I had an 87 Volvo 760 turbo that did the same thing and I replaced all the parts...fuel filter, pump, etc., only to discover that it was the electrical connector that went to the injectors. It is located on the drivers side of the engine compartment about 1/2 way between the front of the car and the firewall. The connector had worn out over the years and the spade connectors would just come loose enough to kill the engine. You can verify this by using a light connected to your injectors electrical connection and see if it is getting power. Good luck.
Phil
89 Volvo 740 Random Stalls Ignition Failure
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
89 Volvo 740 Random Stalls Ignition Failure
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Guest
Thanks PhilVolvo Phil wrote:I had an 87 Volvo 760 turbo that did the same thing and I replaced all the parts...fuel filter, pump, etc., only to discover that it was the electrical connector that went to the injectors. It is located on the drivers side of the engine compartment about 1/2 way between the front of the car and the firewall. The connector had worn out over the years and the spade connectors would just come loose enough to kill the engine. You can verify this by using a light connected to your injectors electrical connection and see if it is getting power. Good luck.
Phil
Replace your Speed sencerjust put a used one on it for arounfd 50.00 bucks at a volvo shop not a Volvo dealed...
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NRK
Do the basic (and cheap) things first!
1) Check every vaccum line. If any have cracks, feel soft & gummy, or 90 degree kinks replace them. If the line is not tight, i.e. the line turns easy on the nipple, replace the line. If it still turns use a hose clamp, or if you are cheap do the three wire wrap and twist tight. The adaptors on top of the engine that go from large to small lines are Volvo only but the rest of the lines are shop-stock, available at any auto parts store.
2) Clean your battery teminals and grounds to the frame and engine. Use dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion when you are putting it all back together. http://brickboard.com/ARCHIVES/1998JAN/7808.shtml
3) Get the gaskets for the throttle body and TSP and clean them. Some folks say to scrape and wire brush the passageways. I would not. Use a good cleaner (talk to your auto parts store) and at most some crocus cloth.
4) Clean and gap your spark plugs. If any wires are cracked or show heat deterioration they need to be changed, and then look at the cap and rotor.
These four items will cure a host of ills and cost $10-20 with stuff left over for the next time or you are fixing your friends Volvo and impressing them with your skill.
If this doesn't work then you have some much deeper diagnosis to do.
NRK
1) Check every vaccum line. If any have cracks, feel soft & gummy, or 90 degree kinks replace them. If the line is not tight, i.e. the line turns easy on the nipple, replace the line. If it still turns use a hose clamp, or if you are cheap do the three wire wrap and twist tight. The adaptors on top of the engine that go from large to small lines are Volvo only but the rest of the lines are shop-stock, available at any auto parts store.
2) Clean your battery teminals and grounds to the frame and engine. Use dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion when you are putting it all back together. http://brickboard.com/ARCHIVES/1998JAN/7808.shtml
3) Get the gaskets for the throttle body and TSP and clean them. Some folks say to scrape and wire brush the passageways. I would not. Use a good cleaner (talk to your auto parts store) and at most some crocus cloth.
4) Clean and gap your spark plugs. If any wires are cracked or show heat deterioration they need to be changed, and then look at the cap and rotor.
These four items will cure a host of ills and cost $10-20 with stuff left over for the next time or you are fixing your friends Volvo and impressing them with your skill.
If this doesn't work then you have some much deeper diagnosis to do.
NRK
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NateR
Thanks for you helpNRK wrote:Do the basic (and cheap) things first!
1) Check every vaccum line. If any have cracks, feel soft & gummy, or 90 degree kinks replace them. If the line is not tight, i.e. the line turns easy on the nipple, replace the line. If it still turns use a hose clamp, or if you are cheap do the three wire wrap and twist tight. The adaptors on top of the engine that go from large to small lines are Volvo only but the rest of the lines are shop-stock, available at any auto parts store.
2) Clean your battery teminals and grounds to the frame and engine. Use dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion when you are putting it all back together. http://brickboard.com/ARCHIVES/1998JAN/7808.shtml
3) Get the gaskets for the throttle body and TSP and clean them. Some folks say to scrape and wire brush the passageways. I would not. Use a good cleaner (talk to your auto parts store) and at most some crocus cloth.
4) Clean and gap your spark plugs. If any wires are cracked or show heat deterioration they need to be changed, and then look at the cap and rotor.
These four items will cure a host of ills and cost $10-20 with stuff left over for the next time or you are fixing your friends Volvo and impressing them with your skill.
If this doesn't work then you have some much deeper diagnosis to do.
NRK
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Guest
Check Fuel pump sometimes ceases up whe ... igpond.comdmf volvo freak wrote:Hi - I am having somewhat similar issues with my 88 760T wagon. So far it always starts back up and I experience strange erratic rpm on the tach when it is acting up. It sounds like from my research that we are both suffering from ignition issues particularly related to the hall sensor (88) or RPM sensor in the disrtibution (89 is RPM) , the potential for shorts in the wiring harness or bad connections in the ignition, and also a failed or fluky ignition power boost unit. Not that I am advicating radom changing of parts to find the bad one, but I picked up a ignition power boost with nothing but a screwdriver and $10 at the junk yard off a nice 9 series - same part number etc. I installed and yet to see if that solves, but if $10 gives me a 1 in 3, it is well worth it. Careful on the sensor connector on the back of the distributor, I may have just screwed that up sufficiently for me to think about replacing the distributor itself.
http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/ ... n%20System
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JDOConnell
I have a 1990 760 Turbo Wagon with the same problem. It usually stalls when the RPMs are low, e.g., idling at a traffic light or coasting on the highway.
Lately, it has been stalling once or twice PER DAY. Often, months go by without stalling and I think I've solved the problem. I just replaced the Ignition Control Module (located on the inside of the left front fender, just above the battery) but the stalling continues.
Other Volvo owners have told me they have the same problem. Is it possible this is a wide-spread problem such as the faulty Ignition Module that caused stalling in Fords in the last 1980s? (That was the subject of a class action lawsuit.)
This is a serious problem and I find it difficult to believe that Volvo is not aware of it, ...and knows the cause and solution.
Regards,
Jim O'Connell
Lately, it has been stalling once or twice PER DAY. Often, months go by without stalling and I think I've solved the problem. I just replaced the Ignition Control Module (located on the inside of the left front fender, just above the battery) but the stalling continues.
Other Volvo owners have told me they have the same problem. Is it possible this is a wide-spread problem such as the faulty Ignition Module that caused stalling in Fords in the last 1980s? (That was the subject of a class action lawsuit.)
This is a serious problem and I find it difficult to believe that Volvo is not aware of it, ...and knows the cause and solution.
Regards,
Jim O'Connell
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turbo no/go
- Posts: 48
- Joined: 30 November 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: texas
my '85 760 turbo also has stalling problems.sometimes 2-3 times a day,sometimes it will go a day or two and not do it.i've had the air mass meter,air intake hose,intank fuel pump(not the external one,i was told it was working by mechanic who tested it),fuel filter(twice),new plugs(twice in 7 months)new wires,air filter,and of course scheduled oil changes.the fuel pump relay has been tested along with the battery and alternator.the battery cables and terinals have been cleaned/replaced.i suspect something could be up with the charcoal canister,or at least the hoses connected to them.of the two hoses going from engine to canister,the top one is off due to the breaking of the plastic nipple it attaches to,and the bigger hose coming off the bottom is cut about 12in. down and leads nowhere.there are no other symptoms when it stalls,it just dies,rpm gauge goes directly to zero,as if all fuel flow has been quickly cut off.no spitting,smoking,backfiring.and it never immediatly starts back.i alwyas have to wait 2-5 minutes,and it starts normally and runs normal.somebody please help.i've been in 4 shops in 3 states and i'm out of cash. i'm supposed to be moving in january '06 (1700 miles) and really need to get it running right.any advice would be very helpful. 
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Graeme
I have had exactly the same problem as you describe it with my 1990 760 Turbo. Occasional stalling when at low RPM's, usually when turning a corner.JDOConnell wrote:I have a 1990 760 Turbo Wagon with the same problem. It usually stalls when the RPMs are low, e.g., idling at a traffic light or coasting on the highway.
Lately, it has been stalling once or twice PER DAY. Often, months go by without stalling and I think I've solved the problem. I just replaced the Ignition Control Module (located on the inside of the left front fender, just above the battery) but the stalling continues.
Other Volvo owners have told me they have the same problem. Is it possible this is a wide-spread problem such as the faulty Ignition Module that caused stalling in Fords in the last 1980s? (That was the subject of a class action lawsuit.)
This is a serious problem and I find it difficult to believe that Volvo is not aware of it, ...and knows the cause and solution.
Regards,
Jim O'Connell
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wojeepster
- Posts: 259
- Joined: 15 November 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Hendersonville, NC
most likely candidates hall pickup, fuel pump relay
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