted the correct battery connection method before posting, to no avail. Using a multimeter, I did some voltage and continuity checking and found all fuses good and 12V being applied to (one of) the rear plugs on the ECC. This led me to believe that the unit was faulty. VCA: I shall take your advice and have the key in Pos II for all battery connections in the future if for no other reason that I am simply a rule follower.

I did find a local specialty shop where I (surprisingly) discovered the following:
1. They (service manager and technician) were very courteous and listened to my technical input without berating me.
2. They were "all about" finding me a used unit and said they do the repair frequently with used units.
3. They were transparent in all business respects and are charging me (including parts) what I consider a fair price of $350. This is worth it to me as they have VIDA and are assuming liability for the programming and compatibility of parts. I also understand the need to pay for technical expertise in some situations.

They were very complementary of my vehicle (2001 Silver V70 T5 with 5 Speed Manual Shift) and of the work that I have performed myself to date.

Thanks so much for the help and I will post a follow-up when the repair is completed.

Post by **VCA** » 19 May 2011, 05:59

I owe the forum a partial retraction of my statement. VIDA does not state that it is required for proper network initialization (simply for safety), that appears to have a been a merger of what we learned from a CAN/LIN project I worked on (in which some cars that didn't provide power to LIN nodes with the key in 0 would post missing module DTCs and have improper functionality) and the specification that the key be in II so that you don't get a face full of airbag. Special thanks to jimmy57 and my contact at a large automotive OEM/ODM for setting me straight.

Fmcmanus · Post by **Fmcmanus** » 08 Jan 2016, 10:05

old post but thought I would add my .02. New radio installer did something to fry temp control. tried re soldering new team sensor still dead. went to junk yard pulled exact same part number unit ,however it was missing 2 of the option buttons ,valet and head rest drop also srs button in wrong place. unit works fine even srs. plug and play. Now I'm trying to find same part number with all 3 option buttons. Its like looking for a unicorn. 94523369 .
good luck

Post by **doublebug** » 08 Jan 2016, 11:41

you can just put missing buttons from the old unit.
Front panel that covers them can be easily removed.
So if necessary you can put old panel too.

timxc70 · Post by **timxc70** » 15 Feb 2016, 11:06

Hi. Sorry if this post is in the wrong place. I need help with climate control on 2004 xc70. It seems there are some clever people reading this thread.
Following a battery change all lights and buttons on the climate control panel work fine but I am only getting air from the central and side vents. Floor and screen remain closed whatever I do. Also, the air is cold. I assume dampers are shut apart from in the central area. The blower works fine. The system goes straight to auto as soon as I turn on the car irrespective of the setting it was on last time the car was on. Is there a fix? Will a second hand module with the same number fix it?

Many thanks.

timxc70 · Post by **timxc70** » 16 Feb 2016, 06:18

I have 2004 xc70. Climate control got stuck in what seemed to be a default mode after a battery change. Only cold air and only through the cabin vents, not the footwell or screen vents. Blower worked fine. I bought a control panel from ebay for £20. Fitted today with the battery disconnected. No reprogramming or fault code clearing needed. Works perfectly.

Replacing Climate Control Unit

Re: Replacing Climate Control Unit