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Hood Latch Issues

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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MadeInJapan
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Re: Hood Latch Issues

Post by MadeInJapan »

instarx wrote:I used a rubber piece I cut from an old oil cap gasket - so the car is still 100% Volvo! :)
:mrgreen:
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

arnabio
Posts: 33
Joined: 29 November 2010
Year and Model: 1999 V70XC
Location: Denver, CO/Bostom, MA

Post by arnabio »

Sorry to dig up and old thread, but I figured this would be better than making a whole new topic.

I have been having the hood-pull-not-opening-the-drivers-side-latch issue. Initially, I googled my problem and found a how-to for adjusting the hood pull within the cabin. A broken hood release and painstaking replacement of the cable later I find myself with the same problem.

I then stumbled upon this and realized that I am indeed missing the rubber bumper on the hood at the front and believe that may be the core of my issue.

My question: As I see it, there are two (three?) options. Which do you all think is the best:

1. Adjust the bracket on the drivers side down a few millimeters so that it releases even in the absence of the bumper.

2. Replace the bumper. This is my inclination, but I am having trouble finding the part listed anywhere.

(3. Try and "fabricate" a new bumper. From what, I'm not really sure but suggestions would be greatly appreciated.)

Thanks for your input!

-Aaron
1999 XC70 with 79K

Oh, and if anyone ever has the cable snap on them and goes to a dealer, they may get a bigger part than is necessary, as I did. I got the entire grommet pass-through for the firewall in addition to the cable. I decided to replace the entire pass through. I haven't seen a write up for this, but I've got a couple of quick tips for it:
1. Put the grommet in from the engine bay into the passenger cabin
2. Lube the end of the grommet that goes through or it will NOT fit.
3. Move the fuse box out of the way, it will give you better access to the hole in the firewall.

VolvoTurbo850
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Post by VolvoTurbo850 »

Let you tell you my solution for sticking hinges.

It involves buying airline or sail cable (stainless steel rope basically) and the ties. I actually connect one to each of the locks .. so when you pull them they release the latch. I sneak them trough the headlights so they are concealed. Anytime the latch gets stuck.. i just pull them out and tug...voila.

I know some of you are saying that leaves the possibility of unauthorized people opening it up, but the hassle of a unopened hood outweighs someone stealing parts from my engine on my 12+ year old car.

The fastest way to remove a stuck latch is though the corner lights.

As for your question, you should adjust it. If needed i think you should look at going to a junk yard and take one off.. there are similar bumpers on other cars or even on the back hatch of your Volvo.

The other thing quite common is that the hood itself is out of alignment. So you should make sure that is also not the case as it would lead to the locks not opening too.

The Fleet

2001 V70 (NA) 2.5
1999 C70 Conv. Turbo 2.3 HPT
1998 S70 Turbo (T5) SE
1994 850 Turbo (T5)
1980 Corvette (Corvolvo)

Previous Possessions: (4) 240's, (1) 740, (9) 850's, (5) 70 Series
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holler1
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Location: West Virginia

Post by holler1 »

VolvoTurbo850 wrote:Let you tell you my solution for sticking hinges.

It involves buying airline or sail cable (stainless steel rope basically) and the ties. I actually connect one to each of the locks .. so when you pull them they release the latch. I sneak them trough the headlights so they are concealed. Anytime the latch gets stuck.. i just pull them out and tug...voila.
I did the same thing, but just have one on the driver's side that frees both locks. I adjusted the wire so that i can flip it under the edge of the hood where it isn't visible, and flip it out to pull. It's actually more convenient when checking oil etc. This was after I was locked out and had to get the hood open with a hacksaw. I don't ever want to do that again.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---

VolvoTurbo850
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Post by VolvoTurbo850 »

great minds think alike... or fools seldom differ? haha

The Fleet

2001 V70 (NA) 2.5
1999 C70 Conv. Turbo 2.3 HPT
1998 S70 Turbo (T5) SE
1994 850 Turbo (T5)
1980 Corvette (Corvolvo)

Previous Possessions: (4) 240's, (1) 740, (9) 850's, (5) 70 Series
Projects on the go: NONE... Yet!

arnabio
Posts: 33
Joined: 29 November 2010
Year and Model: 1999 V70XC
Location: Denver, CO/Bostom, MA

Post by arnabio »

While I had read about this and was planning to make myself an emergency release so as to avoid the scary hacksaw story below, I still would like to retain the functionality of my hood pull in the car. I've only had the car for a few thousand miles and for whatever reason I'm not yet prepared to start "customizing" my car in such ways.

I'm sure it'll come with a few thousand more miles, but right now the car is new to me. Any ideas on my original question about whether to drop the driver's side hood release or to try and find/make a new rubber bumper on the inside of the hood?

Thanks for the quick responses,

Aaron
VolvoTurbo850 wrote:Let you tell you my solution for sticking hinges.

It involves buying airline or sail cable (stainless steel rope basically) and the ties. I actually connect one to each of the locks .. so when you pull them they release the latch. I sneak them trough the headlights so they are concealed. Anytime the latch gets stuck.. i just pull them out and tug...voila.

I know some of you are saying that leaves the possibility of unauthorized people opening it up, but the hassle of a unopened hood outweighs someone stealing parts from my engine on my 12+ year old car.

The fastest way to remove a stuck latch is though the corner lights.

As for your question, you should adjust it. If needed i think you should look at going to a junk yard and take one off.. there are similar bumpers on other cars or even on the back hatch of your Volvo.

The other thing quite common is that the hood itself is out of alignment. So you should make sure that is also not the case as it would lead to the locks not opening too.

Retired MVS Contributor

Post by Retired MVS Contributor »

Eventually the release cable stretches and no longer moves far enough to release...There is an adjustment for this at the release lever next to the drivers left knee...The OUTER JACKET of the release cable is the thing that needs to be adjusted, moving it outward away from the release lever...This has the effect of shortening the center core cable...

I have seen it and looked for it, but now I cannot find it...Somewhere in Vadis this issue is addressed for replacing a broken cable...A rigid wire tool (a coat hanger would work) is snaked up from under the front bumper on the driver's side and is hooked into the release lever...The lever has a hole for this purpose so I think I will use some aircraft cable and install a pull with a loop on it, hanging down behind the front bumper...Just in case... :)

Jerry

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instarx
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Post by instarx »

arnabio wrote:I'm sure it'll come with a few thousand more miles, but right now the car is new to me. Any ideas on my original question about whether to drop the driver's side hood release or to try and find/make a new rubber bumper on the inside of the hood?
Maybe this is too obvious, but have you considered going to a dealer and simply buying a new rubber bump pad?
2011 XC70 T6 - current
2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia Q2 - Totaled in 2022. Not my fault.
2011 XC60 - sold
2000 V70XC - given to a friend, wish I still had it.

holler1
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Joined: 25 June 2008
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Location: West Virginia

Post by holler1 »

Any ideas on my original question about whether to drop the driver's side hood release or to try and find/make a new rubber bumper on the inside of the hood?
Sorry, sometimes we forget about the original question. I suggest replacing the bumper. You can probably find one at a recycler or dealer.

In an emergency, at least on a non-turbo, I've read that you can reach up from below the engine and release the latch. That didn't work on my AWD car because of all the turbo and air pump stuff hanging under the engine. So after the hacksaw incident, I added emergency releases (bike cables) hanging down from both latches.
great minds think alike... or fools seldom differ? haha
Most likely the latter, at least in my case. I usually have a backup plan for the backup plan.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---

VolvoTurbo850
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Joined: 26 April 2010
Year and Model: 1994 850 (T5)
Location: Toronto, Canada
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Post by VolvoTurbo850 »

i also responded about the bumper. Few of my cars were missing the bumper altogether. What you will notice when it is gone that when driving highway speeds the hood will move up and down vertically or horizontally because of crosswinds. It will also keep those pressures off your hood latch itself.

By the way this is not a customization. In the end you will find that this is a lot less work than running the cables only to find that they will fail for one reason or the other. I say it is more preventive mechanical!

The Fleet

2001 V70 (NA) 2.5
1999 C70 Conv. Turbo 2.3 HPT
1998 S70 Turbo (T5) SE
1994 850 Turbo (T5)
1980 Corvette (Corvolvo)

Previous Possessions: (4) 240's, (1) 740, (9) 850's, (5) 70 Series
Projects on the go: NONE... Yet!

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