no one told me!

[mmgibson]

Thanks for the reponse guys,

I tried the socket and hammer thing, the metal seemed very light and didn't budge a bit... all I managed to do was get very frustrated....
I already ordered the complete control arms....

I really hope replacing all of this solves the vibration in the front end under braking... I put everything back together for a short test drive... I am still getting the vibration under braking... I hope that the new control arm is the answer...

One tip for anyone doing the Hubs, when you are removing the 10mm bolt holding the ABS sensor.. USE GREAT CAUTION go very slow... the drivers side bolt broke flush on mine... I am going to have to drill a hole, thread it, and put in a new bolt... I had the bolt turning free and was turning it out and SNAP!!! I was removing it so that i could wire brush the area... it was very rusty and needed cleaned before installing new hubs..

I have read that you need to torque the bushing bolts down once the car is at RIDE HEIGHT ONLY...

the only way I can think of doing this is installing them basicly loose... lowering the car... then putting a floor jack under the control arm lifting the wheel off the ground to remove it then torqueing them to spec... Is this the correct procedure???

The way I did (may not be the right way), is to jack the side to "ride high" without lowing the car, since I had swaybar end links disconnected. It would be easier use two jacks to get both side up without disconnecting the end links.

Confused_al .... I am confused.... I was talking about the how to torque down the control arm bushing bolts correctly, without damaging new bushings...
what are you meaning by disconnecting the swaybar end links???
can you explain this a little more?

[confused_al]

Confused_al .... I am confused.... I was talking about the how to torque down the control arm bushing bolts correctly, without damaging new bushings...
what are you meaning by disconnecting the swaybar end links???
can you explain this a little more?

Do you mean the control arm to the subframe?
With the swaybar connected, it puts a lot stress on the bar if only one side is jacked up and the other one hanging in the air. Not to mention its a lot harder to get "ride height" because of the swaybar sprinting to the other direction.
Does that make sense? If not dont worry about it, you need disconnect the link to replace tie-rods anyway, torque the control arm while you are there.

[mmgibson]

Humm well yes, I do mean the control arm to the subframe.. (See photo above marked C and circled)
this is the bushing that I have read several places that should only be tightened at ride height... they say otherwise it will put to much tension on the bushing....
the tie rod is marked A and circled
the swaybar is marked B and circled in the photo... Correct?

You are saying with the swaybar connected it puts a lot of stress to jack up one side... Right? Even if you jack up one side with the factory bracket between the front and rear door?

Heres what I intend on doing...
Jack up and set front of car on jack stands.
Change out control arms, tighten control arm to subframe bushing nuts lightly on each side.
Lower car off jack stands.
Slide jack under control arm just inside of ball joint, lift tire off the ground.
Remove tire and torque the control arm to subframe bushing down tight to 51 ft-lbs.. then an additional 120 degrees....
Then test drive..
Does this sound ok? or is there something different I should do?


I do not have a degree wrench yet... is there away around this..?

Also my Haynes Manual shows them using a Balljoint separator to remove the tie rod end (A in photo). Is there a trick for popping this loose if you don't have a balljoint separator? Or should I pick one of these up before the job?

Thanks for all your help.
Matt

[confused_al]

the swaybar is marked B and circled in the photo... Correct?

The sway bar is the thick one (U shape steel rod on the right of your pic), the skinny one connected to the strut is the sway bar link by which the sway bar connected to both sides.

Change out control arms, tighten control arm to subframe bushing nuts lightly on each side.
Lower car off jack stands.
Slide jack under control arm just inside of ball joint, lift tire off the ground.
Remove tire and torque the control arm to subframe bushing down tight to 51 ft-lbs.. then an additional 120 degrees....

I left car on jack stands, then jacked up the new control arm at wheel side (use a small piece of wood for protection), right under where control arm connected to the knuckle . At an estimated "ride height" I then torqued the number and with approximately 120 deg.

Also my Haynes Manual shows them using a Balljoint separator to remove the tie rod end (A in photo). Is there a trick for popping this loose if you don't have a balljoint separator? Or should I pick one of these up before the job?

Yup, that will make your life easier.

Then test drive..
Does this sound ok? or is there something different I should do?

After you tie-rods replacement, drive to a shop get alignment done.

[mmgibson]

ok I understand which one you are reffering to now...
sorry I'm a little dense..

That is a great idea.. I will try leaving it on the stands to torque.. that sure would be a lot simpler...

and I will pick up a balljoint separator.. I am sure that will make things much easier and faster...

I can't wait to get the parts and get this done so I can get an alignment... everything I do seems to make things a little better..

I am thinking of my next project.. the speedo gear...!!

Thanks guys I will let you know how it turns out..

[HoldenS6]

Thanks to all ... terrific thread on replacing control arms. Confused_Al's posting of the pics from VolvoSpeed were very helpful.
I had already replaced the right side inner and outer rod ends (don't ask) to get rid of play that caused a state inspection failure .. guess what, it was the ball joint. I replaced control arms on both sides in a little over 1.5 hours because of all of the above work and instructions on this post ...
I also used the suggestion of leaving the ball joint attached until the frame side bolts were removed and it came out after a couple of medium taps with a large ballpeen (96 GLT 80K+). I did however torque everything in the "service" position. I don't see how over time @ 51ft lbs there will be undue stress on those inner bushings .. that's my lame excuse for missing that point.

[mmgibson]

Agreed...
Everyones help here has been invaluable...

HoldenS6, You know now I am going to have to try and beat your time of 1.5 hrs to put on new control arms when they get here...!!!!!! Just joking...

I agree, I really don't understand the mechanics of needing to torque the control arm to frame bushings at road height... but I assume that once the bushings are torqued to 51 ft lbs and 120degrees, that the bracket that the bushings fit into grabs the bushing bolt sleeve... if you tighten at "service" position... then lower, it would keep the bushings in a twist, causing additional stress and wear

This is my assumption.... someone let me know if I am correct or not...
Because of my assumption.. I am going to try and torque at road height..

[Ozark Lee]

This is my assumption.... someone let me know if I am correct or not...

You are correct and torquing them down at or near normal ride height is very important unless you just enjoy changing control arms.

...Lee

[Cossack]

**** apologies, I just noticed this is an 850 thread. I will re-post in the S60 section********

Hey Everybody

I just started changing both control arms on my '02 S60. The instructions in this thread have been very useful so far and I have the left one removed. I have also replace the ball joint.

I am however having a hell of a time putting the new arm in. The back (horizontal) bushing in particular appears as if it will be a challenge to get in place...I tried jacking up the strut/disk assembly to help with alignment but without the control arm in place it slides out and wants to fall of the jack.... Should I remove the sway bar link for better access? Is this a two-person job??

Another concern I have is that with all this movement on the strut, the driveshaft may have come out. How do I make sure it is back in properly?

If some of you did this in 1.5 hours, I must be missing something.... Thanks for the help in advance.