S60 No Pedal after Changing pads & rotors

[JDS60R]

Yes - I have seen rusted out boosters that strech when you press the brake pedal. Its rare but they can rust out. its unlikely but you have to clarify that you are transfering the mechnial pressure from your foot to the MC. If the booster is split or your MC bolts are stripped you may have good brakes but no way to actuate them. When you turn on the car you are getting greater assistance from the booster. If you can press on the pedal with the car on and see that the MC does not move then you know you are transferring the force from your foot to the MC.

Next,

Be sure you don't have a leak anywhere by installing a pressure bleeder to the MC and checking all connections of the brake system.

If not , then

The syringe reverse bleed is done when problems like this won't go away. (Its a pressure bleeder pushing from the caliper bleed nipple -so bubbles in the brake fluid can rise -which is what they do best.)

Buy a large syringe at an animal feed store like Tractor supply.(or see note blow)
Buy a foot of clear vinyl tubing to fit the syringe and the brake caliper nipple.
Assemble vinyl line to syringe.
Fill syringe with brake fluid.
Open caliper bleed nipple and attach brake fluid filled syring to bleed nipple by way of the tube.
Take some brake fluid out of the MC so you don't overflow.
Push on syringe and watch bubbles come up to the MC.
Once bubbles are gone go to next wheel.

I have a garden sprayer rigged to fit a brake caliper bleed nipple so I can run pressurized fluid up to the mc. I got tired of the indentation the syringe end made in my hand. The garden sprayer was only $10 and I've been using it for 7 years now. You may be able to use you current pressure bleeder with an adapter to fit this purpose. There are little brass connectors in the plumbing dept of Lowes that work great to go from the big hose to one that will fit the bleed nipple. They sell clear vinyl hose there as well.

[S60 Blues]

I can easily adapt my pressure bleeder to work at the calipers. I also have enough hose that I can watch the master as I
back-pressurize the system. Is there any chance of damaging the ABS unit or any of the other braking components with this technique?
I am certain that pressurize the system, by compressing the caliper pistons with the cap on the master, is what caused my troubles. As I stated the brakes were fine prior to the installation of new pads and rotor and after inspecting the calipers yesterday I would bet on it.

I'll look at the booster but it sounds like a long shot in this case. I believe I was watching it when I had my buddy foot pumping, but I appreciate that t you pointed it out as a possible cause.

[JDS60R]

Is there any chance of damaging the ABS unit or any of the other braking components with this technique?

Minimal chance- you have cleaned out the contaminanats I spoke of before. You can always pressure bleed again just to be sure

I am certain that pressurize the system, by compressing the caliper pistons with the cap on the master, is what caused my troubles. As I stated the brakes were fine prior to the installation of new pads and rotor and after inspecting the calipers yesterday I would bet on it.

Possible but rare - Not to worry though - if you leak tested like I suggested and do a proper bleed you will be fine.

I'll look at the booster but it sounds like a long shot in this case. I believe I was watching it when I had my buddy foot pumping, but I appreciate that t you pointed it out as a possible cause.

Agreed - definitely a long shot but always rule it out - Good Idea

[S60 Blues]

So the good news is the S60 on the road and rolling again. After numerous hours researching and looking at forums, two maybe three days of pumping and bleeding, changing out the master not just once but twice it came down to a basic oversight. Yes, I did have one of the caliper spring installed wrong. A real mechanic friend came over and he spotted it on the first wheel he looked at

So I had the flat on the inside rather than the outside. I then assumed I had them all improperly installed, but it was only one. I don't know how I missed it. I even printed out photos of properly installed springs. One of these day I'll post a photo so the next fifty guys who have the same problem will understand what a improperly installed spring looks like.

I want to thank all of you for your help. Ron White is right, " You Just Can't Fix Stupid!

[JDS60R]

Glad to hear its fixed

Props to JDA2000 on the diagnosis

[E170_Driver]

S60 Blues,

just got done changing my brake pads including having the rotors turned and guess what, exactly the same problem as you. The brake pedal went almost to the floor board and braking was very weak. I checked everything from calipers to brake lines and even bled the entire brake fluid system.
Your post is exactly the reason why I love this website and makes a potential expensive situation to nothing more than making sure the springs on the calipers are attached CORRECTLY.

Here is how NOT to install the spring...



INCORRECTLY INSTALLED



CORRECTLY INSTALLED




After installing the springs correctly the pedal travel was back to normal and braking was the way it is supposed to feel.

Once again, sorry that you had to go though the painful process S60 Blues, but you helped me a TON. This ought to be put into the Repair Database for possible trouble shooting of incorrect brake pedal travel after replacing pads and rotors.

Jan

[matthew1]

Very nice, Jan. Adding to Repair Database.

[jda2000]

Hey Jan,

thanks for the pictures

[E170_Driver]

Hey Jan,

thanks for the pictures

No problem, I love taken them pictures especially when I correct my mistakes...everybody learns.

Take care,

Jan

[Stacy]

great post helped me on my s80 as well